I'm wiling to lend my monitor calibrator
- Thread starter Phate
- Start date
Man of Honour
Try variations of calibration software, when I had the Spyder 2 the results were 50/50 - the i1Display2 with Lacie BlueEyePro software gets superior results I found.
I also tries free calibration software such as ColorEyes which was very good but more fiddly.
Try different software I say and see the differences
Precalibrate first remember, Set the OSD to 6500k and use the fine tune feature (or view current values or whatever it's called) of your calibration software to manually adjust contrast and brightness as close to 120cd/m2 as possible then look at the black level and white saturation tests on
http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/black.php
and
http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/white.php
If you can see as many squares as possible then you're set to go. On mine before calibration I can see all on the black test and all but the last 3 on the ****e saturation test.
The screen WILL look dark if you pre-calibrate to 120cd/m2 manually, this is normal, you will adjust to it
Then run the calibration software skipping any sections that ask you to adjust brightness or white balance and just do the main calibration.
My results improve each time I run calibration every few months. Now on 0.39 for black level with a level RGB graph and 120cd/m2 with 2.2 gamma.
I recommend all this because it's taken me a long time to get the perfect method and the results are really amazing compared to just plugging in and running the auto wizard (which is better than no calibration but...why wizard it and get half the result
).
I also tries free calibration software such as ColorEyes which was very good but more fiddly.
Try different software I say and see the differences
Precalibrate first remember, Set the OSD to 6500k and use the fine tune feature (or view current values or whatever it's called) of your calibration software to manually adjust contrast and brightness as close to 120cd/m2 as possible then look at the black level and white saturation tests on
http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/black.php
and
http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/white.php
If you can see as many squares as possible then you're set to go. On mine before calibration I can see all on the black test and all but the last 3 on the ****e saturation test.
The screen WILL look dark if you pre-calibrate to 120cd/m2 manually, this is normal, you will adjust to it
Then run the calibration software skipping any sections that ask you to adjust brightness or white balance and just do the main calibration.
My results improve each time I run calibration every few months. Now on 0.39 for black level with a level RGB graph and 120cd/m2 with 2.2 gamma.
I recommend all this because it's taken me a long time to get the perfect method and the results are really amazing compared to just plugging in and running the auto wizard (which is better than no calibration but...why wizard it and get half the result
).
I've had to start using my ip4200 to print all sorts but I loose detail in everything because all my prints come out to dark. It's probably because there are about 4 types of gloss and I'm using some ryman paper but it's probably also because I have avoided calibrating I'm guessing.
I spose I'll make sure I use my macbook as my main rig now but after I've done some more research, a lot more mind you, I'll have to take you up on this!
I spose I'll make sure I use my macbook as my main rig now but after I've done some more research, a lot more mind you, I'll have to take you up on this!
Soldato
Sounds like a plan mate
Soldato
Very kind offer, I'd be keen to have a rental
Associate
I may also be up for this. I am in Cheshire, so I could collect from stone fairly easily.
Soldato
I have created a new thread offering my spyder 2 express http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18069849