IT's home use in a 3 story 5 bed Victorian house, planning a ceiling mount AP on the top floor and another on the bottom floor as my current TPLINK Mesh gives ok(ish)coverage in a similar configuration was looking at the U6 probably plus models as they look about the best bang for buck.
*** Official Ubiquiti Discussion Thread ***
- Thread starter RoyMi6
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I have just replaced 2x U6 plus with 2x U7 lites. The U7 are not a great deal more in terms of cost and offer better throughput and range (in my experience). Unless you were scanning the used market then you would get a good deal on the U6 plus.
I fancy swapping my G5 Turret from the driveway to the back garden and replacing it with a G6, got a Protect Floodlight to fit at the front as well.
I have installed the G6 turrets, decent cameras.
I was looking at the floodlight but I ended up using a smart plug with different lights and setting a webhook to unifis alert manager to trigger it on when it detects a person.
I've tried the whole smart stuff, it's never reliable enough for me.
Interesting, I am using a shelly plug. Unifi detects a person and pings the plug over the local network (nothing external), works flawlessly.
Im not into the smart home thing, just have a few plugs and wireless smoke alarm.
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I have dipped my toe into the Ubiquiti ecosystem and have a UDR7 arriving tomorrow. I fear this may be the start of an expensive habbit.
Will be replacing a Linksys Hydra MR5500 which is generally a POS. Not planning on adding any camera's this year but when we move house next I will add a G4 doorbell and likely a couple other external cameras.
Will be replacing a Linksys Hydra MR5500 which is generally a POS. Not planning on adding any camera's this year but when we move house next I will add a G4 doorbell and likely a couple other external cameras.
It's a nice money pit
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I'm seeing a big difference between port 5 (10 GbE RJ45) and port 7 (SFP+) on the CGF.
Speedtests on port 5 take a while to ramp up, and only reach around 700 Mbps. Whereas port 7 it hits max speed (~920 Mbps) straight away with no fuss.
I'd rather use port 5, as it means I don't need to use a module (they tend to get quite hot).
Speedtests on port 5 take a while to ramp up, and only reach around 700 Mbps. Whereas port 7 it hits max speed (~920 Mbps) straight away with no fuss.
I'd rather use port 5, as it means I don't need to use a module (they tend to get quite hot).
Hey - I didn't quite say cost is an issue, just that it adds up. You know, you look at all the little bits you need to make the perfect system and suddenly you're a grand in.
On cheap APs, are you suggesting cheap Ubiquiti ones or other brands? What attracted me to Ubiquiti most was the understanding (perhaps incorrect) that the way the handoff between APs was handled centrally by the gateway was impressive and meant devices are always connected to the best AP (not what my heath robinson Asus setup does - it stays connected to whatever AP until it loses that signal completely and then reconnects to what it can).So question is, do I need Ubiquiti APs or could I use my Asus router in AP mode on behalf of the UDR7 and get the best treatment?
If it's Ubiquiti I need, I think you just end up in the buy nice or buy twice argument. I don't need wifi7 outdoors as such (noting that I don't believe any outdoor-rated APs have 6Ghz) but could have an internal AP inside the outbuilding - speed more relevant as I have a TV down there which can be used for streaming from a media server in the house. There's a switch fed by a CAT5e cable however.
Whilst also brings me onto the CAT6 vs CAT6a point. I have an opportunity to pull the floors up whilst we're having new carpet fitted so wanted to get a decent bit of cable running around. Fully appreciate that I don't need CAT6a but since this is a one-and-done situation, whether there's any harm in a higher-spec cable. You never know what might be needed in the future, e.g. perhaps CAT6a will support 100gbe over shorter runs in 10 years time and it will be relevant!? So questions are more whether a) there's a downside and b) grounding is hard to do (using something like a Trendnet TC-P08C6AS which I can earth to the screw on the electrical faceplate). If it's a nonsense idea, CAT6 is fine as you say (F/UTP CAT6 is what I'm mostly seeing, which again I'm assuming doesn't need grounding)?
For completeness, the drop to the outbuilding is probably ~60m through plastic conduit, partly underground and partly overground. I might want to run POE devices over the network cable (low change, other than to APs).
Fair. I'll try and run the cable so that it'll pull through if I need it to.
I'll grab 100m off Kenable and just do the drops indoors for now (replacing the outdoor run can wait). U/UTP or F/UTP?
Yes just get Cat6. Easier to terminate. Wifi 7 is more than just the 6Ghz bands, eg MLO. If you are getting new AP I don’t think it’s worth getting wifi 5 and 6. The UniFi U7 Lite is fairly cheap but great bang for buck even without the 6GHz bands. In my house with brick walls, switching off the 6Ghz band on my U7 pro is achieves much faster transfer if there is a wall between the client and the AP.
Operation wire my switch in properly rather than sit it on top of the rack precariously (backwards so troubleshooting was hard) is complete. Only took 1.5 years to sort. I've separated the redundant wires as well. Want to change the patch cables already, maybe some Unifi flat ones along with a Flex 2.5G PoE and U7P XG.
Can you not patch panel a WAN cable? Only seemed to work direct in the SE.
Can you not patch panel a WAN cable? Only seemed to work direct in the SE.
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