Removing a crank pulley?

CaneyJ · 23 Jun 2006 at 17:14

Okie dokes, just need a bit of advice about a good way to go about removing a crank pulley. I have to swap them around as part of my engine swap as the belts (and thus the pulleys) have different pitched teeth.
I've been practicing on a standalone engine in a scrapyard but my god is it tight :eek:

. Even with a breaker bar I just ended up taking the thread off the pulley nut

. Any suggestions?

nutcase · 23 Jun 2006 at 18:35

Lock the engine from turning, usually there's some kind of flywheel locking tool available. Use a decent impact type 6 sided socket rather than a 12 sided normal one. Use a breaker bar with a scaffold pole on it

Oh, and make sure you're undoing it the right way

Clarkey · 23 Jun 2006 at 18:45

you will wanrt a pulley puller, like so..

Sticky-Ring · 23 Jun 2006 at 18:50

Put a breaker bar on it so the one end is touching the floor then crank the starter, pull all the ignition leads off or something so the engine wont actually start.Always works for me.

Weesi · 23 Jun 2006 at 18:53

Lots of penetrating oil to deal with the rusted or seized nut then the breaker bar as mentioned.

Malachy · 23 Jun 2006 at 18:54

Sticky-Ring said:
Put a breaker bar on it so the one end is touching the floor then crank the starter, pull all the ignition leads off or something so the engine wont actually start.Always works for me.

same method as what i use

Simon · 23 Jun 2006 at 19:08

Clarkey said:
you will wanrt a pulley puller, like so..

Need to undo the nut first. I think thats what he means when he 'strips the thread off the nut cause its so tight'

Mon · 21 May 2009 at 13:47

I'm trying to do the same thing on a peugeot 406, the previous user has used a generous ammount of loctite on the pulley shaft itself as well as the thread of the bolt.

Don't have enough space to use a puller that hooks on the far side of the pulley as the cambelt cover is there.

http://www.timmonaghan.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/crankpulley.jpg

any idea on how to remove it been trying a blow torch to get some heat on it to soften up the loctite but don't want to use to much that i damage the crank seal.

using a crow bar from the top of the engine doesn't seem to be working with some heat.

Thanks in advance. Tim

kaiowas · 21 May 2009 at 14:06

Clarkey said:
you will wanrt a pulley puller, like so..

...and about 7 hands in my experience

Just be careful on a cast pulley if you're using a puller like that. They're relatively brittle and it's very easy to just pull a chunk out of the pulley lip.

Ideally the pulley will have some threaded holes cast into it to allow you to use the kind of puller where a pair of legs screw into the holes and the puller then pulls on those.

(Think that must be the most times I've ever typed "pull" in one post

)

Dogbreath · 21 May 2009 at 14:08

Clarkey said:
you will wanrt a pulley puller, like so..

You don't often need a puller for the timing belt pulley IME. Some of them can be slightly tight on the crank, but usually within the abilities of a carefully applied pry bar. If you do need one it's a better idea to use the proper tool that fits into threaded holes within the inner part of the pulley, as pulleys can be quite brittle and easy to crack with standard 2/3 legged pullers.

4T5 · 21 May 2009 at 14:10

Heat it with a blow torch until Red hot, Then get a candle & touch it on the stud, The candle will melt & the wax will works its way through.
Then whack it Hard & Directly face on with a decent size hammer, Don't be ***** about it as it has to have a Good solid thump.
Once thumped then use a 6 sided socket & a decent bar.
If you do not have access for the bar come in from underneath after jacking the motor up to the max to give the room you need.
Some motors it just pays to strip the front end down, Grill slam panel, Rad etc.

Wicksta · 21 May 2009 at 14:28

malc30 said:
Heat it with a blow torch until Red hot

What about the rubber crank seal.

4T5 · 21 May 2009 at 14:36

Wicksta said:
What about the rubber crank seal.

There's me giving out my Uber trick way of loosening super tight bolts & I completely forgot about the crank seal, Thanks for the correction.

Going to have to fall back on a 6 sided socket & the best bar you have with a scaffold bar slid over the end & like I said before if you have no access then jack it up to the max, If you need more than the jack will give you then use blocks & Large axle stands.

Confused · 21 May 2009 at 14:50

Make sure you're undoing it the right way, too.

Some of them will have left-handed threads so they don't work themselves loose.

fonzee · 21 May 2009 at 14:57

Sticky-Ring said:
Put a breaker bar on it so the one end is touching the floor then crank the starter, pull all the ignition leads off or something so the engine wont actually start.Always works for me.

interesting, never thought of that

Matt82 · 21 May 2009 at 14:57

doing a cambelt soon, the pulley is held on with 295NM... the golf was only held on with 4x20nm bolts

by locking tool i can see the "in gear, brakes on method" being used

Mon · 21 May 2009 at 14:59

cheers guys the bolt was off, just the pulley.

managed to get a pulley puller on the pulley (quite hard to say) by breaking the cam belt cover , either will repair or get a new one.

Break time now.

Got allot to do fitting a new injection pump to my car non standard as well so bit of an experiment.

Does anyone know how much a diesel injection pump (bosch EPVE) advances the timing when cold has got a wire for this not sure if i will use it, going to advance the pump slightly for the Vegetable oil it will be running on so will be cold when on diesel.

thanks again guys hopefully someone can help with the above question, bit obscure though