first custom loop

cowello

cowello

cowello

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Joined
1 Apr 2012
Posts
116
Location
Warwick UK
Devoted forum users may remember my previous rants about the corsair h60 and h80 units. I've had bad luck with both. Time has come to just make the jump to a custom loop. Sent both faulty units back for refunds.

I'm looking at something like this. Max budget is £150 really

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-170-EK&groupid=962&catid=1532&subcat=

I already have 2 NF-F12 noctua rad fans so don't need the fans it comes with...

Could I build a better loop ordering my own parts separately? I think 120mm rad is a bit pointless on a custom loop right? I'm cooling a 2500K @4.5Ghz only..no GPU. I can fit a 240mm rad.

I like the look of the full metal blocks EK do

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-080-EK&groupid=962&catid=1519&subcat=

but I know that there may be problems with mixing metals or something... rads might not be made out of the same stuff right?

Just want to get this right and not spend money I don't have to.


Cheers
 
what setup and temps? I think i'd rather go for somethign a bit better than that. Rad looks thin :s Rather get something with a bit more kick!
 
hmm ..with h60 and stock fans I had 2500k 28-30 idle and 55 load

now h80 nf-f12 fans i had 35 idle 58-60 full load


....look slike custom loop would be miles better...with your stats
 
What case do you have?
Are you going to mount the RAD internally or externally?
Will you be adding the GPU later on
(watercooling is a rabbit hole - some times you cant find an end to it, so even if you don't have plans now, it might be some thing you want to think about!)
 
I have an antec 1200 and a coolermaster elite 430. Currently set up in the antec 1200. I can mount a 240 rad internally on antec case or externally on elite 430. Was thinking of moving my kit back into the small elite 430 case and having the rad on top? Will add a water'd GPU but not for 4-6 months.
 
Personally, I'd recommend the Phobya 2.120 rads, Laing D5 based pumps and Gentle Typhoon 1850 / Scythe Jyuni 1900 fans.

I've found that the Phobya rads just perform best for me and the Jyuni's are fine when their speed is controlled.
 
NO i don;t have the pump :( All i have in terms of watercooling is a H80 with noctua nf-f12's ....but the h80 is faulty....gonna send it back as i did previously with a H60. Had two faulty units now....hence why I want to do the loop myself!
 
Fans: http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FG-022-SY&groupid=701&catid=57&subcat=4

Pump: You choose! D5's are a great workhorse, but there are so many nowadays!

Radiator: http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-160-EK&groupid=962&catid=1523&subcat=

Make sure that if you buy barbs, that you also get some jubilee clips. I never really did trust the push together type - I've never had a problem with them, I just don;t trust water in a rig... http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-093-PM&groupid=962&catid=1530&subcat=
 
cowello said:
NO i don;t have the pump :( All i have in terms of watercooling is a H80 with noctua nf-f12's ....but the h80 is faulty....gonna send it back as i did previously with a H60. Had two faulty units now....hence why I want to do the loop myself!
Click to expand...

Ok - you need to add a pump to your shopping list too - you might be better off looking at the list of items in OCUK's £194 water cool build list and go from there...
 
You can fit a 240/360 RAD where the front drive bays are of Antec 1200.
Also with a little bit of ingenuity a 240 slim RAD on top as well! ;)
(I know because I have done it)
 
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There are 4 metal strips - 2 long and 2 short - (I used 4 L shaped brackets from the local hardware shop and straighten them) connected to the 4 fan fitting holes of the top side of the RAD.
Connected to the RAD using 4 x M4 screws - 5mm(M4 because my RAD used M4 screw but others use M3 as well)
Long strips are on the far side from the inlet & outlet and the short ones are at the near side.
Screws are not fully tightened on the 2 shorter strips, so the strips can be retracted towards the RAD.
There is a ledge between the top cover and the metal part of the case.(You will have to remove the top and front of the case any way)
RAD is inserted with the Long strips fully tightned and long strip side first.
Then using a screw driver from the top fan grill I can extend the shorter strips and tighten the screws.

All 4 strips have double sided tape(stuff that holds RADs) on them so they will stick to the ledge and RAD will not move!

It is easier than it sounds :)


I also had a 240 RAD in the front

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