Ebike Sale...
- Thread starter psd99
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There will always be companies who can do it if you really wanted to replace vs just buy a new bike. Usually ebike batteries are just a pile of 21700 batteries wired together (at least the DIY options are) although maybe the integrated versions are different because they're much smaller/lighter (albeit lower capacity). The momentum is integrated which makes access tricker, but their website does say that there are authorised dealers who can perform replacements.
As someone who has converted my own bikes, i'd much rather get that Momentum Voya if i was in your shoes
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obviously the frames not cast around the battery,
You can no doubt get them out, but it probably mean dropping the motor out first or some such.
where as most bikes it can slide up the tube from the bottom Infront of the motor, or they just have a panel that opens, or just mounted on the outside of the frame :S
they still pedal powered if they are legalLoads of chat about e-bikes over in the pedal powered sub forum - I’d link to it but am on my phone and it’s a faff
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How are the front wheel kits? Do they make a huge difference?
I need to get an e bike or a conversion kit to commute twice a week 13 miles one way up big steep hills, would it be up for the task?
Man of Honour
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Over the last 14/15 years I've fitted mainly front motors to peoples bikes and both of mine have front motors.
I did at one point have a 1000 watt rear motor but it lasted one month before I went back to 250 watt, I just didn't need it and of course illegal.
Front motors are very easy to fit because it's just changing the front wheel and plugging into it.
Mid Drive motors take a lot more work and Rear Drive you have gear cassettes etc to think about.
It is always said that mid drive are best for torque and getting up steep hills.
Would I recommend a front 250 watt for a 13 mile commute up mainly steep hills? - to be honest I doubt I would.
I have a couple of steep parts but they last 100 yards max and you can tell the bike isn't really happy.
It looks like my company of choice Yose Power don't do mid drives any more.
250w hubs are useless on any steep hill really
Can't go wrong with Bafang mid drive motors
Easier to get away with a higer wattage (middrive) motor rather than a dustbin lid sized motor attached to ya wheel
Mid drives are easy to install. Takes all of 10 minutes to remove the crankset and bb then drop the motor in , hardest part is tidying the cables up
Can't go wrong with Bafang mid drive motors
Easier to get away with a higer wattage (middrive) motor rather than a dustbin lid sized motor attached to ya wheel
Mid drives are easy to install. Takes all of 10 minutes to remove the crankset and bb then drop the motor in , hardest part is tidying the cables up
True, but at least the controller is all integrated into the motor which i don't believe is the case with hub motors.
Are the front wheel ones activated by a throttle or by peddling (like a mid motor mount).
i think they are activated by a sensor on the spokes and fork
I think I am going to go for a Boost kit which is a back wheel 250W motor to convert my hybrid into an electric hybrid, I'd just want to use it to get me up some hills for when i want to go really long distances and for commuting to work once or twice a week (I have done this once with non electric but just gets me knackered), I'd say am quite out of shape at the moment and overweight (started cycling a couple of months ago) and i try doing 62 - 63 miles per week (hard enough to get my heart rate to zone 2) so who knows after a year of doing this and losing weight my commutes might become a lot easier (i use this for groceries and etc too with pannier bags)
I wont do that until I get a proper gravel bike or cross country mountain bike though for my non electric riding, want to get something really nice like a Trek pro caliber 9.7 or an equivalent gravel bike but gonna lose a few stone before i get one though so probably in the next 6 - 8 months time
I wont do that until I get a proper gravel bike or cross country mountain bike though for my non electric riding, want to get something really nice like a Trek pro caliber 9.7 or an equivalent gravel bike but gonna lose a few stone before i get one though so probably in the next 6 - 8 months time
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You put a magnet and sensor down by your pedals.
Man of Honour
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It will be far easier fitting a front kit, I've fitted at least 25 conversions from this place
E-Bike Conversion Kit
Make your bicycle to an electric bicycle and enjoy the fun of electric bicycles.
yosepower.com
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My issue with front hubs is just how much it affects the steering.
There’s a reason pretty much no prebuilt bikes offer it. If you’re happy with the required work you get a much better bike by using mid/rear
There’s a reason pretty much no prebuilt bikes offer it. If you’re happy with the required work you get a much better bike by using mid/rear
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It doesn't affect the steering, I've been using them for 15 years and I've also used rear motors.
I've only taken my mid drive conversions out for a test but I prefer front motors.
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you mean because a lot of weight, google says 4-7kg or 4x the weight of a normal wheel, spinning at speeds wants to go in a straight line? so your kinda fighting the momentum?
Definitely a little. The weight is relatively low so it's not as bad as it could be, but it's definitely noticable and i know a few people who were glad to move away from them. Albeit they had health conditions that caused some strength issues which probably made it more apparent.
To be my wifes first bike which was front hub just felt like it was pulling you which i didn't like. However it might just be the kind of motor as i don't like the mid drive Bafangs either as it feels so unnatural in the way they apply power.
To be my wifes first bike which was front hub just felt like it was pulling you which i didn't like. However it might just be the kind of motor as i don't like the mid drive Bafangs either as it feels so unnatural in the way they apply power.
I guess that's what your paying for when you buy Bosch or whatever.
I doubt Bafang are measuring torque , speed, tilt ,acceleration and cadence 1000+ times per second.
Googlefu claims some of the bafang motors only measure cadence via magnets, but the higher end ones have torque sensors as well, although they don't seem to boast about sampling frequency like Bosch do.
if it's relying on magnets alone at the cranks then the motor likely has no idea what kind of assist it should be giving to feel natural, it just knows when to apply power and when not to.
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