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- Thread starter Kol
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The perfect solution. Not cheap but works flawlessly in your situation.
A 2850mAh NiMH AA will only have 80% charge remaining 48 hours after charging, 60% after another five days and 40% after another seven. This is without the battery even being installed in a device.
Lets see, 40% after 14 days is 1140mAh of capacity, and that's ignoring any that would be used by the mouse itself.
on the other hand, the Eneloop would still hold ~99% of its charge after 14 days.
Other than the Apple charger only charging two cells at a time, and taking a languorous 5 hours to do it, it's a good solution. The Apple cells are eneloops (as I mentioned a few minutes ago) so will basically work forever and the Apple warranty coverage is usually pretty excellent. Surprisingly for Apple, the price is even pretty reasonable
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Soldato
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can you not attach a high capacity thin lipo to the underneath?
Soldato
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^ 30 days !? my cheap mouse/kb setup for this laptop is on good old duracell aaa's and its lasted much much longer than that.
if i were you op i'd do the following:
1. turn off the mouse at the switch every time you turn the pc off, its simple but makes an amazing difference, dunno how the power saving in the magic mouse, but mine flashes constantly at a low rate when not used, and by the sounds of it it could well be the case for you too, drains the battery something shocking.
2. get wired, guaranteed battery free, not minamilistic i know, but by the sounds of it neither is the amount of batteries your going through
I believe there is actually a purpose-made LiPo battery and charging dock available for the Magic mouse, but it's ~£40
Apparently the battery life is the source of much contention. I suspect that it's due to the digitizer and wireless connection drawing a fair whack of power due to being interacted with all the time by resting fingers.
Soldato
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I believe there is actually a purpose-made LiPo battery and charging dock available for the Magic mouse, but it's ~£40
Sod that, just get a cheap lipo from a Chinese drop shipper 3.7v should do, can't see being too expensive.
Soldato
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i can see why its contentious, if there's one thing mac does very well its battery life [well, maybe not phones, but the rest of their kit seems to compare well]
What batteries are you using at the moment? Are they cheap ones?
Get yourself a some high power Varta, Energizer or Duracell, alkaline or lithium batteries if you haven't tried them already. If that doesn't help, get a Logitech mouse, the batteries in mine last for years.
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Deleted member 66701
Deleted member 66701
I have a mix of eneloops, uniross hybrios and duraloops (eneloops rebranded as white top Duracell pre chardged). You won't go wrong with any of the above.
Best advice in the thread and absolutely ideal for Kol. It's also exactly what I do for my Apple Trackpad. It's a good solution which works very well.I recommend Eneloops, I have about 12 now which I use in my Camera, flash and various torches. They're pretty much invaluable, always ready to go when I need them and delivering every last bit of their capacity years after I bought the first batch.
You don't need a "fancy" charger, but I do recommend you get a "good" charger, which uses ΔV to detect when the battery is full.
These are the newest Eneloops, product code BK-3MCC. They can be recharged 2100 times before being down to 70% original capacity, and have a nominal minimum capacity of 1900mAh, but I've never seen a new cell come in at less than 2000mAh.
If you fully discharged and recharged them every day they'd "last" you 5 years and eight months.
In addition to that, they also hold their charge over time, so will still have 70% charge remaining after 5 years of storage.
As for a charger recommendation, this one purportedly has all the features you want on a "good" NiMH AA charger, and is reasonably priced to boot.
You'll probably get on well if you use yours the same way I use mine; Charge two sets up, put one set in the device and the other in the drawer. When the ones in the device are flat, put the still-charged ones from the drawer into the device, and charge up the flat ones. When they're charged, stick 'em in the drawer. Rinse and repeat.
If only there were a mouse and keyboard that could draw the power they needed from the host device via some sort of cable attachment 
Interestingly, my Logitech MX5500 keyboard batteries last for about 6 months and the mouse a month to a month and a half with it's built in battery. How is there such a difference between something like this and rechargeable AAs?
Interestingly, my Logitech MX5500 keyboard batteries last for about 6 months and the mouse a month to a month and a half with it's built in battery. How is there such a difference between something like this and rechargeable AAs?
Thanks Buddy
If only there were a mouse and keyboard that could draw the power they needed from the host device via some sort of cable attachment
Interestingly, my Logitech MX5500 keyboard batteries last for about 6 months and the mouse a month to a month and a half with it's built in battery. How is there such a difference between something like this and rechargeable AAs?
I suspect that the Apple Magic Mouse uses power faster than a normal wireless mouse because it uses Bluetooth to connect to the host device (more power intensive than "normal" wireless peripheral standards), and because of it's digitiser surface on the top, which in addition to drawing power all the time just to be "on", will cause the mouse to send information to the host device continuously when the mouse is being touched because there are fingers on the digitiser.
Associate
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Can also vouch for GP ReCyko low discharge AA rechargeables. I've been using the same set in my bike lights for years now and they're not showing any signs of losing capacity.
I've got them in all the remote controls and the electric cat flap which lasts about 6 months on one charge.
I've got them in all the remote controls and the electric cat flap which lasts about 6 months on one charge.