What have you done to your car today?
- Thread starter mattyprice4004
- Start date
I'm officially a masochist, bought another propshaft for £25 - same part number, the newer part is over £300... Bit steep for something that won't guarantee a fix.
I'm slowly thinking it's either the transfer case, diff or gearbox. The newer Guibo at the rear has made it worse, this car is so unthankful, throwing new parts at it and it keeps getting worse..
I'm slowly thinking it's either the transfer case, diff or gearbox. The newer Guibo at the rear has made it worse, this car is so unthankful, throwing new parts at it and it keeps getting worse..
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If he knew that he wouldn't be playing parts bingo
This, literally nothing is giving any symptoms that it's worn, no noises or anything...If he knew that he wouldn't be playing parts bingo
Yep...
Impreza Spec C arrived, looks so good, so excited. Came with a full owners wallet and service history, didnt expect it as was told it didnt have it. In the glove box, yas
Looks so good, Im very happy. Ordered service kits today, pump, belts etc as well as new tyres and all that
Looks so good, Im very happy. Ordered service kits today, pump, belts etc as well as new tyres and all that
I did some more troubleshooting today, put everything back together, I'm 90% sure its the Transfer Case at this point... There're two bearings which fail over time, the noise and symptoms check out too. Question is, do I...
- Reset the adaptation (Not sure, if it won't make it worse)
- Change the fluid and reset the adaptation (over 100k miles, I doubt it has been done before...)
- Get a 2nd hand lower mileage transfer case and switch it over. (Could have the exact same issue...)
- Get rid of it (My favourite option at this point)
- Reset the adaptation (Not sure, if it won't make it worse)
- Change the fluid and reset the adaptation (over 100k miles, I doubt it has been done before...)
- Get a 2nd hand lower mileage transfer case and switch it over. (Could have the exact same issue...)
- Get rid of it (My favourite option at this point)
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Soldato
- Joined
- 10 Oct 2006
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- 3,685
I'd be tempted to get rid of it, you could be chasing the issue for a long time it also might not be one problem it could be a combination of worn components.
You can use the cardboard insert from kitchen roll to isolate sounds. Or a screwdriver directly on the transfer case. That will tell you definitively where the noise is coming from.
If it's already noisy, it's probably too far gone. However, fresh fluid may help cover up the noise and then you can flog it. Or you tell them there's an issue with the transfer case and lose a lot of money. The choice is yours.
You could also take the chance with a used transfer case. That would be my last resort before the faff of flogging the car and finding a new one, personally.
I know this may sound really odd, but try rapidly going up and down the gears manually in a test drive. See if that has any effect on the noise.
That's the plan, I'm just curious to know what it is...
Only symptom is vibrations at higher speeds, also a bearing noise from the front (wheel bearings are fine).
Yeah, it ain't that simple in this piece of ***** German Engineering, TC failures are very common... One mechanic the car has been to, has removed the front propshaft, but that doesn't stop the clutch from engaging (bit of a pointless test imho..) considering the TC sits between the 8hp and Propshaft. Pulling fuse 32 and 63 is the only way to stop it completely from engaging but you lose DSC, ABS and the torque delivery is a bit On/Off.
There's a clutch pack inside that gets engaged when ignition is in on state (Fuse 32), the transfer case module (Fuse 63), there're bearings in the clutch pack mechanism that likes to fail. I'm guessing this is what's happening in mine.
To code out the XDrive, I've seen some people being sucessful with Esys, XDelete works but there're some complaints with the car being jerky and torque being On or Off instead of smooth ride.
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Soldato
- Joined
- 10 Oct 2006
- Posts
- 3,685
One thing that did jump out when you said it got better over 120mph that is the speed the clutch automatically disengages in the transfer box (if the internet is accurate)
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And I'm guessing it isn't as "simple" (probably the wrong word here! 
) as removing the transfer case, front diff and output shafts, fitting a RWD propshaft, gearbox mount, and a RWD gearbox ECU and then coding it? Front hubs are obviously different... If the reluctor rings for the ABS are on the output shafts then that would present another issue and you would need to change the hubs and maybe the spindles as well...
Probably not worth going there. I imagine it might cause issues insuring it too...
I'd try to confirm the issue with my ears and a "mechanics stethoscope" (big screwdriver, piece of fuel hose, etc) then fit a known good transfer case, then sell the car before any further issues arise.
) as removing the transfer case, front diff and output shafts, fitting a RWD propshaft, gearbox mount, and a RWD gearbox ECU and then coding it? Front hubs are obviously different... If the reluctor rings for the ABS are on the output shafts then that would present another issue and you would need to change the hubs and maybe the spindles as well...Probably not worth going there. I imagine it might cause issues insuring it too...
I'd try to confirm the issue with my ears and a "mechanics stethoscope" (big screwdriver, piece of fuel hose, etc) then fit a known good transfer case, then sell the car before any further issues arise.
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The thing is, in a faulty TC the clutch might not disengage completely.
Nothing is simple on this car, fuel filter change? You need to bleed the fuel system... You want to put it into neutral when engine is off? Lift car up, undo 20 screws, take a underbody cover off and screw a allen bolt in... Really?! Imagine doing this on a side of a busy motorway. lolAnd I'm guessing it isn't as "simple" (probably the wrong word here!
Probably not worth going there. I imagine it might cause issues insuring it too...
I'd try to confirm the issue with my ears and a "mechanics stethoscope" (big screwdriver, piece of fuel hose, etc) then fit a known good transfer case, then sell the car before any further issues arise.
I hate working on newER cars in general... The Germans seem to have made everything more complicated first though!
Even my Dads 2001 A6 is a complete pain in the arse to work on compared to anything from the 90's I've had.
Even my Dads 2001 A6 is a complete pain in the arse to work on compared to anything from the 90's I've had.
Get a 70s Cadillac and you could camp out in there too!
2001 isn't new lol, it's 24 years old, some 24 year olds are single mothers with kids from 2 different blokes.
Ok, so I've unplugged the transfer case first Fuse 32 to disengage the clutch 100%, then I did a test drive - nothing changed, so I pulled up to a car park, pulled the other fuse 63 out and once again nothing changed apart from a Christmas tree on the dash...
The first diagnostic on the car my dad received was that it's the rear diff, I'm starting to think that might actually be it... Thinking logically, at the front there's already an aluminium Guibo, at the rear there was a Rubber soft Guibo which was replaced with a brand new fresh firm Guibo which would amplify the vibrations. Is my thinking right?