BMW and M Power Owners

@Jonny ///M I used a guy down next to the 911 recovery place, justoff the M74. Stupid quote to replace a parking sensor from Parks, he replaced it and did a brake fluid change for less than half the price, guy was excellent.

Visiosted instead of calling, diagnostic (no charge) instantly when he was working on another car, booked me in for a few weeks after that.

Bimmerman in Glasgow
 
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DJMK4 said:
Because after time it will cause havoc on the starter motor. And it will increase the chances of it dying (happened with my old car and had to have it replaced )

Not only that it's bloody annoying
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Restarting during a stop / start cycle isn't the same as starting from cold. The engine is stopped just before the ignition point of the compression cycle, so just needs a slight tip-over to get things started again. Some Mazdas can restart without using the starter motor at all.
 
Speaking of stop/start, my car no longer engages it, ever. Sign of a faltering battery?
I have the driving info screen thorugh the android app, and highest I've seen recently for the 'ACC battery' percentage is 33. Few months ago I saw 40-50.
 
ShivP said:
Speaking of stop/start, my car no longer engages it, ever. Sign of a faltering battery?
I have the driving info screen thorugh the android app, and highest I've seen recently for the 'ACC battery' percentage is 33. Few months ago I saw 40-50.
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Mines the same, I assume it’s the battery as I know it’s not in good shape.
 
DJMK4 said:
Then how are you going to know if you have a fault.?
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Because there will be an actual tangible problem to worry about.

If you scan the car and it says there's a fault code on the electric window, if the window is still operating as expected, they'll not be interested in authorising any work. If the electric window isn't opening, or it makes weird noises etc. then they'd pay attention.

You'll run into a "boy who cried wolf" situation with your local dealers if you turn up every time a scan shows you a funny looking code. The day you turn up because the gearbox is grinding and jumping out of gear, you'll wonder why they fob you off thinking it's just your next vehicular hypochondria episode.
 
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ShivP said:
Speaking of stop/start, my car no longer engages it, ever. Sign of a faltering battery?
I have the driving info screen thorugh the android app, and highest I've seen recently for the 'ACC battery' percentage is 33. Few months ago I saw 40-50.
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ASS needs quite a few variables to work. Battery charge, oil/coolant temp, outside temp, cabin temp, AC state, and others I probably don't know about.

Generally speaking though, with the battery lacking sufficient juice, ASS will definitely not stop the engine.

If the stop/start symbol appears with the cross, then ASS is prepared to stop the engine, but all conditions haven't been met for it to do so.
 
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aaronyuri said:
ASS needs quite a few variables to work. Battery charge, oil/coolant temp, outside temp, cabin temp, AC state, and others I probably don't know about.

Generally speaking though, with the battery lacking sufficient juice, ASS will definitely not stop the engine.
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Interesting. When I bought the car ~2.5 years ago, I remember it being very aggressive i.e. engaging even within 3/4 minutes of driving from cold. It hasn't engaged since late December 2025, though.

Anyone know if the battery would need coding to the car? Probably would just buy a Halfords special, but unsure if I can code it...
 
LiE said:
New to BMW and service is due in April so looking what is needed. Inspection and brake fluid it seems. What does inspection include? I cannot see it online when trying to book it.

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It's just the MOT. That is when your car is 3 years old. This used to be clearer in older idrive versions, a little sneaky from BMW to prey on people's ignorance and make it sound like a service item.

Vehicle check is the actual service item at 4 years and coincides with every second oil service.

You should be able to go in and set the vehicle inspection date to whatever you want. It acts more as an MOT reminder.
 
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MarkeR said:
@Jonny ///M I used a guy down next to the 911 recovery place, justoff the M74. Stupid quote to replace a parking sensor from Parks, he replaced it and did a brake fluid change for less than half the price, guy was excellent.

Visiosted instead of calling, diagnostic (no charge) instantly when he was working on another car, booked me in for a few weeks after that.

Bimmerman in Glasgow
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Cheers mate. I

t was BM Mini in yoker I'd looked at but it's a bit of a distance from East Kilbride so this guy might be a better shout.
 
muon said:
It's just the MOT. That is when your car is 3 years old. This used to be clearer in older idrive versions, a little sneaky from BMW to prey on people's ignorance and make it sound like a service item.

Vehicle check is the actual service item at 4 years and coincides with every second oil service.

You should be able to go in and set the vehicle inspection date to whatever you want. It acts more as an MOT reminder.
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Ah ok, MOT is due April too. Sounds like I just need an MOT and brake fluid service this year.
 
ShivP said:
Interesting. When I bought the car ~2.5 years ago, I remember it being very aggressive i.e. engaging even within 3/4 minutes of driving from cold. It hasn't engaged since late December 2025, though.

Anyone know if the battery would need coding to the car? Probably would just buy a Halfords special, but unsure if I can code it...
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The battery needs to be registered after fitting - not coded. It's something you could delay if needed and have somewhere else to do the registration. Coded is a term that is thrown around a lot, but it is very much a service item and logged each time a new battery is registered and when.

However, if you fit a battery with a significantly smaller/larger Ah output, that certainly needs coding. If it's, say, a 93Ah battery instead of a 95Ah, the BMS won't care. But if you put in a 75Ah that wouldn't go down well with the BMS. The BMS likes to know what the amperage of the battery is and when it battery is new.

There is a risk of overcharging the battery if the new battery isn't registered but that's not something that would happen in a few journeys.
 
Been thinking about it more and more, i am not sure if im going to go down the extended warrenty route, may just stick money aside in an account, combined for emergency and for service funds
 
ShivP said:
Speaking of stop/start, my car no longer engages it, ever. Sign of a faltering battery?
I have the driving info screen thorugh the android app, and highest I've seen recently for the 'ACC battery' percentage is 33. Few months ago I saw 40-50.
Click to expand...

Stop start not working anymore is almost always the sign of a battery which isn't charged to the required level. This can be either because its old and requires replacement or because you've just not done very many long trips lately to put charge back into the battery. There are other variables as well which can stop it working, such as demand on the engine, outside temperature and so on but practically speaking these are things that affect it during a journey not the entire journey. If you can drive for 20-30 minutes and never have stop start work then your battery is probably the cause.

If you do lots of short trips or don't use the car much its probably just low charge. If you do, then maybe it needs a new battery soon.
 
Just wondering if anyone has suffered the same issue. On my car (iDrive 7), driving along and the sound from the hifi gets muted and the volume knob or the buttons on the steering wheel no longer work so its stuck on mute and doesnt clear. The only way to clear it is to stop, turn the ignition off, open the door so it turns itself off and when it gets started it again its fine. This has happened a couple of times now. Then the other day I get a message flash up to say the cameras stopped working and when I tried parking the cameras didnt work but it reset itself after turning off the ignition etc. like the hifi issue.

Just wondering if its a software glitch or is something more fundamental. Quite happy to take it to the dealer to get it fixed under warranty but if its a software glitch and only happens every now and then theres nothing to fix.
 
Bear said:
On my car (iDrive 7), driving along and the sound from the hifi gets muted and the volume knob or the buttons on the steering wheel no longer work so its stuck on mute and doesnt clear. The only way to clear it is to stop, turn the ignition off, open the door so it turns itself off and when it gets started it again its fine.
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Also iDrive 7 - I've had similar where the media buttons on the steering wheel stop working so you can't skip track or adjust volume, but it's never muted itself. Likewise, restarting the car has fixed it. It's only done it once, maybe twice in 2 years so I've not had it inspected.
 
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GravyMonster said:
Also iDrive 7 - I've had similar where the media buttons on the steering wheel stop working so you can't skip track or adjust volume, but it's never muted itself. Likewise, restarting the car has fixed it. It's only done it once, maybe twice in 2 years so I've not had it inspected.
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Cheers, its sounding more like a software glitch, a pain in the backside but nothing to get concerned about. Maybe I need a code reader :cry:
 
Mot passed. First advisories in my near five years with the car so cannot complain too much. Front discs and front and rear pads ordered. Only a single front disc got marked down but it’s never had discs done in my ownership so will get those swapped and I wanted to keep the pads all on the same lifecycle so the rears are cheap enough to get done at the same time. All ordered from autodoc. Tyres in a few months time once the quarterly bonus hits too. It also got pinged on a suspension arm pin so will ask mechanic about that too. Likely a cheap fix as well.
 
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