I ordered the generic 1/2" ID 3/4" OD compression fittings, simply because the cost of bitspower is way too high for me! and compression fittings look much nicer than barbs (for me at least)
I received the Phobya Compression Fittings instead of the generic once! Still to this day there is a shortage of this size fittings in UK it seems.
Fans for the RAD was a choice between the Yate Loons and F12's.
I have heard a lot of good things about yate loons, but on paper the F12's looked better so I opted for them.
Needed just 2 120mm fans for the RS240 RAD I was ordering, but I had thought of replacing the xigmatic fan on the side panel on my Antec 1200 case, so I ordered 3.
Initially I was going to mount the rad in the rear 2 fans, but as I realised after the parts arrived, it would not be possible with out modding parts of the side panel.
Didn't want to lose the side fan or to cut off part of the fan retention clip as suggested to me, so after some more work I could mount the rad to the front of the case with out modding the case.
Masterkleer 1/2" ID - 3/4" OD (13-19mm) Flexible Tubing
2 meters should have been more than enough for my size of a loop but this is my first time so I had to order more just in case!
I had to wait 2 more days just for the res top to arrive! Oh the pain and suffering of waiting just for 1 piece of this jigsaw to arrive!
It was a choice between going for bay reservoir or a separate one. I needed space in the 5 1/4 bays for a the HDD(s). RS240 rad already taking 7 bays from the bottom, I am only left with 4 excluding the DVDRW drive.
Had to do a lot of measuring and research on the Radiator before ordering.
I was going to fit it to the rear 2 120mm fans but as it turned out I over looked the part where it interferes with the side panel. fan retention to be exact!
Even with rotary fittings i could not fit this in to the rear fans.
Also it seems the case fan mounting holes would not completely align with both of the fans and rad!
before fitting the rad to the loop I did clean it about 8 times with hot Deionised water and then one last time flushed it with Distilled water.
Doing a cocktail shake thingy!
After about 4th time I could not see any particles in the water any ways.
Laing DDC-1+ Ultra Pump 600 L/hr 18W (MCP355) : DDC-1+ T
Was not sure of the heat and noise generated from this pump as there were some mentions in the forums.
So I ordered a damper kit as well - didn't need to use it though! It is soooo silent!
Only time it was noticeable was when leak testing and because of all the air inside the components it made some noise.
I can still hear it if I get about 2 inches close to the pump! Thats an improvement from Titan Fenrir!
EK Supreme HF Full Nickel
Was going for a full copper, but after seeing JeffyB's cool project, convinced me otherwise!
Fixed the CPU block in my ageing GA P35C DS3R.
Soon to be replaced by Asus P5Q Deluxe or P5E Deluxe.
Not a good shot of the rad but this is how it would be mounted.
Couldn't get more pics of the fans attached to the rad - I actually forgot about taking pics!
Leak testing
Connected the pump and fans to an old PSu - using the paper clip jump start method.
It was too noisy at start of the leak testing and bleeding process, so I had to take it to the living room to run over night.
This is only just a little bit of tissue in the pic but I used a lot of it at the beginning along with some towels as well, just to be safe!
Cant really see the rad since it is fixed to the front bottom drive bays of the case.
Only the bottom fan cage is attached to the rad - which holds it firmly to the case. Other fan cage would not align with the holes of the rad.
Alos I fixed 2 of the stock antec fans to the back of the rad so it works as push/pull configuration.
Managed to get the fan controlling knobs to the default position in the front of the fan cage as well.
2 front fans are F12's - they connect to the motherboard pwm header and auto speed adjusted by speed fan.
I could have made the loop shorter by reducing the tubing length, but I wanted to be able to take the pump-res combo out of the case so that it is easy to bleed out if I need to. Also rad can be taken out of the case with out disconnecting the tubes inside.
Since I dont have that much restriction in my loop I guess this would be ok.
After about 8 hours or running the loop all the visible bubbles seem to be clear. And the pump was near silent as well.
This is the least favourite part of the whole thing! Cable tiding!