Heat Pumps: anyone have one/thought about it?

I think in my setup I get low flow rates regardless with a wider range of Delta-T so that's maybe why I don't see an immediate change in flow rate when adjusting Delta-T a couple of degrees.

I had at the permissible overshoot on the DT set to 4C and it was consistently hovering between 6C and 7C on the dT and 7l/min flow rate.

I’ve just switched over to radiators for an hour and my power fluctuations disappeared immediately. dT stuck at around 7 with the same 7l/min flow rate.

I sweated my WC curve slightly to 42C at -2 and 30c at 15 AOT. That didn’t make any difference but as soon as I stuck the emoter type on radiators, it immediately solved the issue.
I'm coming to this conclusion too. When set to fan coil to allow adjustment of the DT it hasn't made any difference to my actual DT at steady state. Because of the minimum flow rate of 7 l/m setting 3,4 or 5 DT just ends up with 3C DT (2C at one point due to modulation).

I was getting a slow cycle between 300W - 500W and a very slow overshoot to the room temp.

So I think my final change today will be back to radiators DT 10C. I've also cracked open a couple more of the window vents just to add a little more heat loss and ventilation. 10KWH total house usage yesterday so I'm hardly suffering!
 
Daikin specific

I did find the field setting in the installation manual for the DT when using radiators. I could change it there from 10 - 12 and it would reflect this in the menu option. Still to find the field setting that changes the adjustment range though.
 
Newly bought house, ageing and cantankerous boiler (no, not the Mrs). Octopus came and did the survey, then the surveyor rang for a quick briefing.

Water cylinder needs to go in the loft, so structural survey needs doing. There’s an old water cistern from a previous immersion system there, so does that mean the survey is likely to be fine as it’s clearly borne the weight of a load of water before?

Two vertical radiators need to be re-piped to 15mm pipes.

Loft hatch needs to be moved to get the cylinder in, but frankly the loft hatch needs to be moved anyway because going up there right now is an invitation to concussion.

We’ve paid the £200 deposit, does that mean the process is “underway” and we’ll qualify for the heat pump grant even if the other work takes us past the Budget on Wednesday?

Octopus are very risk averse hence why I had to arrange a structural plus asbestos survey oh and planning permission for sound and boundary compliance. I had two large water storage tanks within 10kg of the new DWH tank but didn't matter they need to know the structure is capable. ~£600 for the survey and £250 for the asbestos test. £300 for planning.

I also had to enlarge my loft hatch to give clear access to lift the new DWH tank. Did it myself so no great cost there.
 
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Probably the last update from playing with settings.

Switched back to Radiators DT 10C
Modulation 4
Global pump limit 60% = 15 l/m

After those changes I only saw a DT of 6C briefly while warming up from cold. Once at steady state the Daikin controller still aims for DT 3C and 7 l/m. Didn't see any pump speeds above 11 l/m though will check this on a freezing day.

Still seems to be very slowly overshooting the set point temp so I think that's just a symptom of a well insulated house and hitting the minimum heat output of the Daikin 4KW unit. So I'll leave it at that.
 
I’m sticking with what I’ve got, the last adjustment I made last night was to re-enable modulation at setting 2.

2 point curve:
42 @ -2
25 @ 15
Modulation:2
Emitter type: Radiators
DT: 10 (varies between 4 and 7 in practice).
Flow rate: settles in at 7l/min during normal operation
 
I’m sticking with what I’ve got, the last adjustment I made last night was to re-enable modulation at setting 2.

2 point curve:
42 @ -2
25 @ 15
Modulation:2
Emitter type: Radiators
DT: 10 (varies between 4 and 7 in practice).
Flow rate: settles in at 7l/min during normal operation
Actually I might do one change and try modulation 2 :)

I fixed my problem with the DHW cycle not starting after a restart. Seems having the heat + DWH cycle both come on at 13:00 meant the DWH took priority but wouldn't start. So now I start the DWH cycle at 14:00 instead. So long as the heat cycle has started the DWH will reliable work again.
 
I’m sticking with what I’ve got, the last adjustment I made last night was to re-enable modulation at setting 2.

2 point curve:
42 @ -2
25 @ 15
Modulation:2
Emitter type: Radiators
DT: 10 (varies between 4 and 7 in practice).
Flow rate: settles in at 7l/min during normal operation
That's not far off what I've settled on funnily enough:

42 @ -3
30 @ 14
Modulation: 4
Emitter type: Fan coil
dT: 7

Flow is always 7l/min pretty much. I selected 30C as a minimum on the weather curve as the Daikins hate below that. dT 10 on radiator was a bit unstable in colder weather for me and the radiators were a bit cool. This current setting gives me stability in flow rate, power use, good COP and less defrosts.

The Octopus default settings were pretty poor.
 
The Octopus default settings were pretty poor.

I've nudged my minimum LWT up to 26C as it doesn't seem to go much below 28C with a DT of 3 or 4. No problems with the rad setting but my system is quite small and very free flowing. This morning was a good test with LWT up to 35C at 0C DT4. I only saw two defrost cycles between 5AM - 8AM. First time I've seen the big plume of mist from the melted ice.
 
Over the last 658 days our heat pump has consumed 6,631 units of electricity - last time I took a reading and looked at stats was 1st February 2024!

That averages out at 10.08 units per day over that period, which at current tariff rates is a cost of £876.62.

House remains between 19c and 22c year round, so I believe I'm pleased with the usage cost to comfort ratio - house has never been heated by gas, oil or 1:1 electricity whilst in our ownership so can't really compare in that sense.

Will make a conscious effort to get a reading on 1st Feb 2026 to give a full 2 year figure, inclusive of properly cold months.
 
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Quick question for all you pumpers (I assume thats what you like to be called :p )

I understand that up to a point as long as you have a large enough heatpump that is correctly configured you can heat houses that aren't particularly brilliant thermally. You can still get the efficiency multiplier high enough to compete with gas on cost.

I just want to clarify something because some people seem to suggest that thats the main thing to worry about.

To my mind, we have a leaky old victorian house currently but are about to move and potentially into a doer upper. We basically heat the rooms we are in, while we are in them now. With heat-pumps you have to look at heating differently don't you. They are supposed to keep areas at constant temperatures rather than heat and cool all the time.

So the reality is, even if you get the efficiency to compete with gas on cost, unless your house can hold that heat, you will be paying a lot more purely because previously with Gas you were letting most of the house sit at a much lower temperature and only heating a small part of it vs the more constant heat of the heat-pump.

Is that right? That you really do need to make your home well insulated/draught proof or you are getting a cheaper heating system but you are heating the house much more so any saving is completely gone.
 
Sort of but not really.

Quick question for all you pumpers (I assume thats what you like to be called :p )

I understand that up to a point as long as you have a large enough heatpump that is correctly configured you can heat houses that aren't particularly brilliant thermally. You can still get the efficiency multiplier high enough to compete with gas on cost.
Correct, the efficiency multiplier is maintained as you go up the sizes of heat pump as long as your heat pump is correctly sized for the property (e.g. it’s being used within its optimal modulation range).

I just want to clarify something because some people seem to suggest that thats the main thing to worry about.

Sizing is very important to get right, if you oversize it, it will Will never get into its optimum performance modes and is usually the issue on bad installs. Likewise if you undersized it, it will not heat the house when it gets to the coldest days of the year.

To my mind, we have a leaky old victorian house currently but are about to move and potentially into a doer upper. We basically heat the rooms we are in, while we are in them now. With heat-pumps you have to look at heating differently don't you. They are supposed to keep areas at constant temperatures rather than heat and cool all the time.
Correct, but also consider that a gas boiler is also inefficient when doing the same thing.

You only get the rated efficiency out of a gas boiler when you use them in the exact same way as a heat pump. The main difference is the impact on performance of using a gas boiler in a sub optimal fashion is lower than a heat pump.

So the reality is, even if you get the efficiency to compete with gas on cost, unless your house can hold that heat, you will be paying a lot more purely because previously with Gas you were letting most of the house sit at a much lower temperature and only heating a small part of it vs the more constant heat of the heat-pump.
This is the part where you need to look at the physics and only heating a small part of your house doesn’t save you as much money as you think.

If the walls between your rooms are uninsulated, all that heat will just leak out into the remainder of the house.

Likewise because the heat loss of the rooms you are trying to heat is significantly increased because it’s leaking into the wider house.

This means your boiler has to work to get the radiators you are using hotter than they otherwise would have to overcome the heat loss this reduces the efficiency.

Have a look at this video:
Is that right? That you really do need to make your home well insulated/draught proof or you are getting a cheaper heating system but you are heating the house much more so any saving is completely gone.
Not really, you can heat pump any house, even old Victorian ones. They only need some very basic adaptions to take a heat pump, just double glazing and loft insulation and that’s usually it.

There is also a thermal comfort consideration. Once you have the fabric of your house up to say 19/20C and keeping it there becomes very easy and you don’t need to feel the drafts as much because the air is equalised.

It also generally means you don’t need to heat it to as high a temperature (can knock 1-2c off I found) because you don’t have that temperature variation across the house and further reduces your heat loss.

The main issue with running costs is the ‘spark gap’ between electricity and gas. Electricity is loaded with ‘policy costs’ and gas just isn’t. The wholesale cost is a hell of a lot closer than the retail rates.

The last point is bonkers when you want people to move over to electricity and stop burning gas.
 
Thank you for such an in depth reply!
Defo have a look at the wider content on that YouTube channel and you’ll get a good understanding of heating systems and the relationship between the inside temperature and the outside temperature (heat loss and therefore cost) and overall energy efficiency.

Edit: they are now heat pump ‘installers’ but previously they were a heating industry training company when a lot of that content went up.
 
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I have two quotes for heat pump installation:

1. Octopus Eco Install - Design flow temperature 50°C
Daikin Altherma 3 Monobloc EDLA06EV3 - 6kW - R32
Joule Slimline 200L Cylinder - 188L actual
~2000 quid

2. Local gas boiler specialist - Heat Geek trained - 38°C max flow temperature
Vaillant Arotherm Plus - 5kW - R290
Heat Geek/Newark Cylinder HG200A6 - 200L - 181L actual
~3500 quid

The pipes in the house are 15mm and all the radiators are oversized, so no further work is required.

I have a mortgage with Lloyds and hopefully can take a Green Reward of 2000 quid for a heat pump installation. Also my current boiler is Worcester Bosch 30kW, 5 years old, works perfectly - I probably can sell it on ebay for around 200, if they let me keep it.

So essentially I can get paid 200 quid to install a Daikin or pay 1300 to get more efficient heat pump and cylinder. The Vaillant can be installed in my back yard, as it's makes less noise. But the Daikin will have to go in the front, right next to the front door.

One thing I'm having doubts about is my girlfriend likes to take very long and very hot showers - she may use all the hot water in the cylinder by herself.
 
#2 IMO.

The Vailent is a better unit, as is the cylinder and worth the extra cash IMO. The cylinder will last you a lifetime, best cylinder in the market.

As for your GF, it shouldn’t be a problem. Mrs Sk8 is the same, it’s fine and my cylinder is only 180L gross capacity. The Vailent heat pump can also heat the cylinder to 60C without the immersion if you really want it to, not that I’d recommend it, 50C will be fine.
 
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I'd definitely go with the second quote at those final prices. We have a unitower with a capacity of 190 ltrs, we have it set at 50°c, it was installed in April and only once have we got short on hot water (usually three adukts here), even then I think it was my daughter just set the shower valve wrong as my other daughter who was visiting for the week said it was turned down to cold when she showered shortly afterwards. I checked the tank at the time she complained and it showed 32c, but three of us had showered pretty close together - we have two showers.

We have a 7kW Vaillant and that does reheat the water very quickly, I've set it to start a reheat once the tank temperature drops 6°c, think it was 7°c previously. Tank reheat takes about 25 minutes.
 
If I'm not seeing a large difference between flow and return temperatures, is it generally a sign that the water is flowing too quickly?

To clarify, flow is around 32c at current temperatures, return is around 29c
 
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If I'm not seeing a large difference between flow and return temperatures, is it generally a sign that the water is flowing too quickly?

To clarify, flow is around 32c at current temperatures, return is around 29c
It will be a struggle to achieve a higher dT at that flow temp even at minimum flow rate as the difference between the room temp and radiators will probably be under 10C. If you have massive piping and huge radiator capacity it might be possible, but otherwise probably not.
 
I have two quotes for heat pump installation:

1. Octopus Eco Install - Design flow temperature 50°C
Daikin Altherma 3 Monobloc EDLA06EV3 - 6kW - R32
Joule Slimline 200L Cylinder - 188L actual
~2000 quid

2. Local gas boiler specialist - Heat Geek trained - 38°C max flow temperature
Vaillant Arotherm Plus - 5kW - R290
Heat Geek/Newark Cylinder HG200A6 - 200L - 181L actual
~3500 quid

The pipes in the house are 15mm and all the radiators are oversized, so no further work is required.

I have a mortgage with Lloyds and hopefully can take a Green Reward of 2000 quid for a heat pump installation. Also my current boiler is Worcester Bosch 30kW, 5 years old, works perfectly - I probably can sell it on ebay for around 200, if they let me keep it.

So essentially I can get paid 200 quid to install a Daikin or pay 1300 to get more efficient heat pump and cylinder. The Vaillant can be installed in my back yard, as it's makes less noise. But the Daikin will have to go in the front, right next to the front door.

One thing I'm having doubts about is my girlfriend likes to take very long and very hot showers - she may use all the hot water in the cylinder by herself.
Definitely quote 2. I wouldnt want a heat pump near the front door. Plus, a design temp of 38C over 50C is worth it alone. You don't want to be running near 50C, it'll be quite inefficient.

We have a 210l cylinder and it has never run out despite there being 4 of us.
 
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