***The Official Guitar Thread***

Gear4Music are a well established music store I've spent £1000s at, some reviews on this page


Only thing two things I'd add:
* tuner! Fender do a tuner app on the App Store that's free - it's good enough to keep the guitar in tune but you may find it irritating to constantly need the smartphone.
* new string set(s) - I'd probably suggest a new set of strings if it's off market place, you don't know how long they've been sat on. Having strings in reserve will keep momentum going too. Strings come in different gauges so you can tune them to be easy to play for her too.

After that it's lessons - specially so that she starts learning the songs she loves that will encourage her to play. It's important because when you start to feel to want to play the music, the steel strings can hurt/numb the fingers until they develop thicker skin, and the hands take time to build their muscle memory and flexibility. Headphones are a boon - even better if the headphones can mix in music. I learnt at home in my bedroom on a 12W marshall and the headphones kept the peace and civility.

You may find that 'setting up' the guitar improves it but it's quite involved, so don't worry about it initially. Only if you find it difficult to get into tune to the thing buzzes. As it's coming secondhand, only thing I would do is check that the neck is straight and not twisted/warped (other than a subtle 'relief' bow) or the frets aren't lifting/damaged.
 
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My 8 year old daughter has asked to start learning the guitar. Highly likely this will be a complete flash in the pan but absolutely want to encourage it.

Given the above spending as little as possible makes sense. I've seen a 3rd avenue guitar set on FB market place for 50 quid and am seriously considering it.

It's a 3/4 size, which I'm assuming would be perfect for her (she's quite small) but has anyone had any experience either with this type of guitar (I'm assuming it's absolute garbage) or introducing a young child into learning and not spending a fortune on gear?

My 8 year old niece got a Ibenez Gio 3/4 guitar and she seems to love it.

 
I did write a thread about this offer but not one person was interested :)

So keeping it Guitar orientated people on here have asked about guitar interfaces in the past.
About 3 months ago I bought the IK Multimedia ToneX pedal which I can honestly say is the best thing I have ever bought for live stage use.
The pedal contains presets of actual captured tones by other users so finding great sounds is easy.
It comes with software you can use on your PC/Mac such as ToneX App, ToneX Max (cut down version) and Amplitude 5 (cut down version).

A month ago IK started an offer - https://www.ikmultimedia.com/alling...ter&utm_medium=link&utm_campaign=GroupBuy2025
Basically if you buy one product at this moment you can have 26 other products for free.
I bought this which puts me on the $199.99 level but I got it from Amazon for £130 - www.ikmultimedia.com/products/tonexone/?pkey=tonex-one&_gl=1*37n23d*_up*MQ..*_gs*MQ..&gclid=Cj0KCQjwgKjHBhChARIsAPJR3xeuEbgF8x71a3KJtPOlfoF6ZroWkHFDJcQWUgcFpgIbH0y-zZH-teUaArH0EALw_wcB

This can be used on stage but great as an interface in front of your PC.

So far, guitar wise, I have redeemed $1600 of these products:
AmpliTube 5
TONEX MAX
ToneX EVH Brown Sound 78/79
ToneX EVH Brown Sound 80/81
ToneX EVH Brown Sound 82/84
ToneX Alex Lifeson Legacy
Tonex Anniversary Collection
ToneX ODS Legends
ToneX Mesa Boogie Reference
ToneX Joe Satriani Amp Vault
Engl Ampthology Vol 1
Hyde Street Amp Locker
Metal Gems
RedSeven Hybrid100

Non Guitar orientated and great in a DAW, I have also redeemed this software and woke up to two more free ones this morning.
The top four are $200 each.

MODO BASS 2
MODO DRUM 1.5
T-RackS 6 PRO
SampleTank 4
Hammond B-3X
Lurssen Mastering Console
Miroslav Philharmonik 2
Hitwave Synthwave
LA Confidential (drums)

I thought some may be interested.
 
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So my Laney has been sent back for repair. This happened just 3 months after buying, went away and then has returned. Not that impressed with Laney and their slow response to Anderton's in wanting it back. I've told Anderton's I might, once sorted, be looking to send it all back and buy something else. Think I will go back to valved instead.

Hopefully this link still works which I sent to Andertons. Although it looks like Vimeo now needs age verification (FML) so if you have a VPN just flick it to another country.

 
So looking at the birthday present ideas over the last couple of days, options being:

* wood - that's the 'wedges' of wood used to make an archtop guitar front and back, and the piece used for the sides. I have wood for neck etc, but the only addition then would be tuners, graphtech nut (I could use one I have already), fret wire, strings, accoustic pickups to build into the guitar itself and strap locks. I'd make the bridge out of wood too rather than have a tunermatic etc. This would be an involved project but I could make the basic structure and test my theories of the design without the purchase (using the other wood to make a skeleton).
It offers a completely different sound scape to my current electric guitar. However you can learn anything on any guitar..

* replace the TC Compressor pedal with a more expensive one - the TC doesn't get used that much so I'm a little scared that "spending to get a better one that I will feel like using" is slightly risky. Options here are the UAFX 1176 or the Atlas - both are DSP digital pedals and the Altas offers every possible tweaking option, and type of compressor in one pedal. I have built a compressor (176 using tube) so this would be a considerable step up from the TC. However I could build a non-DSP compressor pedal..
It offers options for metal (think most metal bands), especially for rhythm in keeping clear of lead levels and vocals.. often used in jazz to even out variations of volume.

* replace/supplement the TC Heavenly Lake with a new Reverb. The reverb is usually running continuously, so a quality pedal in this position will be heavily used and the quality of sound goes up. Options here are the UAFX Heavenly Plate which is a DSP plate reverb - UAFX does a separate pedal for hall/room reverb. The sound quality will improve because it's not using a chain of 2399 chips that accumulates noise at each step (each chip has an ADC and a DAC, so the sound gets repeatedly converted!), but instead has a single ADC/DAC with a DSP between doing all the fancy effects. Not analogue but the lower noise from the digital implementation is extremely useful in keeping the sound clean.
The entire lot goes into a JCM800.. so noise is both less of a concern unlike a DAW but at the same time the high gain means more noise hiss etc.
It offers plate sound rather than hall/room which means things like Bryan Adams (run to you), and can be used in blues and jazz too.

* VOX 846 vintage wah. This has been on my list of pedals, and people either use them or they sit there looking pretty. Wah is a like or loath it. The tone of the 846 vintage is very Hendrix and Brit blues with Clapton etc.
If offers raw bang on Hendrix, Clapton, Muse etc sound that can be used for metal/rock/blues but it's not often used in jazz (modern progressive yes possibly).

I have an epic fuzz pedal build coming up.. that's going to pretty much satisfy the distortion soundscape alongside my tube screamer and exiting CV7003 fuzz.

That I'm looking at over the next year is to learn some blues and jazz, plus explore the music theory side.

Decisions decisions..

Edit.. so after chatting with the mrs as she was chasing up.. decision made:

* New acoustic archtop build incoming!
* Vox 845 vintage wah for xmas
 
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I've been given this today.
I helped a bloke sell a Jaydee Tony Iommi SG that is very rare and he gave me this 1985 Fender Contemporary Strat as a thank you.
The whammy bar is missing and hopefully AI has sourced me one for $42 which is worth it (unless somebody can source one cheaper)

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I've been chatting to an experienced professionally trained Luther (violin and guitar) about the new design, researching heavily - specifically around how the body and top shape changes the 'modal' frequencies.

It's extremely complex - the top and bottom vibrate and resonate at 'modal frequencies'. It's like your guitar top ends up like a contour map with hills and dips that chance with frequency into different sizes and numbers with lines appearing where no movement exists, very much like your string vibration and harmonics etc.

The wood grain defines a stronger from neck to tail, but allows flexibility across the guitar. The shape of the thickness and arch supports the pressure of the bridge but also defines how it vibrates, the bracing bars under the top are tuned to adjust those peaks and valley at different frequencies whilst providing support to stop the pull of the string breaking the top over time. The back has the same as the top, and the interaction between the two tops modal frequency shapes causes differents in sound in air. The result is both the sound holes providing air movement but also the top movement 'beaming' sound. So tuning that for the intended purpose is yet another thing (what can be intimate and sounds good to the player vs what the guitar projects in each direction to an audience right to the back of the room).
Finally the guitar finish and thickness changes the tonal character again.

The bridge position is going to have to move, the experienced guy has done most ideas I've had as experiments in the past with archtops. There's limited analysis but the design is similar to a lute and that, along with an in-depth discussion and more thinking, has the design gravitating towards the optimal physics. So that bridge will move forward towards the centre of the lower bout - this allows for modes to appear between the bridge and tail plus ensues that the modes occur at frequencies further down the frequency spectrum. Otherwise it will sound high pitched and thin rather than lower pitched and mellow.
He's also used spars in designs which can support pickups etc but the key here for me is the spar is there to take string tension load off the bridge. If you imagine taking the body off an ending up with a bow then you get the idea.

When the bridge moves, so too dues the fretboard and also the neck if I'm to keep the same scale length. For a scale length, to get the fret frequencies correct the position between the bridge and each fret needs to be correct - it's all related (a point I'm very familiar from the first build). The net effect is I'll end up reaching more as the lower frets will be further out.
There's also an effect of longer scale lengths on the strings length, mass of the string (thickness), etc that changes the frequencies being sent to the top. This is why baritone's are more composed for lower frequencies and have less warmth/lower harmonics on the higher frequencies hence sound thinner and more piecing. This leads to thicker strings and more tension in the string on the bridge - the result is the tension causes the top to be more restricted on the lower energy low frequencies, thus you get more mid/upper focus sound.

Next is fret access with the body access cut out - that changes the shape of the top and results in a change in the shape of the modal peal/troughs and which frequency they occur. It changes the sound of the top basically. With a longer scale length, the frets are further apart and thus playing higher on the fretboard is met with the frets being futher away from the traditional 12/14th fret neck-body boundary. The longer the scale length, the more likely you're going to want a body cut out to access those frets.
I'll probably drop the number of frets (and therefore the length of the fretboard) to something like 20 frets, or possibly 18 otherwise you have to support the fretboard in the air because you don't want the fretboard restricting the sound board top. This is something the classical guitarists here already know.

This doesn't stop you from doing non-traditional shapes like this (note that the pickup attached to the top is frowned upon in the accoustic community so this would need careful though to modify the shape to this extent):
 
I know I'm pushing this but it's such a bargain I don't want anybody to miss out.

WHO IS IT FOR?
Somebody who just wants a guitar interface for their computer with standalone app guitar sounds
Somebody who uses a DAW
Somebody who wants to use the pedal on stage with some of the best captures you'll hear.

So buy this and it will put you on a $199.99 free plugins tier - Scroll down to the Free Products and you have access to redeem anything on that list, at this moment you are entitled to 40 free products - https://www.ikmultimedia.com/alling...ter&utm_medium=link&utm_campaign=GroupBuy2025


514w-H6-UZ-z-L-AC-SL1500.jpg


This is a list of stuff I have downloaded for free and combined cost so far is around $4200 and I still have 3 redeems to go with hopefully 10 more to come.
The Tonex Max and Amplitude are dedicated to guitar/bass, the rest are plugins for a DAW and some amazing captures of musical instruments.

TONEX MAX $199.99
ToneX Eddie Van Halen Brown Sound 78/79 $99.99
ToneX Eddie Van Halen Brown Sound 80/81 $99.99
ToneX Eddie Van Halen Brown Sound 82/84 $99.99
ToneX Alex Lifeson Legacy $99.99
Tonex Anniversary Collection $99.99
ToneX ODS Legends $99.99
ToneX Mesa Boogie Reference $99.99
ToneX Joe Satriani Amp Vault $99.99
Engl Ampthology Vol 1 $99.99
Hyde Street Amp Locker $99.99
Metal Gems $99.99
RedSeven Hybrid100 $99.99
Gus G Tone Asylum $99.99

AmpliTube 5 $199.99
AmpliTube SVX (Bass Guitar) $99.99
AmpliTube SVX 2 (Bass Guitar) $99.99
AmpliTube Brian May $99.99
Fender Collection $99.99

Hammond B-3X $99.99
Miroslav Philharmonik 2 $199.99
MODO BASS 2 $199.99
MODO DRUM 1.5 $199.99

T-RackS 6 PRO $199.99
Joe Chiccarelli Vocal Strip $99.99
Lurssen Mastering EQ $99.99
Lurssen Mastering Console $99.99
Comprexxor $99.99
British Channel $99.99
Sunset Sound Studio Reverb $99.99

SampleTank 4 $199.99
Hitwave Synthwave $99.99
LA Confidential $99.99
Alan Parsons Imperial Grand $99.99

Pianoverse
Grand Piano Y7 $99.99
Royal Upright Y5 $99.99

Screenshot-2025-10-19-141636.png
 
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Speaking of billy bargains, I just (finally) upgraded to guitar pro 8 and it offered a 12 month subscription to it's downloadable tab service, so thought why not. 55 euros total.

It is pretty incredible the amount of music they have on there, which seems mostly pretty accurate.

If anyone was new to learning guitar, or just fancied a new way to get inspiration, this is well worth it IMO.
 
Meanwhile, I'm still on the recovery bench from guitar induced tendonitis and it's really depressing. Try to keep your wrists straight and at the first hint of discomfort, put that guitar down - it's just not worth it. I'm getting flare ups after simple chords at the moment so I'm going without a guitar entirely.

I've even had to give up right hand picking (yes, I've been just practicing picking with open strings). because it's causing a flare up in areas affected by my shoulder surgery.... absolutely miserable!

On a lighter note, my custom order guitar should be hitting the shores in March / April, so I would hope I can be mostly healed by then. Mostly [/newt].
 
Speaking of billy bargains, I just (finally) upgraded to guitar pro 8 and it offered a 12 month subscription to it's downloadable tab service, so thought why not. 55 euros total.

It is pretty incredible the amount of music they have on there, which seems mostly pretty accurate.

If anyone was new to learning guitar, or just fancied a new way to get inspiration, this is well worth it IMO.

I've used Guitar Pro since v4 now on v8.
The other month Ultimate Guitar stopped letting people download GP files and it nearly caused a riot, I sent in a couple of complaints.
Anyway the last time I looked you can get GP files off there now.
 
I've used Guitar Pro since v4 now on v8.
The other month Ultimate Guitar stopped letting people download GP files and it nearly caused a riot, I sent in a couple of complaints.
Anyway the last time I looked you can get GP files off there now.

Yup same experience as me! Including me thinking 'wtf is this' with ultimate guitar :p

I've had mixed experience with downloading the free ones over the years, even paid files aren't always 100%... but they're close.

The ones that are integrated into Guitar Pro 8 (My Songbook, I think), seem pretty good - also including actual vocal tracks too which is interesting, first time I've seen that!

Having them so easily accessible without having to shuffle through crappy versions is very pleasing.... on a whim I've just opened up The Final Countdown ("oh, so that's the notes").

If you have Guitar pro 8 already and go file -> browse -> my songbook you can find them all there without having to pay to see what they've got.
 
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I was talking to a mate in the pub last night. He's learning to fingerpick.

I've pointed him at some Giuliani studies as the best way to practice specifics, while playing something that sounds nice.

He has Andante in C ("tales from the riverbank" theme) as homework to improve his thumb picking.

Yes, I am weird.
 
I was talking to a mate in the pub last night. He's learning to fingerpick.

I've pointed him at some Giuliani studies as the best way to practice specifics, while playing something that sounds nice.

He has Andante in C ("tales from the riverbank" theme) as homework to improve his thumb picking.

Yes, I am weird.

Different string picking results in different sound - there's even studies and 'schools' on the different styles. Differences in terms of angle, attack, if the string is touching the finger etc.

I only know this as it's popped up during researching archtop tone in violins and guitars as part of the design work.
 
Birthday.. so today I went to a local instrument maker/timber specialist. Tapping wedges, I came back with two sets of wedges (front and back), sides, braces and linings. I took the most 'ringing' set of wedges in the non-premium pile (twice the price!). So I have enough to crack on with.

I've stuck up the paper on the glass board, so next is to draw up the scale diagram of the guitar.

Update today - now have the 18mm ply for the mould, bits for the clamping and the pipe for the hot bending iron. Ordered the thickness test dial too that will be made into a caliber to test the thickness of the top.

I've been interested in the look/sound of the Rancour ($6K+), Ken Parker and Gibson old school archtop series so I've been looking at body designs close to these but with my own requirements built in.
 
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Yet again I have destroyed the bottom E tuning peg on my classical, so needs replacing again. Annoying. I'm assuming it's all the drop D/ back to normal that's doing it.
A wooden peg? Wears out (ie the diameter wears down?). I know violin pegs have some 'lube' that they use to prevent the peg from wearing down. Or is that the tuning machine itself?


Had a bit of a session after dinner sketching out the new design, I started on 16" but gravitating towards a 17" lower bout, with the side wood being just under 100mm I think a 3-3.5" thickness sides may be helped by the slightly larger bout. The upper bout I have initially drawn as 13" which is on the larger side (many use 11-12") but given the guitar will sit at the same classical angle, that may be better overall.
In terms of the bridge - it's looking like it will be positioned about where my existing guitar bridge pickup is so that's not too bad.

I dug out the existing acoustic for comparison. It's a 16" bout, with an 11" upper bout, and then 4" neck 4.5" tail thickness which is deeper. It's also got a standard looking Martin X brace on the top .. but.. although the braces are scalloped by machine they're not really tuned to the top), it has the rear and top-bottom tone braces too which is quite surprising from the Martin design. The back had a ladder brace. The woods are cedar top and I believe cherry/maple on the sides/back. Sound is loud. The bridge needs a reset and I'm half tempted to cut the front binding off, unglue the front and re-tune the top. What I don't like about it is it sounds a little mute, perhaps overly warm and missing mid/clarity. However the wood/bracing can be the same but sound entirely different depending on the builder. I find it actually too loud.. but that's another story.

Next is looking at the design, in the end it's about getting a design that works for me - then tune it to the sound (modes, bracing style etc). I need to look at the neck/spa more carefully as the laminate block is really heavy so I don't want neck dive. Once that outline is done and I'm happy I'll crack on with making the mould.

What's becoming more and more obviously is that an acoustic design and build is exponentially more difficult than a solid body electric!
 
A wooden peg? Wears out (ie the diameter wears down?). I know violin pegs have some 'lube' that they use to prevent the peg from wearing down. Or is that the tuning machine itself?

The head (plastic bit) has come off the tuning machine.

Sorry- i could have been clearer there.
 
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The head (plastic bit) has come off the tuning machine.

Sorry- i could have been clearer there.

Ahh gotcha. Does the peg have a splined join with the plastic and the plastic given way? You could get someone to mill you some aluminium ones (I know there's at least one machinist on the forum)?

All my guitars have metal tuning machines including the bit you turn but I can see how that could/would occur.
 
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