RWD tyre question

Give the A3030 between Alweston and Bishop's Caundle a good go, if you can't get any lift off into some of those bends, you're just not trying :p

I've not driven the 3030 in ages - I keep meaning to, to refamiliarise myself with the bends, as it is my potential backup route to/from work if the main road and secondary route were somehow both ever closed.
 
It's maintained to a high level yes. That's all that matters. Not sure why you are coming at me. The argument is purely that worn fronts/rears can affect under/over steer. That is all.
Does tyres not count to said high level then?
This was due to worn rears.

I wasn't coming at you, I thought I was reasonably polite, even stating that I wasn't trolling? Your response was quite bitter/rude?

I just stand by what I said, it can be a multitude of factors, either individually, or all at once, contributing to X issue, when it comes down to handling.
As someone that has maintained track cars for a long time, I stand by that.

Yes it can be black and white if everything else is up to the task and you make an error of judgement, or set something up wrong i.e. a lairy alignment for trackwork and then using it on the road, or simply driving a car that's known to have quirky driving, particularly in poor conditions or in general, i.e. a 205 :cry: as aforementioned, but in general, on road use, unless you're driving like a ****, you're usually fine, especially with all the babying/nannying assists modern cars all have as standard now, along with how far tyre technology has come.

But you did admit you were driving too fast, so that is definitely more the factor here, versus your initial more innocent 'it just happened for no reason' approach in your first posts, of which didn't mention anything regarding speed or worn tyres...

I was going too fast. Agreed. But meh.

Personally, having 2 different tread depths be it front to back, vice versa, or side to side, rarely makes a difference on a 2WD, as the end that puts the power down, always wears out quicker anyway, and also as aforementioned, most cars have open diffs by choice, and even the uneven wear across those 2 tyres, rarely is a factor in real world driving on a road, nor is going under 5MM.
FWIW Cup 2's came with 6MM from factory, and were fitted to GT3RS' etc, and people certainly didn't throw them away at 4-5MM - and they can be dangerous in damp or wet weather if you're not used to their lower limits in poorer conditions. Yet they didn't end up binning them on everyday road use :)
 
Black circles reckons that:

The Pirelli P Zero is an ultra high performance tyre selected as original equipment (OE) on some of the world's premium cars.

I've never used them so can't comment. They sound good.
 
Possibly one of the reasons I've not really encountered it - most of my car history has been either RWD or AWD vehicles usually with a decent wheelbase and I've tended especially to avoid driving small FWD vehicles like the 205 GTi. The Qashqai is the only FWD vehicle I've owned in ages.
If you fancy a laugh, skip to 4 minutes 7 seconds if the video doesn't do it for you :P
He mentions it again at 5:06 :)
I dug this out just for you and @Armageus , the entire video is well worth a watch, for Goodwin's 'driving' :cry:

Enjoy ;)
 
Last edited:
@deviation worn rears doesn't mean poorly maintained. As you say, we all try to get our moneys worth. They were legal, but barely so. They needed changing. Yes I was driving faster than I should but not silly speeds. There is absolutely no way it would have happened if the rears were new and matched the front better. To the point where I went and tried to repeat it when I had new tyres and never could.
 
@deviation worn rears doesn't mean poorly maintained. As you say, we all try to get our moneys worth. They were legal, but barely so. They needed changing. Yes I was driving faster than I should but not silly speeds. There is absolutely no way it would have happened if the rears were new and matched the front better. To the point where I went and tried to repeat it when I had new tyres and never could.

Did you repeat it with the same brand/model tyre, when trying to do it again? As if not again that's another variable, and that could just be a limiting factor of said tyre in general or when combined with X chassis/weight class etc, lol see what I mean, it quickly becomes not black and white and a minefield of variable contributing factors. But yeah, fair enough, let's leave it at that :)
 
Remould4lyfe I live my lyfe one wet greasy roundabout at a time
iu


iu
 
In between breakdowns and/or parts falling off :p

But make sure you give it back before everything breaks on it :P because Mini :cry:


Interesting, I've driven Minis for many, many years and have never had a single failure. I also know of quite a few others with Minis, none of which have cost a penny apart from service items :confused:
 
Interesting, I've driven Minis for many, many years and have never had a single failure. I also know of quite a few others with Minis, none of which have cost a penny apart from service items :confused:
It's more the earlier ones that were pretty poor especially as they aged iirc. Plus it was intended to be a light hearted comment

At least I think they were, I recall looking into buying one and being put off
 
Last edited:
Jesus, this argument is almost as good as the old heel and toe and double de-clutch ones. Have to have been on here for a while to remember those.
 
Interesting, I've driven Minis for many, many years and have never had a single failure. I also know of quite a few others with Minis, none of which have cost a penny apart from service items :confused:
Real ones, or BMW? The proper Mini's were great. The BMW ones, not so much.

Were they bought from new, or low mileage, kept for long, serviced professionally and frequently?

Strange if it's BMW Mini, as it's no secret the R51/53 were absolute junk, and had many failures, such as steering racks, power steering pumps, gearboxes, amongst others, 99% of which require lifting/supporting the engine and dropping the subframe, costing you hours in labour.
I've seen all of those issues happen, on the same cars, it's just a matter of when, along with seeing JCW engine spin a bearing at full chat and take out the crankshaft with it :cry: and that engine was FSH at Mini and was around 80K miles :P

The later stuff loves to snap a timing chain, along with the tensioner failing.

TBF, it's hardly surprising really, as BMW loves to do this with it's 'modern' engines of those era's and before them. For example, the N20 used in BMW's even had a major class action lawsuit, due to the obviously poor design.
You can take the oil cap off a 320i F series and actually get your finger in there and feel the slack of the chain (if you're lucky to catch it before the inevitable) and then when you drop the sump, you're rewatched with a knackered crank and bearings.

If you've had good experiences with them, then fair enough, I've just seen many at work pretty much financially write off the value of the car to the customer, thus not economical to repair.
Anyone that I've known to own one, that maintains them themselves, has wasted serious money keeping them 'reliable', and regretted it. And anyone that's paid someone else to keep them on the road, felt the same.

But fair enough if you and your friends have been lucky, but the enthuasist community, would definitely disagree with you from a financial POV to keep them as a long term car.

I'm not at all discrediting anything that you've said though mate, they're just one of those cars that you 'know what you're getting yourself into' if you buy one.

It is heartbreaking how bad modern BMW's are compared to the old skool stuff :( You used to buy a BMW because it had a chain, not be put off because it has one! Modern cars are just built to last a lease/warranty and be thrown in the bin I guess.
 
Last edited:
Real ones, or BMW? The proper Mini's were great. The BMW ones, not so much.

Were they bought from new, or low mileage, kept for long, serviced professionally and frequently?

Strange if it's BMW Mini, as it's no secret the R51/53 were absolute junk, and had many failures, such as steering racks, power steering pumps, gearboxes, amongst others, 99% of which require lifting/supporting the engine and dropping the subframe, costing you hours in labour.
I've seen all of those issues happen, on the same cars, it's just a matter of when, along with seeing JCW engine spin a bearing at full chat and take out the crankshaft with it :cry: and that engine was FSH at Mini and was around 80K miles :P

The later stuff loves to snap a timing chain, along with the tensioner failing.

TBF, it's hardly surprising really, as BMW loves to do this with it's 'modern' engines of those era's and before them. For example, the N20 used in BMW's even had a major class action lawsuit, due to the obviously poor design.
You can take the oil cap off a 320i F series and actually get your finger in there and feel the slack of the chain (if you're lucky to catch it before the inevitable) and then when you drop the sump, you're rewatched with a knackered crank and bearings.

If you've had good experiences with them, then fair enough, I've just seen many at work pretty much financially write off the value of the car to the customer, thus not economical to repair.
Anyone that I've known to own one, that maintains them themselves, has wasted serious money keeping them 'reliable', and regretted it. And anyone that's paid someone else to keep them on the road, felt the same.

But fair enough if you and your friends have been lucky, but the enthuasist community, would definitely disagree with you from a financial POV to keep them as a long term car.

I'm not at all discrediting anything that you've said though mate, they're just one of those cars that you 'know what you're getting yourself into' if you buy one.

It is heartbreaking how bad modern BMW's are compared to the old skool stuff :( You used to buy a BMW because it had a chain, not be put off because it has one! Modern cars are just built to last a lease/warranty and be thrown in the bin I guess.

The quality went out of the window years ago. It's all about lasting the first 3 years now (not even a 5 year warranty from the Germans).

Also noticed they dropped the "ultimate driving machine" slogan years ago too, because they are a long way from those days. Ultimate chintz mobile maybe.
 
Last edited:
The quality went out of the window years ago. Also noticed they dropped the "ultimate driving machine" slogan years ago too. Because they are now along way from those days. Ultimate chav machine maybe.
Yep, they're all at it, I can't honestly think of anything that is 'bulletproof' like it used to be, even Toyota aren't amazing now. I remember seeing things like Corolla's having failing gearboxes sub 80K, of which would never happen on the older stuff for such a pedestrian non performance car, that's rarely owned by the typical abuser types.
It's all just down to greed and cost, and said greed has become all anyone cares about these days, sadly.
 
Real ones, or BMW?

BMW. Had an R50 for five years and it never skipped a beat. We now drive an F56 which we bought at 12k miles in 2020, and it's just passed 60k miles. The only thing that's failed on it is the sunroof, but that I blame on the trees it was parked under and their incessant downpour of sap in to the rails. It was replaced under warranty anyway. Other than that, not a penny.

We don't skimp on maintenance though, our cars are always maintained to the highest standards by good garages.
 
Last edited:
BMW. Had an R50 for five years and it never skipped a beat. We now drive an F56 which we bought at 12k miles in 2020, and it's just passed 60k miles. The only thing that's failed on it is the sunroof, but that I blame on the trees it was parked under and their incessant downpour of sap in to the rails. It was replaced under warranty anyway. Other than that, not a penny.

We don't skimp on maintenance though, our cars are always maintained to the highest standards by good garages.
Nice, to be fair though, it sounds like your mileage never went that high. I mean 100K is nothing for a second hand car for example, you only have to compare 80's and 90's engine's lifespans, and some 2000's stuff. So I would expect yours to not have problems so early on.
One of my mates had an R50, bought from family friend, not long after, the rack failed, then the PAS pump,then after both were replaced and a days worth of labour, it rewarded him with blowing the gearbox a week later :cry: That was a 1.6 Petrol manual.
Also worth mentioning, this guy was a lot younger than me, and a friends younger brother, so he had a blackbox fitted, and obviously can't kick it's head in nor speed.
 
Last edited:
I'm running the i3S rears down as far as I can, and I couldn't even get it to drift on my lawn with less than 3mm tread. It did understeer though with more tread on the front , so maybe Nasher is onto something????
 
I'm running the i3S rears down as far as I can, and I couldn't even get it to drift on my lawn with less than 3mm tread. It did understeer though with more tread on the front , so maybe Nasher is onto something????
Not trying hard enough

IMB_FL67Mq.gif



 
Back
Top Bottom