10A Fuse Blowing Taking Out Indicators/Dash CBR600F 1999

pugheaven

pugheaven

pugheaven

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Well, the only thing that's changed is I've got a new battery I put on this morning... Motobatt YTX9-BS... now, this is meant to be fine with my bike and a cracking quality battery replacing the cheap **** I had in it beforehand, BUT just wondering, this battery delivers 10.5Ah instead of the 8.0Ah my Haynes Manual says for the battery...

Could this be causing a problem? None of the other fuses have gone... just this one... and with it go the indicators, all dashboard lights/dials... and trip computer. Put new one in 3 times today... 1 went within 2 minutes, 1 lasted for a few hours, however, I've noticed it when I tank it, and I mean tank it from 2nd gear... noticed it seems to go then, might be coincidence?

Either way, any ideas, could a battery do this to one particular fuse? And does this 10.5A delivery fo the new battery make a difference? Can't think of anything else, checked all the wiring it's fine... and like I say, 3 fuses, all lasting different times BUT I would say they've gone when tanking it.
 
Honda CBR600F 1999.... however douible checked this morning. Put a new fuse in, ran normally for 10 minutes not going above 8k rpm.... then one a straight opened Eric up and over 10k rpm and poof, fuse went. Replaced, ran fine again, did same thing...

So, in conclusion it's 100% when I tank the bike... very very odd. Now, the only things I did yesterday were

1). Replace battery, so will double check not snagged anything and maybe the force of the bike is jolting something.

2). Messed around with wiring to back light, as one of the break lights isn't working... bulb is fine, switched wirtes around to doubel check. Now, I wonder as it's got LED's on the rear, whether I've dislodged something here and it's shorting somewhere possibly when I tank it?

However, going to read about the regulator/rectifier thing now and see what's what once I've double checked all the wiring.
 
4T5 said:
Are you sure the bike was perfect before the battery swap ? Did you go over 10k when you first had it ?
Also the LED's worry me as I have read that you need to change something when fitting those or it blows stuff. Sorry I can't be more accurate it was just something I read whilst reading everything I could find about bikes.
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Good question and can't be 100% sure although sure I have... certainly been over 10k this week before the fuses started going. Working from home today, so when I get a chance, gonna do a quick check of all the wiring to the LED's in the rear, make sure I've not dislodged something when putting my chain/lock under the seat yesterday and when I was checking the bulb.
 
No not washed it, well, only light hand washed as it was spotless, never seen the rain lol... but didn't look like it had been washed when I received it. Will check everything out over dinner hour ;-) Will report back!
 
Right, update, as one of the brake lights wasn't working on the rear, I took out, cleaned the connection out, WD40, wipe off and slotted the bulb back in... hey presto both rear brake lights work now. So, double checked all the connectors, put some leccy tape around any connectors for the resisters I presume for the rear LED's and wrapped up nicely in the rear under the seat. Put everything back on... lets see what happens. Couldn't see any lose wires though so... fingers crossed, Will be going out in 30 minutes ;-)
 
Perfect, opened Ric up multiple times over 10k rpm and ran sweet as a nut... so, looks like wires were touching under hard acceleration and shorting something. Cheers guys!
 
Scythe said:
Sounds like you're regulator / rectifier has failed. This is what controls the electrical power from the alternator to power your bike and charge the battery.

If this fails, there are a few signs :

1 Your battery dies, as it is not being recharged.
2 Your bike is cutting out after a mile or so, even after a fully recharged battery
3 Bulbs etc can blow

Bulbs below because it is failing to regulate the voltage at a specified low voltage or current in order to charge the battery and power your bike's electrics. As your revs increase, it's putting more voltage or current through the bulbs, thereby blowing them, as they are much more sensitive.

Do you use your bike until you have it diagnosed. Using your bike will wreck your battery as it sounds like it is getting completely drained. Take your battery out and recharge it.

Have a look here for a good guide to diagnose a reg / rec, they usually do not take long to replace. http://www.bikersoracle.com/cbr600/forum/showthread.php?t=9544


The battery providing more amps per hour shouldn't cause any problems, it's not significantly higher, it just means it can provide more cranking power to your starter motor.
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You was right, broke down with new battery Monday and it's the rectifier, got a new one plugged in by a great guy called Andy at ACL motorcycles in Oldham near Manchester... would recommend him big time. Eric is now running perfectly...
 
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