I use auto most of the time and I-pedal if around town. I have the auto hold on as I like that.
I was told as its AWD tyres should be rotated in a cross every 8k miles. Did mine a week ago having 3 trolley jacks was a big help….lol
EV general discussion
- Thread starter Ricochet J
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I use auto most of the time and I-pedal if around town. I have the auto hold on as I like that.
I was told as its AWD tyres should be rotated in a cross every 8k miles. Did mine a week ago having 3 trolley jacks was a big help….lol
All i can say is after 20k miles there is 0.5mm difference in wear across front and rear so dunno lol.
I'm early on in the journey of making the jump to EV. I have 3 kids age 3.5, 8 and 12, with the youngest still in an isofix base seat but not for much longer.
The EV6 caught my eye but wondering if it's spacious enough. I'm going to try and view some over the next couple of days but if anyone has any recommendations for this situation I'm all ears.
The EV6 caught my eye but wondering if it's spacious enough. I'm going to try and view some over the next couple of days but if anyone has any recommendations for this situation I'm all ears.
Makes no sense. The tyre will need to scrub in again and run the opposite way if directional.
Rotating tyres is some odd American thing. You aren’t achieving anything other than wasting time.
Doubt it. Rear is small despite the wide hips on them
We’ve just had twins and have a 4 year old. So ISO fixes are important to us. We also wanted space so went for the EV9. So far so good.
So what? It’s a pointless activity. There’s no linkage of front to rear that would need the wheel diameters to stay similar.
You just end up replacing 4 tyres at once rather than in pairs.
The only ‘reason’ to rotate is it forces you to look at the tyres condition eg bulges etc. but you can do that as an inspection anyway. The tyres will need a few hundred miles to scrub in for optimal grip if you change them around
Have some ellipsis back …
You just end up replacing 4 tyres at once rather than in pairs.
The only ‘reason’ to rotate is it forces you to look at the tyres condition eg bulges etc. but you can do that as an inspection anyway. The tyres will need a few hundred miles to scrub in for optimal grip if you change them around
Have some ellipsis back …
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I don't bother rotating tyres generally that much but if you get significantly different wear front to back depending on which wheels are driven you can get understeer or oversteer in the wet - lift off oversteer due to having significantly different grip front to back due to the differing levels of grip causes quite a lot of accidents.
If you are getting significant irregular wear on individual corners you are best trying to sort the source of it i.e. alignment rather than swapping wheels around.
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Tyres are rotated at to reduce uneven tyre wear. Having drastically different wear on different axles is never a good idea.
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That's why I asked during the service, in the service schedule its classed as a C on the schedule but both Hyundai dealers i spoke to told me there ia no need to in AWD. Maybe as mine is fully managed ie I dont pay for anything apart from charge, they just replace a pair of tyres whenever rather than try to even out the wear. As there is only 0.5mm dif in wear I wonder if rotating is actually worth doing.It’s in the owners manual too…
Soldato
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AWD generally means the tyres will wear more evenly anyway!
Why. There’s no haldex or centre diff to wind up. How are they going to wear drastically different anyway ?
As said. Just a waste of time and compromised grip until they scrub back in. Not really bothered what the manual says, it’s an attempt at adding value in the service beyond brake fluid and pollen filters I would suggest. Also check the spelling of tire. You are looking at a US manual. Edit seems they can’t spell.
Well I hope everyone is doing everything in the manual. Like ‘checking’ the reducer fluid at 60k miles. Whatever that means. There’s no level gauge or dipstick. Are you meant to taste it ?
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It depends of course but since most cars are FWD the fronts tend to wear out a fair bit faster. Hence my different axles comment as I clearly did not mean different sides. Apologies for any confusion on that.
Now if you don’t bother to do tyre rotation, fair enough but let’s not try to also delude ourselves front tyres don’t generally wear faster (unless there is alignment issues) in the majority of cars due to the far more common number of FWD cars. RWD cars will tend to have a more even tyre wear.
So it’s a bit of an overgeneralisation to declare it a waste of time in all cases.
Now if you don’t bother to do tyre rotation, fair enough but let’s not try to also delude ourselves front tyres don’t generally wear faster (unless there is alignment issues) in the majority of cars due to the far more common number of FWD cars. RWD cars will tend to have a more even tyre wear.
So it’s a bit of an overgeneralisation to declare it a waste of time in all cases.
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Soldato
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It’s a waste of time as well as compromised attributes whilst the tyre wears into it new position. Ie. Typical camber change front to rear.
I’m at 23K miles on my IPACE. All even.
The guidance should be actually for the RWD model unless they are masking a geometry issue similar to the Mach-e tyre eater.
I’m at 23K miles on my IPACE. All even.
The guidance should be actually for the RWD model unless they are masking a geometry issue similar to the Mach-e tyre eater.
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The bigger question is why that is a problem though. Rather have the car understeer than snap me into a tree or barrier and replacing 2 tyres at a time isn't a problem at all is it, helps with cashflow even as they are a big lumpy expense
Indeed but its in a Ioniq 5 manual which is either rwd or awd. The manual doesn’t say front to back. It also says diagonal which means the tyres turn the other way. It’s very bizarre. It’s also odd the owner manuals talks about how to mount asymmetric tyres to a wheel
I wasn’t generalising either. was being specific to the guy who wasted time with 3 jacks swapping his wheels around.
Even in a fwd id rather leave the front to wear out rather than run to 2mm and put then on the back then wonder why it spins and crashes the next time it rains. For a fwd you are better off running fronts down. Then when need replace put the rears on the front and new tyres on back. This is proper tyre rotation. Although saying this I had new years by Kwik fit and left front as they are. (E primacy no where near as good as the contiseals btw)
Assuming no stagger of course. Tyre rotation not possible then.
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