LG OLED B7 clicking power board fault

Yeah my concern recently is that the tv is now complaining that it hasn’t run the pixel refresh process for too long. With it being OLED I imagine the panel is going to get messed up without this.
 
pioneer2000 said:
Yeah my concern recently is that the tv is now complaining that it hasn’t run the pixel refresh process for too long. With it being OLED I imagine the panel is going to get messed up without this.
Click to expand...
Yeah I get it but if I can get another one to two years out of it I'll feel I've just about had my monies worth and move on....
 
Hello everyone. Found this thread via google. My 7 year old LG OLED55B7D also started turning off randomly. When connecting to electrical socket, it made clicking noise repeatedly and sometimes after clicking for a while it managed to turn on, sometimes it didnt. It is that clicking noise when you initially connect the plug to the power socket (which normally clicks twice and then it is ready to be turned on), however sometimes it kept clicking 10 times or more until it turned on, sometimes it didn't turn on at all. Even when it managed to turn on, it didn't last for long and after a few minutes the TV turned itself off.

These symptoms suggested that the PSU board most likely had an issue, so I opened the back cover and inspected the power supply board. I couldnt find any bulging capacitors, burned spots or cracked solder joints on the back of the board. Since I don't have the skills and proper equippment to troubleshoot a PSU like that, I decided to buy a new one, which luckily I was able to find online for 210 Euros incl. shipping and it was a new original LG replacement part. After replacing the PSU board the TV now works again like new.

So the Power Supply failed after 13247 hours. It would have sucked big time, had I not been able to find a replacement power supply board and was forced to throw this thing away. Because aside of the PSU board, everything else works perfectly fine. Sure the oled panel degraded a little, but overall the tv still produces great image quality compared to any LCD TV, even the recent ones.

When I took the back cover off, I figured it was a good opportunity to dedust everything, which worked really well with a soft brush and a blower (Compu Cleaner) that I use to dedust my pc.

Anyways if you guys get the aforementioned issues with your OLED TVs, I suggest to consider replacing the power supply board. I payed ca. 210 euros for the psu board, but it saved me at least 750 euros which I would've payed for a 55C4 which was on sale for 960 euros incl. shipping. If the TV will last for another 3-4 years (or maybe even longer) after replacing the psu, that would be incredible value overall. Newer OLED tvs are more of an evolution, rather than a revolution like it was when switching from lcd to oled. Ideally I'd like to wait until LG releases their new RGB oled panel without the white subpixel, which would fix a few issues like white shadows / contours in dark scenes and which will introduce a boost to the image quality, before purchasing a new TV. Don't want to buy a Samsung qd-oled (which has RGB subpixel layout) because of the bad dark levels in brightly lit rooms, I think it is becasue samsung qd-oled panels don't have a polarizer and becasue of that the contrast (dark levels) take a hit and end up looking dark-greyish in brightly lit environment.






This is the place I got it from: https://fixpart.de/produkt/lg-eay64510701-versorgungsmodul-lcd-fernseher?apl=3651796
 
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Swift02 said:
Hello everyone. Found this thread via google. My 7 year old LG OLED55B7D also started turning off randomly. When connecting to electrical socket, it made clicking noise repeatedly and sometimes after clicking for a while it managed to turn on, sometimes it didnt. It is that clicking noise when you initially connect the plug to the power socket (which normally clicks twice and then it is ready to be turned on), however sometimes it kept clicking 10 times or more until it turned on, sometimes it didn't turn on at all. Even when it managed to turn on, it didn't last for long and after a few minutes the TV turned itself off.

These symptoms suggested that the PSU board most likely had an issue, so I opened the back cover and inspected the power supply board. I couldnt find any bulging capacitors, burned spots or cracked solder joints on the back of the board. Since I don't have the skills and proper equippment to troubleshoot a PSU like that, I decided to buy a new one, which luckily I was able to find online for 210 Euros incl. shipping and it was a new original LG replacement part. After replacing the PSU board the TV now works again like new.

So the Power Supply failed after 13247 hours. It would have sucked big time, had I not been able to find a replacement power supply board and was forced to throw this thing away. Because aside of the PSU board, everything else works perfectly fine. Sure the oled panel degraded a little, but overall the tv still produces great image quality compared to any LCD TV, even the recent ones.

When I took the back cover off, I figured it was a good opportunity to dedust everything, which worked really well with a soft brush and a blower (Compu Cleaner) that I use to dedust my pc.

Anyways if you guys get the aforementioned issues with your OLED TVs, I suggest to consider replacing the power supply board. I payed ca. 210 euros for the psu board, but it saved me at least 750 euros which I would've payed for a 55C4 which was on sale for 960 euros incl. shipping. If the TV will last for another 3-4 years (or maybe even longer) after replacing the psu, that would be incredible value overall. Newer OLED tvs are more of an evolution, rather than a revolution like it was when switching from lcd to oled. Ideally I'd like to wait until LG releases their new RGB oled panel without the white subpixel, which would fix a few issues like white shadows / contours in dark scenes and which will introduce a boost to the image quality, before purchasing a new TV. Don't want to buy a Samsung qd-oled (which has RGB subpixel layout) because of the bad dark levels in brightly lit rooms, I think it is becasue samsung qd-oled panels don't have a polarizer and becasue of that the contrast (dark levels) take a hit and end up looking dark-greyish in brightly lit environment.






This is the place I got it from: https://fixpart.de/produkt/lg-eay64510701-versorgungsmodul-lcd-fernseher?apl=3651796
Click to expand...

Had my b7 for 7 years, hoping it lasts, that board is nla in the UK version of that site. It's in stock on the German site.

Not sure if the German site delivers to the uk
 
@sx_turbo Not sure about that mate, you can ask their customer service. Yeah, the B7 still holds up really well today and it came out in 2017. I use it with an Nvidia Shield TV pro 2019 and it's a great combo.

My B7 even has a jailbreak installed, the main benefit of the jailbreak being the ability to install a modified Youtube app that has no ads, but the B7's SoC is so weak that even navigating within the app is laggy and slow, so it's not a pleasant experience with the native apps running on the B7. Hence the combination of the B7 and NV Shield TV Pro, which works really well.

I have another LG Oled - the 65CX, also jailbroken with a modified ad-free Youtube app, and the SoC on it is significantly faster than the one in the B7. However, it's still not as fast and snappy as the Shield TV pro, which is why it's also used with the Shield TV.
 
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tommylux said:
Hello, I'm wondering if this is the same part in my TV:
OLED65C9PLA.
Struggling to find some infomation on this.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
I wouldn't assume so - it's from a larger but two years newer model. But if you look close at the photos and compare to your board (especially the connectors) you may be in luck. Power supply boards can be slightly more flexible than logic boards.
 
It’s a good idea to replace the relay (G5RL-1AE-LN DC12), as it’s likely well beyond its rated actuation life. However, the more probable cause of the issue is one of the N-channel MOSFETs on the backside of the board.

Part number: STD13N60M2 — N-Channel MOSFET, 600V, 11A, 110W, TO-252 package.

Video reference:
 
Well I’ve now replaced the relay and all the mosfets, still the bloody thing clicks incessantly! Guess it’s a full new power board or the bin, which is a shame considering how expensive the set was back in the day. Reliability wise this LG oled has been woeful, worse than any TV I’ve ever owned.
 
LuckyBenski said:
How come? ~7 years and one fault, plus a preventative swap?
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I had the whole set swapped due to excessive screen burn, then LG swapped the power supply on recall when they were apparently setting on fire. Now the power supply has failed, no doubt because they cheaper out on the recall. So yes, probably 6/7 years but 2 sets and a replacement power supply and now it’s dead. Out of about 8 tvs I’ve probably owned over the years it’s only the OLED that’s become faulty.
 
Same issue here on a C7 (2018) and I had the board replaced by Currys as I had a line down the left side of the screen. Not happy that such expensive sets have issues like this and LG aren't willing to help. I've just contacted them so fingers crossed. I don't use the TV much as I don't watch daily. Surely this is their pinnacle technology so they should look to protect their reputation.

Also, there's a risk this could be a fire hazard so that's extra reason for them getting on top of it.

www.lg.com

Help library: [LG TV Sound] I can hear a clicking sound when I turn on/off the TV | LG UK

Help library: [LG TV Sound] I can hear a clicking sound when I turn on/off the TV Learn how to use, update, maintain and troubleshoot your LG devices and appliances.
www.lg.com www.lg.com
 
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