Actually not that bad at all, the black ones they do. Might be a winner.
Noob questions: Alloys and ECU flash
- Thread starter BUDFORCE
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Actually not that bad at all, the black ones they do. Might be a winner.
interesting:
So doing a bit of digging online, it seems the Volvo standard wheels are 16" - 215/55/R16 92V Offset: ET50 PCD: 5x108
so the offset is 50, the PCD 5x108.
Apparently these will fit:
https://www.wheelbasealloys.com/alloy-wheels/wolfrace/lucca/gloss-black/18-inch/volvo/s60/2nd-gen
So they can range from 16" up to 19", and rather handy that website will package them with tyres, which gives you the tyre size, I am guessing to keep the entire wheel (plus tyre) the same size so it will still fit in the car and not hit the bodywork or fail an MOT for sticking out too much. That being said, the 18" or 19" inch uses a 235mm wide tyre (compared to the original 215mm wide) that that is an extra 2cm sticking out, I am guessing that will still be MOT legal.
Seems the larger you go, the more expensive the alloy, plus the lower the profile of the tyre the more expensive.
So doing a bit of digging online, it seems the Volvo standard wheels are 16" - 215/55/R16 92V Offset: ET50 PCD: 5x108
so the offset is 50, the PCD 5x108.
Apparently these will fit:
https://www.wheelbasealloys.com/alloy-wheels/wolfrace/lucca/gloss-black/18-inch/volvo/s60/2nd-gen
So they can range from 16" up to 19", and rather handy that website will package them with tyres, which gives you the tyre size, I am guessing to keep the entire wheel (plus tyre) the same size so it will still fit in the car and not hit the bodywork or fail an MOT for sticking out too much. That being said, the 18" or 19" inch uses a 235mm wide tyre (compared to the original 215mm wide) that that is an extra 2cm sticking out, I am guessing that will still be MOT legal.
Seems the larger you go, the more expensive the alloy, plus the lower the profile of the tyre the more expensive.
Yep, you can also use this site: https://tiresize.com/tyre-size-calculator/
If you pump in the tyre size then it'll list alternate tyre sizes for different sized rims. There's also a comparison tab where you can enter two different tyre sizes and it'll list the overall difference as well as the impact it'll have on your speedo readings. You want to keep the diameter as close as possible. It came in handy when I was changing my Mondeo's 19" wheels out for 17" wheels.
You're probably best off going for 16" or 17" wheels. 18" and 19" give a harsher ride and the extra width could be a problem too. I know my Mondeo had some kind of stoppers fitted on the steering rack to stop it from turning enough to make the wheels rub.
215/50 R17 tyres would be ideal if you went with 17" wheels. Only 0.8% extra diameter so the speedo wouldn't be affected much.
If you pump in the tyre size then it'll list alternate tyre sizes for different sized rims. There's also a comparison tab where you can enter two different tyre sizes and it'll list the overall difference as well as the impact it'll have on your speedo readings. You want to keep the diameter as close as possible. It came in handy when I was changing my Mondeo's 19" wheels out for 17" wheels.
You're probably best off going for 16" or 17" wheels. 18" and 19" give a harsher ride and the extra width could be a problem too. I know my Mondeo had some kind of stoppers fitted on the steering rack to stop it from turning enough to make the wheels rub.
215/50 R17 tyres would be ideal if you went with 17" wheels. Only 0.8% extra diameter so the speedo wouldn't be affected much.
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Associate
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MOT requires the bodywork to be the outer part of the car. wider tyres (and wrong offset) can cause the edge of the tyres to sit outside the bodywork (even if it doesn't rub when driving) and thus be a MOT fail. Even if they're not outside the car, tyres that sit close to the bodywork can rub against the arches when the suspension flexes, so you might need to roll the arches to make more space...
The speedo works on the fitted wheel (alloy + tyre) diameter. Its a MOT fail if the speedo reads less than the real speed and more than 10% (i think) over. So, when changing alloy you need to pay attention to the profile (the 2nd number) to ensure the total wheel diameter is v similar, and certainly not much bigger, which could cause it to under-read.
Yup - bigger alloys cost more and require lower profile tyres, which also cost more. You also have heavier wheels which arguably reduce performance, and the lower the tyre profile the harsher the ride (less air in the tyres to act as compliance) and more risk of curbing the alloy (more exposed and closer to the curbs). But... the smaller the alloy, and bigger tyre profile, the more tyre flex and less handling and manoeuvrability.
Generally, car designers choose a good alloy/tyre for the car they've designed... Family car will have bigger profile to make the ride smother and a sports car will be less to get better handling at the expense of ride quality. The designers are paid good money and spend even more money on research and testing - so you have to accept there might be a reason why the car is fitted with a size of alloy v v different to what you think it should have.
The speedo works on the fitted wheel (alloy + tyre) diameter. Its a MOT fail if the speedo reads less than the real speed and more than 10% (i think) over. So, when changing alloy you need to pay attention to the profile (the 2nd number) to ensure the total wheel diameter is v similar, and certainly not much bigger, which could cause it to under-read.
Yup - bigger alloys cost more and require lower profile tyres, which also cost more. You also have heavier wheels which arguably reduce performance, and the lower the tyre profile the harsher the ride (less air in the tyres to act as compliance) and more risk of curbing the alloy (more exposed and closer to the curbs). But... the smaller the alloy, and bigger tyre profile, the more tyre flex and less handling and manoeuvrability.
Generally, car designers choose a good alloy/tyre for the car they've designed... Family car will have bigger profile to make the ride smother and a sports car will be less to get better handling at the expense of ride quality. The designers are paid good money and spend even more money on research and testing - so you have to accept there might be a reason why the car is fitted with a size of alloy v v different to what you think it should have.
Thank you. I guess with the MOT you can just take off the alloys and put the EOM wheels back on, and bring the car back the next day if it's an issue.
Good point though, I was thinking larger alloys but yea, maybe not go too far over stock, maybe 1" more, I will check though to ensure the overall size remains as close as possible, I watched some YouTube and another point I found is that it can potentially mess your ABS/TC if the overall wheel size is different. Plus the gear ratios (as technically your wheel is your final gear) it's just generally a really bad idea.
The lower profile appeals, they look better and also I'll take handling over comfort to a point, but...i dont like the idea of a very low profile for the street, hit a bad pothole or something, not much cushion there, could ruin your day.
I must admit though, there is way more to this then I thought.
Soldato
If you do get aftermarket alloys make sure you get some spigot rings for them, they adapt the centre bore of the alloy wheel to fit snugly on to the hub. Without them you put all the stress on the wheel bolts which aren't really designed to support the weight of the vehicle, they're there to hold the wheel tight on to the hub.
Also for handling and comfort generally go for a higher profile tyre for use on the road, so if it comes with 16" i'd probably only go up to 17" as you'll just ruin the ride and handling.
For example the car i'm currently driving is a suzuki swift sport which comes with 17" alloys but they ride and handle much better if you go down to 15" especially if you're doing track days in them.
Also for handling and comfort generally go for a higher profile tyre for use on the road, so if it comes with 16" i'd probably only go up to 17" as you'll just ruin the ride and handling.
For example the car i'm currently driving is a suzuki swift sport which comes with 17" alloys but they ride and handle much better if you go down to 15" especially if you're doing track days in them.
Soldato
I remember some years ago, probably 25 now eek!! I changed the wheels on my celica from 14 to 17. I was aiming for 16, but they were oos, the garage did me a deal and did the 17s for the same price (rims and tyres which was a great deal)
On the drive home for the first time I managed to connect the wheels to the insides of the arches going over a bump. was a lovely sound! (not)
Over the next 1000 miles or so they gradually rolled the arches themselves so they no longer made contact
Going to see the car on Saturday, in all honestly provided I dont spot anything obviously wrong with it, I'll probably buy it.
So, I found these alloys:
https://www.wheelbasealloys.com/alloy-wheels/ats/emotion/black/17-inch/volvo/s60/2nd-gen
The fittings should match exactly, although the standard rim size is 7" wide, this is 7.5" wide, everything else matches exactly including the offset (the website says 32 - 55) the volvo is 50, so I guess they inlcude spacers?
The only thing I dont know is with regards to this :
How would you find that out? I definately do not want them putting the weight on the wheels bolts.
The tyre size will be almost identical after also, changes a 205/60/16 to a 215/50/17 - this throws the speedo out by like .5 mph at 70mph, I can definately live with that, in my experience car speedos arn't that accurate anyway. Other than that, yes they are half an inch (10mm at the tyre) wider, but I suspect I'll get away with that, I'll eyeball the clearance with the stock wheels, but 10mm your talking 5mm each side, pretty tiny amount.
Waht do you guys think?
So, I found these alloys:
https://www.wheelbasealloys.com/alloy-wheels/ats/emotion/black/17-inch/volvo/s60/2nd-gen
The fittings should match exactly, although the standard rim size is 7" wide, this is 7.5" wide, everything else matches exactly including the offset (the website says 32 - 55) the volvo is 50, so I guess they inlcude spacers?
The only thing I dont know is with regards to this :
How would you find that out? I definately do not want them putting the weight on the wheels bolts.
The tyre size will be almost identical after also, changes a 205/60/16 to a 215/50/17 - this throws the speedo out by like .5 mph at 70mph, I can definately live with that, in my experience car speedos arn't that accurate anyway. Other than that, yes they are half an inch (10mm at the tyre) wider, but I suspect I'll get away with that, I'll eyeball the clearance with the stock wheels, but 10mm your talking 5mm each side, pretty tiny amount.
Waht do you guys think?
Soldato
There will be specs of the new alloys saying that the centre bore is (it's usually really big on aftermarket alloys so they'll fit anything like 70+mm) then you need to look up online what the centre bore is of your car, there are several websites which list this but not all of them do so have a look around. Looks like it might well be 63.4mm on some of the S60's, then go to eBay or similar and search for spigot rings to suite the 2 sizes, they just sit nicely in the centre hole to keep the wheel centred and spread the load correctly. It's weird that so many people don't bother with them when they're less than £10 and make everything way safer.
You can always just measure it yourself with a pair of cheap calipers, that's what i've had to do on some aftermarket wheels i got with a car as i couldn't find any info online.
Looking at the information on that website is does have a section regarding centrebore and spigot rings, I am relatively sure they supply them with the wheels (I will of course check before purchase) if so that is ideal.
Otherwise euro car parts sell them they are dirt cheap, the only thing is that you want to make sure you get the exact fit, as even a fraction of a mil out for something like that is not going to be good.
Otherwise euro car parts sell them they are dirt cheap, the only thing is that you want to make sure you get the exact fit, as even a fraction of a mil out for something like that is not going to be good.
Spoke to Tesco car insurance, they said they don't care about the alloys, just call them so they can note on the thet system, but it doesn't affect the cost/policy at all.
Soldato
Wouldn't it be cheaper and less hassle just to buy a T4 in the first place?
Lol yea, probably. Too late now, pick the car up on Friday.
I was somewhat underwhelmed by the power considering it's nearly 50hp on top of my old car, that 300kg really makes the difference.
I do think I got a good deal though considering the car only has 15k on it, I just hope it ain't a lemon.
Soldato
Look for some used genuine wheels and get them refurbished in black or whatever colour you want, rather than buying terrible aftermarket wheels. It'll probably cost less and you can be sure of fit.
eg https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/pdf/c30/C30PDFPriceListMY08.pdf - page 3 - 17" Serapis are similar to (and IMO nicer than) the 5 spokes you posted earlier.
or https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-X-VOLV...350661?hash=item287a961f85:g:9K8AAOSwfypcnj82 (overrpiced for used wheels IMO - probably drop on some for £150 a set (with little/no tyre life left) if you can wait
Aftermarket is good if you know what you're after, for eg, a specific design of lightweight wheels, but there are so many rubbish brands out there.
eg https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/pdf/c30/C30PDFPriceListMY08.pdf - page 3 - 17" Serapis are similar to (and IMO nicer than) the 5 spokes you posted earlier.
or https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-X-VOLV...350661?hash=item287a961f85:g:9K8AAOSwfypcnj82 (overrpiced for used wheels IMO - probably drop on some for £150 a set (with little/no tyre life left) if you can wait
Aftermarket is good if you know what you're after, for eg, a specific design of lightweight wheels, but there are so many rubbish brands out there.
Anyone familiar with Alutec?
https://m.wheelbasealloys.com/alloy-wheels/alutec/raptr/matt-black/18-inch/volvo/s60/2nd-gen
The ATS ones I was looking at have a silver trim around which I dont like.
Also think I'll be brave and go for 18".
https://m.wheelbasealloys.com/alloy-wheels/alutec/raptr/matt-black/18-inch/volvo/s60/2nd-gen
The ATS ones I was looking at have a silver trim around which I dont like.
Also think I'll be brave and go for 18".
Associate
Most aftermarket alloys are just cheap tat with an expensive label and Dam heavy because the alloy used is as soft as melted Toffee!so they have to "butch" the wheels up or fail!
Want some decent wheels look at likes of OZ's top end or Speedline Compomotive was good when got mine they worked out cheaper than TSW crap they was far lighter stronger had metal inserts/beds for bolts and had shallow wheel well so when going with bigger brakes or alloys they was saying had to go with x and i'd had 280mm discs which had room to party inside unlike the standard alloys which would be close and aftermarket would rub but when it meant was when had a flat tyre could still drive ok! tyre stayed on rim as had a tyre cut on the rear from think glass bottle? as went round a bend drove half mile odd flat was only slight noise that drew me to check. Mind Elite tyres squealed didn't like them as wouldn't stock as said hard to get tyres on rims lol mind picked up one of there this is good alloy thought had picked whole stack up as nearly broke me back! yet two of mine was probably same weight as one of theres!
If buying wheels new they should come with spigot rings if they don't or they talk crap to you about not needing walk away as the spigot ring is an essentual part of the wheel as locates wheel onto hub centralising it preventing undue pressure between studs and rim! as rim can move around on hub ending in a failure! plus voids insurance! plus points!
Most insurance isn't worried if your sensible with a like for like it's when had 5x15/165/55/15 and stick 235/4017's etc then they kick up but if volvo to volvo alloys there fine like when had i had Pug alloys on citreon before 15's then it was an option with in the range plus same family as a direct fit and they was fine.
what they worry about is poorly spec'd wheels.
For normal round the houses/town/A roads etc driving stick to 50 plus profile for most cars or compromises comfort and road holding as the tyre does an awful amount of suspension work.
Re quality When ripspeed was going was in there often so knew quite them well specing wheels for a build guy was saying avoid south African alloys as poo! to which i said so you mean those there TSW and others. he was like erm erm.
The better quality alloys are Heat treated so far stronger most are made capable for Group N rallying why have shallow well so if flat can get to end of stage.
Most Speedos under register by a fair amount Check tyre size you have Black circles have a comparator app put your size in and other you like and will give the plus/minus on mine went .5 in width which brings speedo more or less spot on with GPS readings funny thing was Citroen used 185 and pug was 195!
Next your going to ask tyres!!!
Volvo's from a few years back are mostly ford kit as they owned them even the newer ones are a focus off shoot.Ford have various spec's the boost you found can be Intercooler/different type of turbo many are using hybrid/Injectors/ECU/Exhaust with different CAT/ and more. you can re map to provide power where your mostly to want it and a decent one can save fuel also as much is a compromise with cars as it's not what's the best it's what the Bean counters have had the dirty paws on and re spec'd to save a few P.
Know a few that work at fords Dunton get to hear some wild and wacky stories they spec a high tansile bolt and washer for a high stress area yet when in production Bean counters have changed it to mild steel!
Then wonder why get re calls!
Haha, funny you should say that.
Right, after even more digging and trying to find out about brands, I did manage to find some postive right ups about "Ronal" alloys, apparently they are made of good harwearing metal, one website even put them up with OZ and BBS. Unless anyone knows to the contrary?
I found a rim I like, this one:
https://www.rimstyle.com/alloywheels/detail/?car_model_id=1460&year=2013&s=BWtoxaVE
Simple, 5 spoke, satin black, perfect. This website also provides the fitting kit, spigot rings etc
Now, there are 2 options to consider, either the 17" or 18" wheel, the difference in tyre 235/45/17 or 235/40/18 - when checking on a tyre size calculator there is basically no difference in total wheel size. Even the width is damn similar as on the 17" the sides narrow down in to the wheel.
The standard tyre size on the Volvo factory fitted 16" wheels is either 205/60/16 (currently fitted) or 215/55/16, the car came fitted with new tyres, and I suspect evans halshaw put the former size on because they are cheaper. Again, difference between the currently fitted tyre and the two above (17" or 18" options) are basically nil other than obviously width and side profile.
So.........
My heart says go for the 18", my head says 17".
I wish I could test drive them both and see what the difference feels like in real terms.
Decisions..........
Right, after even more digging and trying to find out about brands, I did manage to find some postive right ups about "Ronal" alloys, apparently they are made of good harwearing metal, one website even put them up with OZ and BBS. Unless anyone knows to the contrary?
I found a rim I like, this one:
https://www.rimstyle.com/alloywheels/detail/?car_model_id=1460&year=2013&s=BWtoxaVE
Simple, 5 spoke, satin black, perfect. This website also provides the fitting kit, spigot rings etc
Now, there are 2 options to consider, either the 17" or 18" wheel, the difference in tyre 235/45/17 or 235/40/18 - when checking on a tyre size calculator there is basically no difference in total wheel size. Even the width is damn similar as on the 17" the sides narrow down in to the wheel.
The standard tyre size on the Volvo factory fitted 16" wheels is either 205/60/16 (currently fitted) or 215/55/16, the car came fitted with new tyres, and I suspect evans halshaw put the former size on because they are cheaper. Again, difference between the currently fitted tyre and the two above (17" or 18" options) are basically nil other than obviously width and side profile.
So.........
My heart says go for the 18", my head says 17".
I wish I could test drive them both and see what the difference feels like in real terms.
Decisions..........
It's funny cus the sidewall figure on a tyre is actually a percentage of the width.
So the Mrs Fiesta actually has pretty low profile tyres on the stock rims, her tyres are 195/50/15, but, the physical sidewall amount measured is almost bang on 3"
Where as the physical sidewall amount of the 18" proposed Volvo wheels would be 3.7" or 4.2" on the 17"s. So although the side profile is lower as a percentage because the wheel is bigger the physical amount doesn't reduce in scale with that sidewall figure.
Man I'm learning so much.
I've posted on the Volvo forum also to see if anyone has run an 18" specifically on an S60.
I'm not gonna lie the larger wheel appeals but.. not if you get to the point of detriment to your suspension and risking damage to your rims.
So the Mrs Fiesta actually has pretty low profile tyres on the stock rims, her tyres are 195/50/15, but, the physical sidewall amount measured is almost bang on 3"
Where as the physical sidewall amount of the 18" proposed Volvo wheels would be 3.7" or 4.2" on the 17"s. So although the side profile is lower as a percentage because the wheel is bigger the physical amount doesn't reduce in scale with that sidewall figure.
Man I'm learning so much.
I've posted on the Volvo forum also to see if anyone has run an 18" specifically on an S60.
I'm not gonna lie the larger wheel appeals but.. not if you get to the point of detriment to your suspension and risking damage to your rims.
Associate
Have to ask yourself! how much noise and comfort you like? as lower profiles become very thumpy on the road and on a long drive becomes quite tiring and it's only at high speed they come into there own over higher profile at handling
Also if drive in an area with those dammed "Speed humps" esp those domed types with lower and wider tyres/whhels puts a lot more strain on suspension parts.
Guy round here has an Aero morgan one with V8 they run 5 spoke magnesium wheels where been going over the humps they increase pressure on inside of wheel rim as not a constant across the tyre it has Fractured the rims so all cracked
That's why called "Aspect ratio" 45% of 215=. but another thing with tyres is weight displacement ie something like a Corsa with say 215's on 17/18"'s on a poor wet road at speed is a receipe for a visit into the trees and scenery as the tyres are can't be made to work with the weight of the car so just become skittery sort of similar to an F1 car with tyres cold
Also lower they are the less they like "KERBs"
But you have to choose what your priorities are with car? every day driver used anywhere or more evening/weekend fly about with more just you driving on your own. also how much weight going to carry or tow anything?
Also if drive in an area with those dammed "Speed humps" esp those domed types with lower and wider tyres/whhels puts a lot more strain on suspension parts.
Guy round here has an Aero morgan one with V8 they run 5 spoke magnesium wheels where been going over the humps they increase pressure on inside of wheel rim as not a constant across the tyre it has Fractured the rims so all cracked
That's why called "Aspect ratio" 45% of 215=. but another thing with tyres is weight displacement ie something like a Corsa with say 215's on 17/18"'s on a poor wet road at speed is a receipe for a visit into the trees and scenery as the tyres are can't be made to work with the weight of the car so just become skittery sort of similar to an F1 car with tyres cold
Also lower they are the less they like "KERBs"
But you have to choose what your priorities are with car? every day driver used anywhere or more evening/weekend fly about with more just you driving on your own. also how much weight going to carry or tow anything?
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