How tough is network cable?

I'm putting keystone jacks at both ends as this was easier than trying to add an RJ45 plug. I suspect that I'm managing to nick the wires somehow despite my best (and many repeated!) efforts. What puzzles me is that it's always those two wires. All other connections test fine
 
If you are using a sheeth cutting tool it might be designed for thinner cat5e try using a pair of wire cutters then pulling the sheeth back and trimming it.

Odd that its the same wires, could one of the keystone jacks be damaged i.e bent the connector inside the socket shorting the pins?
 
NetMan said:
If you are using a sheeth cutting tool it might be designed for thinner cat5e try using a pair of wire cutters then pulling the sheeth back and trimming it.

Odd that its the same wires, could one of the keystone jacks be damaged i.e bent the connector inside the socket shorting the pins?
Click to expand...
I bought a new sheath cutter which has been far better at removing the cover and just the cover so I was disappointed to have the same issue with wires 1 and 2! I've been using various keystone jacks just in case but it's maybe time to try some more. It's a bit of a mystery...
 
can you manually check continutity with a multimeter and a suitable long length of wire, to eliminate the terminals. Can you also check the other connectors. I haven't seen them before is it somekind of inline connector ? Why the rj boot on the cable ?
 
Bluecube said:
Can’t check continuity as the ends are about 20m apart. What other connectors do you mean?
Click to expand...
use a 20m bit of cat 5 to loop back. Have someone take the brown wire and touch each wire at the far end. Then you use the multimeter at your end between the brown wire and each wire at the far end. You should only get continuity when you touch the wire that your helper is touching.

I'm talking about the photo of the thing you called a 'connector cap'. i don't know what that is. It's a weird looking rj45 or something ?
 
Last edited:
whitecrook said:
I'm talking about the photo of the thing you called a 'connector cap'. i don't know what that is. It's a weird looking rj45 or something ?
Click to expand...
Ignore that pic. The RJ45 boot is a remnant from a previous effort that I hadn't pulled off the cable. I can't actually remember what that "connector cap" is for now as I've been trying keystone jacks for a while
 
Bluecube said:
Ignore that pic. The RJ45 boot is a remnant from a previous effort that I hadn't pulled off the cable. I can't actually remember what that "connector cap" is for now as I've been trying keystone jacks for a while
Click to expand...
if you have a jack wired at the end, then you can wire a 20m bit of cat 5 with a plug. Check continuity on that, then plug it in to one end, take the unwired end to the other side and check continuity all through. Remember to check every pin against every other pin.
 
whitecrook said:
I'm talking about the photo of the thing you called a 'connector cap'. i don't know what that is. It's a weird looking rj45 or something ?
Click to expand...

Bluecube said:
I can't actually remember what that "connector cap" is
Click to expand...

I've never used them but isn't it a toolless RJ45 plug like this but designed for shielded cable:


It was wired incorrectly but thats irrelevant now it has been removed.



Bluecube said:
I've still not managed to get a connection with wires 1 and 2 repeatedly shorting
Click to expand...
Are you sure they are shorted is it possible you have got those two wires the wrong way round on one end and thats giving the error on your test tool?
 
Without access to high end test gear that can measure cable resistance and tell you the distance to the fault the best you are going to be able to do is test for continuity using a multimeter and a long piece of cable.

At this point the only other thing I can suggest to get it working is posting the area you live and asking if anyone lives near that has installed their own cabling so they can have a look at it for you.

Otherwise you will either have to pay someone to check it or pull it out and just replace it with a long pre terminated cable.
 
bledd said:
TRENDnet TC-PDT (punchdown tool), it comes with Krone and 110 punchdown types. CCS wall ports use 110.
Click to expand...

I think this is important and may have been overlooked. When I first started punching down ethernet I was trying to use a regular Krone tool, and was getting nowhere. Bought a TRENDnet TC-PDT and immediately everything was great.

OP, are you using standard krone tool?
 
Last edited:
The keystone jacks don’t require wires to be punched down. I’ve looked to see if any are available just in case they’re more reliable but not had any joy
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom