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I got mine for £95 too! Bargain! Sold my basic TX650 watt psu in the process. I’ll have to check out those cable extenders if I do move to a micro ATX machine.

I won’t sell mine either. I don’t need an ITX build anymore but it’s a great psu so why replace it?

It might be on the packaging too.

You can get most RAM working with a motherboard, QVL as you discovered is just tested working RAM. Go with the 6600 MT/ Cl 32 RAM, it’ll be really good and you won’t notice much difference between any of the options you were looking at.

Ok. Didn’t see that bit. Not sure then, sorry man.

Yeah, it’ll be fine. I’ve seen people use their old installation with a completely different chipset and not have an issue. It shouldn’t work but it does.

Save the money, you don’t need pci-e 5.0 It makes zero difference to performance.

Have you updated the BIOS?

Memory usage was fine with the 16gig kit, the dual rank kit was 5 to 8 fps faster in games. I managed to tweak the timings and get it to ~10 fps faster. The single rank kit was fine, it was just not as fast.

I don’t stress too much. Reputable sellers often will not sell a GPU in poor condition. I’ve bought and sold so many off various forums to not really worry about it. I’ll ask for pics and if it’s covered in finger prints and dust, I won’t buy it. I’ll also buy well reviewed older models...

Get 2 by 16gig Patriot Viper Steel 3200 or 3600. It’s Samsung B die.

Try get your tertiary timings down a bit - you’ll notice a difference. That being said, it does sound like you’re fighting either a weird BIOS or a bad mem controller.

Tetras echos my thoughts too - A620 is ok but for a tiny bit more you get more for your money. Don’t stress about pci-e 5.0 or high end functions even if people will say you should - it makes zero difference.

It’s more than likely a bug in the BIOS. Definitely update the BIOS. It’s easy and you have BIOS flashback so you can flash a BIOS even if the BIOS update goes wrong (which I’ve done personally). I’ll never get another motherboard without it - it saves so much pain and effort over having to...

It's probably a mixture of both if you're not sure what they use. It shouldn't make a huge difference either way, as long as it's Hynix it should be good enough. I would probably just go watch a Buidzoid RAM buying guide and then buy whatever he says is probably A or M die. He knows how to...

It's fine. It's not worth the hassle of swapping it out. You won't notice a huge difference. If you want, set the timings to manual and drop the values by 1 click and see if that improves anything. Then try 2 clicks. (eg CL 15 - 15 - 15 - 40 becomes 13 - 13 - 13 - 40). You can also look at...

I had a 2 by 8gig 3600 CL14 kit and replaced it with a 2 by 16gig 3200 CL17 kit which was noticeably faster. It did help that the 32gig kit was dual rank. 16gigs of RAM just isn’t enough these days for a lot of gamers - even using Chrome can eat a lot of RAM and RAM is so cheap.

Stick with what you’ve got for now. Tetras has given you good advice - if it works, it’s fine. You might see an improvement by going for faster ram with tighter timings but it’s largely just spending that much more for diminishing gains. If you were to upgrade, get a 48gig kit at 6400 MT/s...

Any of these will do. You don’t need to overthink RAM, it’s all pretty good and you’ll see a small difference in performance between slower and faster kits. Have a look at the Kingston Fury kit and see if that’s still using Hynix, last time I checked it was. Check Reddit...

You’ll need to check Reddit or review sources because all of the brands mix and match between Hynix, Samsung, Micron etc I know that TeamGroup has the name Hynix in the product description on some of their retailer websites (I cannot link to a competitors website). If you’re not going to...