10A Fuse Blowing Taking Out Indicators/Dash CBR600F 1999

pugheaven · 25 May 2012 at 00:29

Well, the only thing that's changed is I've got a new battery I put on this morning... Motobatt YTX9-BS... now, this is meant to be fine with my bike and a cracking quality battery replacing the cheap **** I had in it beforehand, BUT just wondering, this battery delivers 10.5Ah instead of the 8.0Ah my Haynes Manual says for the battery...

Could this be causing a problem? None of the other fuses have gone... just this one... and with it go the indicators, all dashboard lights/dials... and trip computer. Put new one in 3 times today... 1 went within 2 minutes, 1 lasted for a few hours, however, I've noticed it when I tank it, and I mean tank it from 2nd gear... noticed it seems to go then, might be coincidence?

Either way, any ideas, could a battery do this to one particular fuse? And does this 10.5A delivery fo the new battery make a difference? Can't think of anything else, checked all the wiring it's fine... and like I say, 3 fuses, all lasting different times BUT I would say they've gone when tanking it.

wazza300 · 25 May 2012 at 00:34

could be,im no expert on electrics but that newer battery is providing more amps per hour than the old one

pugheaven · 25 May 2012 at 01:04

wazza300 said:
could be,im no expert on electrics but that newer battery is providing more amps per hour than the old one

It's what I was thinking but yeah, electronics aren't my forte... man, does my head in stuff like this...

Scythe · 25 May 2012 at 01:05

Sounds like you're regulator / rectifier has failed. This is what controls the electrical power from the alternator to power your bike and charge the battery.

If this fails, there are a few signs :

1 Your battery dies, as it is not being recharged.
2 Your bike is cutting out after a mile or so, even after a fully recharged battery
3 Bulbs etc can blow

Bulbs below because it is failing to regulate the voltage at a specified low voltage or current in order to charge the battery and power your bike's electrics. As your revs increase, it's putting more voltage or current through the bulbs, thereby blowing them, as they are much more sensitive.

Do you use your bike until you have it diagnosed. Using your bike will wreck your battery as it sounds like it is getting completely drained. Take your battery out and recharge it.

Have a look here for a good guide to diagnose a reg / rec, they usually do not take long to replace. http://www.bikersoracle.com/cbr600/forum/showthread.php?t=9544

The battery providing more amps per hour shouldn't cause any problems, it's not significantly higher, it just means it can provide more cranking power to your starter motor.

Dogbreath · 25 May 2012 at 08:45

pugheaven said:
Well, the only thing that's changed is I've got a new battery I put on this morning... Motobatt YTX9-BS... now, this is meant to be fine with my bike and a cracking quality battery replacing the cheap **** I had in it beforehand, BUT just wondering, this battery delivers 10.5Ah instead of the 8.0Ah my Haynes Manual says for the battery...

Could this be causing a problem? None of the other fuses have gone... just this one... and with it go the indicators, all dashboard lights/dials... and trip computer. Put new one in 3 times today... 1 went within 2 minutes, 1 lasted for a few hours, however, I've noticed it when I tank it, and I mean tank it from 2nd gear... noticed it seems to go then, might be coincidence?

The battery capacity simply tells you how much energy the battery holds, i.e. how long it will take to drain giving some arbitrary load. Generally the higher the better, and the change in battery capacity will not be the cause of the blown fuse.

pugheaven said:
Either way, any ideas, could a battery do this to one particular fuse? And does this 10.5A delivery fo the new battery make a difference? Can't think of anything else, checked all the wiring it's fine... and like I say, 3 fuses, all lasting different times BUT I would say they've gone when tanking it.

Its ore likely you have disturbed some wiring whilst replacing the battery, and either crushed a wire against the frame and it has shorted out, or possibly a wire which already had faulty insulation has been moved against the frame or engine. OTOH it might simply be pure coincidence and the wiring fault is nowhere near the battery.

wazza300 · 25 May 2012 at 09:30

yeah thinking about it thats right,it doesnt matter how high the amps per hour are its the regulator/rectifier that controls how much power is passed onto the electrical system

what bike is it?

pugheaven · 25 May 2012 at 10:37

Honda CBR600F 1999.... however douible checked this morning. Put a new fuse in, ran normally for 10 minutes not going above 8k rpm.... then one a straight opened Eric up and over 10k rpm and poof, fuse went. Replaced, ran fine again, did same thing...

So, in conclusion it's 100% when I tank the bike... very very odd. Now, the only things I did yesterday were

1). Replace battery, so will double check not snagged anything and maybe the force of the bike is jolting something.

2). Messed around with wiring to back light, as one of the break lights isn't working... bulb is fine, switched wirtes around to doubel check. Now, I wonder as it's got LED's on the rear, whether I've dislodged something here and it's shorting somewhere possibly when I tank it?

However, going to read about the regulator/rectifier thing now and see what's what once I've double checked all the wiring.

4T5 · 25 May 2012 at 10:54

pugheaven said:
it's got LED's on the rear.

Are you sure the bike was perfect before the battery swap ? Did you go over 10k when you first had it ?
Also the LED's worry me as I have read that you need to change something when fitting those or it blows stuff. Sorry I can't be more accurate it was just something I read whilst reading everything I could find about bikes.

Ghosteh · 25 May 2012 at 11:09

4T5 said:
Are you sure the bike was perfect before the battery swap ? Did you go over 10k when you first had it ?
Also the LED's worry me as I have read that you need to change something when fitting those or it blows stuff. Sorry I can't be more accurate it was just something I read whilst reading everything I could find about bikes.

The only thing I have seen when putting in LED indicators is you have to put an inline fuse in to protect the indicators themselves as the LED's require less power than normal bulbs. I've not heard of it damaging anything else, but that could have just been for my GSXR.

pugheaven · 25 May 2012 at 11:12

4T5 said:
Are you sure the bike was perfect before the battery swap ? Did you go over 10k when you first had it ?
Also the LED's worry me as I have read that you need to change something when fitting those or it blows stuff. Sorry I can't be more accurate it was just something I read whilst reading everything I could find about bikes.

Good question and can't be 100% sure although sure I have... certainly been over 10k this week before the fuses started going. Working from home today, so when I get a chance, gonna do a quick check of all the wiring to the LED's in the rear, make sure I've not dislodged something when putting my chain/lock under the seat yesterday and when I was checking the bulb.

4T5 · 25 May 2012 at 11:13

Well the 2 things I'd check would be the battery tray as above & the wiring on the LED's.
Another question is how much have you washed the bike & have you used a pressure washer ?

pugheaven · 25 May 2012 at 11:29

No not washed it, well, only light hand washed as it was spotless, never seen the rain lol... but didn't look like it had been washed when I received it. Will check everything out over dinner hour

Will report back!

4T5 · 25 May 2012 at 11:33

If it's not the battery or batt tray & there's nothing obvious on the LED wiring then start the bike with a fuse in & then push down on the back end to see if that makes the fuse pop.
I'm thinking if it is a dodgey wire around the back end when you boot it & the bike sits down at the back that's when it shorts.

Also Thank **** you haven't used a pressure washer on it.

pugheaven · 25 May 2012 at 13:43

Right, update, as one of the brake lights wasn't working on the rear, I took out, cleaned the connection out, WD40, wipe off and slotted the bulb back in... hey presto both rear brake lights work now. So, double checked all the connectors, put some leccy tape around any connectors for the resisters I presume for the rear LED's and wrapped up nicely in the rear under the seat. Put everything back on... lets see what happens. Couldn't see any lose wires though so... fingers crossed, Will be going out in 30 minutes

pugheaven · 25 May 2012 at 21:25

Perfect, opened Ric up multiple times over 10k rpm and ran sweet as a nut... so, looks like wires were touching under hard acceleration and shorting something. Cheers guys!

4T5 · 25 May 2012 at 21:44

Sweet, Enjoy the weekend. :cool:

pugheaven · 30 May 2012 at 14:47

Scythe said:
Sounds like you're regulator / rectifier has failed. This is what controls the electrical power from the alternator to power your bike and charge the battery.

If this fails, there are a few signs :

1 Your battery dies, as it is not being recharged.
2 Your bike is cutting out after a mile or so, even after a fully recharged battery
3 Bulbs etc can blow

Bulbs below because it is failing to regulate the voltage at a specified low voltage or current in order to charge the battery and power your bike's electrics. As your revs increase, it's putting more voltage or current through the bulbs, thereby blowing them, as they are much more sensitive.

Do you use your bike until you have it diagnosed. Using your bike will wreck your battery as it sounds like it is getting completely drained. Take your battery out and recharge it.

Have a look here for a good guide to diagnose a reg / rec, they usually do not take long to replace. http://www.bikersoracle.com/cbr600/forum/showthread.php?t=9544

The battery providing more amps per hour shouldn't cause any problems, it's not significantly higher, it just means it can provide more cranking power to your starter motor.

You was right, broke down with new battery Monday and it's the rectifier, got a new one plugged in by a great guy called Andy at ACL motorcycles in Oldham near Manchester... would recommend him big time. Eric is now running perfectly...