Zee Sim Rig

Soldato
Joined
21 Jan 2016
Posts
2,915
Just in case anyone is interested, here's a little blog of my latest endeavour! I figure it's more useful than just posting the end result as it's certainly a learning process... I'm also more than open to suggestions along the way so feel free to add your thoughts.

The brief:

- Build a sim rig for the man cave.

- Dual (well triple) purpose... both for racing and flying/space games.

- Needs to be able to compact up to a reasonable size while still being nice and solid. I won't accept any wobble!

- Must be easy to move around the cave so I can move it out the way as needed.

- Ideally not completely ugly if I can help it since it'll always be visible.

- Upgradable in future.

- primarily for VR but possibility of mounting a screen.

I intend to run this as a 3 stage process. Stage 1 is the general structure to a usable state, and a transducer for haptic feedback. Stage 2 will be fleshing out the haptics possibly with further transducers, a seat belt tensioner, and a G-seat* using pneumatics. Stage 3, which is likely much further down the line, will be to then put the entire thing on actuators like the SFX-100 style rigs for full motion.

*G-seat concept for those that don't know - either mechanically or pneumatically actuated pads in the seat move to apply pressure from beneath/side/back to simulate being pressed into that side of the seat. Haven't tried it but supposedly very effective in VR without needing to go for a full motion platform. Also has the advantage of being able to simulate sustained G, so potentially complementary to a motion platform further down the road.

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Enough waffle!

Here's the 3d design I came up with after a few iterations, I decided to make it mostly from 44x44 planed all round wood (meranti as it happens) and plywood as I thought it would look nicer and I'm currently working on my woodworking skills... you could substitute 40x40 or 45x45mm aluminium profile for the PAR timber at similar cost and a significantly easier build but I have a habit of making my life harder than it really needs to be!

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While working on the geometry:

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The pedal platform is designed to be electronically actuated, and uses some spare HG25 rails and carriages I have had lying around for the last couple years from my CNC builds. They actually aren't overly expensive since you don't need genuine HIWINs for this, but they are potentially overkill... I love overkill though so, whatever.

The upper section is also designed to slide back to allow easier entry/exit and will also be driven by electronic actuators, because its cool. This part is definitely not really necessary, but given for games like star citizen I want to use tablets as MFDs and I think getting in/out may prove tricky without some mechanism to give yourself more space to move.

Anyway, that's the brief overview... more to follow once the little one is in bed!
 
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Pile of 44x44 PAR meranti....

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As mentioned I'm trying to become a little more talented at my woodwork so this time rather than just boshing something together I'm going to try and use a little art. To that end, we're going for proper wood joints rather than butting them together and putting a great big screw through. Should end up in a much more rigid and stronger construction too... This could all be achieved with a hand saw and a chisel but thankfully I have some machinery that helps disguise my lack of talent.

Started with a tenon saw and tidied up with the router:

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I then made this little jig for the table saw which made making the female joints easier, again just tidied up on the router...

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Fit is rather nice!

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With those done time get the side frames made up:

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Check for square

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And tidy up with a flush cutter

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Attached to a piece of 18mm phenolic coated ply (normal ply would do)

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Next up the seat mounting sections...

First I wanted to add an aluminium strip (which I had lying around in my stock pile waiting for an excuse to use!) for the seat slider to sit on, so I just ran a quick slot down it using the router table

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On the underside I added m8 Tee nuts so that the seat has a really firm and strong mount. I made several positions so that there is some adjustability in mounting options... and made some matching holes in the aluminium strip of course

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Then over to the CNC to make a jig for routing out some slots on the top of the side sections for some T-track

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Time to finish off the frame, and the cross struts are going to be glued with dowel pins...

3D printed a drill jig to make sure the dowels go exactly where I want:

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Lines up nicely:

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And with all dowel holes drilled time clamp the whole thing up with some glue and wait!

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Clamps removed and two coats of Osmo Terra applied:

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Made these mount plates that fit the HG25 carriages to the wood side sections:

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And here it's all starting to come together with some heavy duty castors fitted, along with the 40mm extrusion I'm using for the pedal platform and 3D printed corner brackets. Seat mounts and sliders just cheap ones from Ebay!


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Seat fitted, using a Sparco Grid 2 which my parents bought me many moons ago for my birthday when I first thought about making a gaming rig!

Here you can see full extension with seat back and pedals out vs seat slid forward and pedals in for storage.

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And can't keep the wee man out of it:

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I decided to build my own actuator for the pedals... I have a load of CF tube lying around so designed around that. Most of the other parts are 3D printed and then it's just some m8 threaded rod, steel tube, steel rod and some screws.

For this one I turned my own nut on the lathe but for the two that drive the top section I'll be using acme lead screws and just off the shelf brass nuts.

Just because it's fun to see, here's how the nut was made:

Turned down some hex stock and threaded with m8 tap

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Flipped and back side finished:

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Over to the CNC to mill the bolt pattern

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Fitted to the 3D printed bushing and press fit to the steel tube with some sleeve lock to help hold in place

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Final actuator sans motor:

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Geared motor fitted

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SHE VORKS!


Actuator in place:

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Needed to come up with a way to add limit switches to the actuator to make sure it cuts out rather than trying to over drive, so a little head scratching and I came up with this circuit using a DPDT switch

Excuse the child like circuit diagram - I'm not an electronics guy lol

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This circuit allows the actuator to drive forward until hitting the forward limit switch which will then cut off power from that circuit, while still leaving the reverse circuit closed to allow it to drive backwards until hitting the rear limit switch at which point the reverse circuit is opened.


And here are the limit switches installed while testing if the theory works:

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And tidied up with the wires running under the rig

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And a little CF switch box made up to hold the DPDT switch in place:

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Next up the pedal platform just squeezes into the CNC...

I've made mounting patterns for my MFG Crosswinds, my crappy thrustmaster car pedals and also for the Clubsport V3 pedals which I would like to get in the future.

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Oiled and a little laser etched logo, because why not!

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MFG's fitted

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Thrustmaster plastic rubbish fitted:

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Mounting plate for the warthog joystick, whipped up out of SRBP

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For some reason I seem to be lacking photos of the throttle mount but same idea!


Next up is to tackle this big unit after having finalised the design...

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I cut all the parts out of 18mm plywood on the CNC, and for the uprights laminated them together to get the desired thickness

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Headcrab vibes anyone?

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Wheel mounting hardware was next, all 3D printed except for the mount plate itself which is plywood

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Followed by a good oiling

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Fitted (still waiting for some additional SBR20 rail carriages here) and whaddya know, everything is in the right place... please excuse the socks, they are my running socks lol!

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next the transducer arrived... I went for the simulation kit which gives you a buttkicker amp, mini-CT buttkicker and all the required wiring. In retrospect I think I goofed here and I should have just chosen my own amplifier but the simplicity a plug and play kit appealed.

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My main issue with the buttkicker amp is that there is no indication of what volume you have set, and when you power off it goes back to default. That means every time you turn it on you have to dial in the volume to get the feedback to the right level. The second issue is that it's just single channel, and I could have bought a better amp with two outputs and a physical volume dial for similar money, which would have made adding a second transducer easier too... live and learn!

The buttkicker mini-CT is just screwed to the bottom of the chair (the Grid 2's removable cushions are rather handy here):

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To drive the transducer I managed to find some nice software that actually reads the physics data from the game, which seems far superior to using it in audio mode... this also made the buttkicker amp less necessary as I didn't need the high and low pass filters (although still good to have I suppose for games that aren't supported).

For driving games I am using Simhub which seems to cover the vast majority of racing games... technically free to use but if you donate an amount of your choosing you will get access to a higher data refresh rate. This software allows you to choose exactly what effects get represented and tune how they are felt (eg rumble strips, suspension movement, engine strain, gear shift, abs activation etc etc

For IL2 I'm using sim shaker wings, which was about £20 but works fantastically well... again you can choose which effects to represent and their relative strength etc. There's something so amazing about how the old wwii fighters shake into life as your start the engine, the stall buffet as you try and max your turn rates during a dog fight, and the dakka dakka of the guns firing that is just very hard to describe how much it adds in VR especially!

If anyone is on the fence about whether to add a transducer to their rig, do it! I literally can't go back... it feels wrong when it's turned off.

One thing I learned during the tuning process is that less is definitely more, be careful how many effects you throw at a single transducer as you can start to lose definition and it becomes a little "muddy". I don't think I'll go so far as to add a transducer to each corner for localised effects etc but I can definitely see the benefit of a second one just to allow you to separate out some effects and allow them to really shine - eg put the engine vibration on one and road bumps/suspension vibration on another.


And with that we're pretty much caught up to where I'm at. Next on the list is to make the actuators for the steering module and get that wired up, tidy up the joystick/thrust lever wiring and fit a USB Hub underneath for a single point of connection to the PC.
 
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I dont think you need any suggestions. This is coming along very nicely. I would have suggested sticking with aluminium profile for how easy it is to work with and modify. Plus the number of off shelf parts which will fit to it. But, you've done a great job with the woodwork. Just remember if you have loadcell pedals, you can be putting a great deal of force through the brake pedal. Make sure the runners you have the pedal sled on are up for that.
 
Glad you guys like it so far!

I dont think you need any suggestions. This is coming along very nicely. I would have suggested sticking with aluminium profile for how easy it is to work with and modify.

Agreed, but I just fancied something different to all the extrusion builds you see. You aren't wrong though lol.

Just remember if you have loadcell pedals, you can be putting a great deal of force through the brake pedal. Make sure the runners you have the pedal sled on are up for that.

Yeah I designed with load cell forces in mind... these rails and carriages are incredibly strong and rigid, designed for use on CNC machines and load factors way above anything needed here. It will rip the wood frame apart first!

This shows quite well the chunk factor:

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