Shed on flagstones

hornetstinger

hornetstinger

hornetstinger

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I'll be building a metal shed, on flagstones. I've just bought some pressure treated timber, and will be using creosote on it to further protect it. I've also bought some DPM membrane.

Should I use the DPM membrane, if so where?

Between flagstones and the base?
Base and metal shed?

This is the shed

ibb.co

81hm-At6-NCPL-AC-SL1500 hosted at ImgBB

Image 81hm-At6-NCPL-AC-SL1500 hosted in ImgBB
ibb.co ibb.co

It's not that heavy, so would be good idea to get some "feet" to raise the timbers slightly off the ground so I'll get airflow around timbers, under and inside shed? Perhaps use left over timbers to make feet, use DPM between feet and timbers?

something like this

ibb.co

81hm-At6-NCPL-AC-SL1500 hosted at ImgBB

Image 81hm-At6-NCPL-AC-SL1500 hosted in ImgBB
ibb.co ibb.co
 
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Does it have a floor?
My metal shed tried to escape at the allotment during the first decent winds we had
Luckily it caught on my cage so I could rescue it.
Its now got 10x 23kg breeze blocks attached to it.

If its not got a floor, or if it has and your not keeping anything heavy in it, expect it to try to escape
 
Treat the timbers put them down of feet spaced reasonably close together, DPM on top of the timber then the flooring, try to make sure the walls of the shed overhang the floor so any water would drop past it, or install a DPM overhang so water would track away from the wood frame.
 
hornetstinger said:
It's not that heavy, so would be good idea to get some "feet" to raise the timbers slightly off the ground so I'll get airflow around timbers, under and inside shed? Perhaps use left over timbers to make feet, use DPM between feet and timbers?
Click to expand...

Yes raise your frame off the ground a few inches so it doesn't ever sit in puddles. Consider using brick or concrete plinths to raise it, rather than timber, as these won't rot.
 
I don't want to raise it too much as would be difficult to bring in motorbike. A brick may be too high. What about half brick in height do those exist?


Also if I get pressure treated plywood for wood what should I use for treatment- it can't be oily as motorbike will go on that.
 
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hornetstinger said:
I don't want to raise it too much as would be difficult to bring in motorbike. A brick may be too high. What about half brick in height do those exist?

Also if I get pressure treated plywood for wood what should I use for treatment- it can't be oily as motorbike will go on that.
Click to expand...
Some inch high square paving slabs would do, as long as they won't crack and can support the weight.

I've used Sikagard wood preserver before and think it's good:

Sikagard® Wood Preserver

Sikagard® Wood Preserver is a low-odour solution based on Micro-fine active technology. The fungicides and algaecides present in the formulation are finely dispersed so that wood penetration, and hence effectiveness, is much greater than standard wood preservation products. Sikagard® Wood...
gbr.sika.com gbr.sika.com
 
Ideally you want to create a gap between where water could pool and the timber.

I would go either stainless steel shims or These

Place under the pressure treated timber and under the DPM.

Anchor the shed down with stainless thread bar drilled through the flags and secured with chemical anchor.
 
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ANDARIAL said:
was this proper creosote or the `diy friendly` stuff from places like b+q?
Click to expand...

www.toolstation.com

CreoSolve Shed & Fence Treatment 4L

Looking for a safer alternative to traditional creosote and other replacement wood treatments? Choose CreoSolve Shed & Fence Treatment from Barrettine. The oil based solution doesn't contain biocides, so it's more eco friendly. The bitumen and wax treatment protects woods such as fence panels...
www.toolstation.com www.toolstation.com

Don't think I have the very old proper creosote. That's been used up on mums fencing
 
I have a much more basic metal shed mostly for bicycles and stuff. It's actually pretty awful (Absco flat packed Australian thing: all rather weak but they might get a flat pack award as it ships very compactly) and sits on a concrete based.

The one in the OP looks a lot better, but I would still echo MKW's comment about weighing it all down. Also look at how sturdy the roof and the bars above the doors are. During a storm mine almost came apart there so now I've put timbers inside there. All dry inside so the larger untreated CSL should suffice.
 
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ahhh the `fake stuff`
should be `ok` The proper creosote is a lot better but you need to buy it in 20 ltr tubs and declare it is for farm use ;)
 
yeah better than fence paint,i used it on our fence a good many years ago but was not happy with how long the colour lasted,used `proper` creosote last time about 3 years ago and `colour` is still good.Was not easy to find as i thought that you could not get the proper stuff at the time
 
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