EV general discussion

b0rn2sk8 said:
Not sure I agree.

Having to press a button to proceed would be incredibly annoying in stop start traffic.
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Yes, to be fair it does get annoying at times, but still preferable to the car "suddenly lurching forward" because someone has forgotten* they've got adaptive cruise on.

Demon said:
Most implementations of stop/go allow 20-30 seconds stationary before requiring a manual intervention, doing it immediately sounds not that well thought out, on the basis stop/go systems are linked to safety, so if you make it inconvenient/unworkable people won't use them.

Note, Tesla keeps activated for a long time (I've never experienced it actually disengaging in any stop/go traffic) which I think could be improved..

Hell, I was driving a manual van the other day with adaptive cruise, it let you change down/up as needed without disengaging and I'm sure I wasn't dreaming when it (from my recollection) even allowed some trail braking when over speeding without disengaging the adaptive cruise, I actually remember being surprised when I took my foot off the throttle in some situations and it started speeding up after I'd changed gear and/or slightly braked.

This is why we need data across the industry, we have so many cars around that data should show what does/doesn't work and whose hypothesis are right/wrong..
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Agreed - probably somewhere in the middle would be the best, I don't recall regularly being stationary for more than 10-15 seconds.

That being said, I rarely drive in stop start traffic, so quite probably if I did more so then it would affect me more



* although arguably anyone who does this probably should take the bus...
 
b0rn2sk8 said:
Not sure I agree.

Having to press a button to proceed would be incredibly annoying in stop start traffic.
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Its ok its a real button on the wheel, not hidden in the menu next to the glovebox open.

In stop Start MEB ACC will wait I think 10 seconds to auto pull away then you need to press button or pedal to pull away in traffic. Nicely tuned PID too versus other systems.
 
Demon said:
FYI, With adaptive cruise control that has a stop/go feature I imagine many cases of 'my car suddenly lurched forward' are simply forgetting adaptive cruise is on and you are in a queue of traffic etc, get to the head of the queue and it suddenly shoots off..
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I'll give you another terrible example - when I first got my Seal and was learning all the "driver assists" and I enabled adaptive cruise control (ACC). This is how you set the maximum speed you wish to drive at but when the radar in front of the car detects a vehicle in front it will adapt your speed to that vehicle (and the length of the gap as desired). As I was driving with ACC on and set to 60-ish I caught up to traffic ahead and our speed reduced to 40-ish. The slight brown trouser moment was when the road changed to a reasonably twisty section and on sharpish right hand bend my car no longer detected the car in front, thought the road ahead was clear and fired forward. Thankfully I was in eco-mode and not sports mode with it's ridiculous electric car acceleration otherwise I might have been picking brambles.

Now I know the system's limitation.

Haggisman said:
Yes, to be fair it does get annoying at times, but still preferable to the car "suddenly lurching forward" because someone has forgotten* they've got adaptive cruise on.

* although arguably anyone who does this probably should take the bus...
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Fair comment but it does happen, especially on long journeys.

I don't like cruise control at the best of times. Anything that takes your foot of the accelerator so your foot is less active or increases your foot to brake reaction time, or makes you hover over the brake pedal, is bad imo. I much preferred setting the Limit function on the BMW where the car wouldn't go over the speed you set (unless you mashed the accelerator) but you still had to operate the accelerator to go or release it to slow down. Unfortunately the Seal doesn't have this Limit functionality and I miss it.
 
EddScott said:
Unfortunately, my IPace has thrown up the Traction Battery Fault. It stopped charging at a public charger at 88%. It complains every time I start it so isn't just a glitch. Booked in with JLR service centre on 12th for diagnosis.

Pre pivi 70 plate, 39K. I'm hoping it's the 12v batteries giving me duff info.
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You still running on that same 88% charge, or managed to get more juice in to it since the error message?

An Ipace is getting some serious consideration, but given it's a bit of an aging platform I'm unconvinced it's the right call - but the value for money is very tempting.
 
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My ACC was 3 seconds at stop before you had to press accelerator or RES on the wheel to resume. SOTA lifted that to 30seconds about 2 years ago.

Hopefully the 12V is the problem there rather than the H441 72% limit thanks to the dodgy LG cells.
 
Mysterae_ said:
I'll give you another terrible example - when I first got my Seal and was learning all the "driver assists" and I enabled adaptive cruise control (ACC). This is how you set the maximum speed you wish to drive at but when the radar in front of the car detects a vehicle in front it will adapt your speed to that vehicle (and the length of the gap as desired). As I was driving with ACC on and set to 60-ish I caught up to traffic ahead and our speed reduced to 40-ish. The slight brown trouser moment was when the road changed to a reasonably twisty section and on sharpish right hand bend my car no longer detected the car in front, thought the road ahead was clear and fired forward. Thankfully I was in eco-mode and not sports mode with it's ridiculous electric car acceleration otherwise I might have been picking brambles.

Now I know the system's limitation.



Fair comment but it does happen, especially on long journeys.

I don't like cruise control at the best of times. Anything that takes your foot of the accelerator so your foot is less active or increases your foot to brake reaction time, or makes you hover over the brake pedal, is bad imo. I much preferred setting the Limit function on the BMW where the car wouldn't go over the speed you set (unless you mashed the accelerator) but you still had to operate the accelerator to go or release it to slow down. Unfortunately the Seal doesn't have this Limit functionality and I miss it.
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To be honest, I'm not a massive of fan of adaptive cruise in the first place, if I've set CC to 70 it's because I want to be doing 70, not whatever speed the car in front is doing, and it's annoying having to constantly keep checking my speedo to see if they've slowed down and I should overtake.

I guess in some cars there's a better indication, but as far as I can tell in mine there isn't, and no way to set it back to "dumb" cruise
 
I wasn't a fan when I first got ACC in a courtesy car but now I find it painful to drive without it, makes for a much more chilled out drive. Set and forget and it doesn't matter what the cars in front are doing it just goes with the flow.

The system on my VW goes one better and can quite happily slow down and maintain the correct speed to navigate a roundabout even with no car in front to follow if you let it which is very weird the first time.
 
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Haggisman said:
To be honest, I'm not a massive of fan of adaptive cruise in the first place, if I've set CC to 70 it's because I want to be doing 70, not whatever speed the car in front is doing, and it's annoying having to constantly keep checking my speedo to see if they've slowed down and I should overtake.

I guess in some cars there's a better indication, but as far as I can tell in mine there isn't, and no way to set it back to "dumb" cruise
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This is where the MEB head up display is great. It’s like a missle lock on a car so you know cruise can see it
 
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Right, just booked with octopus for the Hypervolt 3 Pro charger install
DNO has already emailed to say my fuse needs changing out and appointment already booked within 30 mins...that was quick! :cry:
Waiting to for the octopus team to call me back to get the charger install scheduled (when I called them, they said that their website scheduling page is down)

That was surprisingly painless...lets hope the install goes the same too
 
Month before new car with free charger so did my ohme pro free install survey today. Paid extra for the surge protector and 8m cable

Cable from Cu to front of house needs to run under two rooms. I assume they expect floors lifted to make install easier? Run will be less than 15m so falls under standard install I hope

I’m on a 100a fuse but looped to next door so maybe DNO need to unhoop too
 
Simon said:
Month before new car with free charger so did my ohme pro free install survey today. Paid extra for the surge protector and 8m cable

Cable from Cu to front of house needs to run under two rooms. I assume they expect floors lifted to make install easier? Run will be less than 15m so falls under standard install I hope

I’m on a 100a fuse but looped to next door so maybe DNO need to unhoop too
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IME yes to both..

I’d want to talk to the installer first though, because they might be able to advise on the best method of getting from A to B with the cable, and then you can agree any work you need to do, or any extra fees if they do it..

And DNO’s IME always want you unlooped, I’m technically still waiting for a street light opposite us to be unlooped, they installed the Charger without being unlooped because it was just a low power led light, but I keep getting ghosted by the company who are supposed to be doing it and the DNO have sent a letter saying they could revoke permission for the charger if I don’t get it done.. so keep chasing some 3 years on..
 
Went looking at cars today. Saw a niro, id3, Kona and ionic5, all around the 22 plate. Really liked both the niro and the ionic. The id3 had a lot to like but the center console was too glossy and the back seats put your knees at a weird angle. The Kona did not grab us despite me feeling it would be the best. The Ionic 5 was by far the nicest, but given it is 7-8K more than the niro I would expect that. But I think I have my heart set on one now. Going to look for a sub 20k miles ultimate model. We have a few Hyundai dealers near us and their approved used prices are no more than the likes of cinch and auto trader so will most likely go that route. Thanks to all the advice, it is strange how much seeing them in the flesh changes opinions. Now need to get onto octopus to get a charger installed.
 
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FNG said:
Going to look for a sub 20k miles ultimate model.
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Mileage isn't that important in a BEV really, unless you are doing high mileage yearly and will quickly end the warranty. There are a good number of Ioniq 5 degradation tests out there showing lower than anticipated results after a few years and 40-60k miles

Here's on the was 40k miles with DC charging, doing 70mph

 
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