1930s Semi Refurb - Part 5 of ... (Edition: 'Dining' Room)

dlockers

dlockers

dlockers

Caporegime
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Hi folks, spent the day trying to make progress on the "dining room" (was the living room I think). After considering lots of other jobs I could be doing, I have decided this is the best place to start... I've cleared it out to the outbuilding, so just my desk and a few other bits in here now.

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The main objective was to be able to sort the pipework out for the new column rad I ordered. And then sort out wiring for new plugs. However rolling back soon became a pain, and self-evident I needed to just lift the lot...

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Sacrilege to consider cutting these boards as they are uncut 4m boards for the most part, however enough of the floor is patched to make me not feel too guilty.

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^ No wonder the telephone didn't work (I jest).

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^ Revealed the "original?" hearth.

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^ Liveable

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^ This is the hallway that has the pipework that feeds the dining room. The retrofit of heating must have been done in the early 1990s. A decision was made to run the pipework on the skirting, annoyingly. It comes down from the roof at this point so I lifted the relatively "new" carpet and discovered the original parquet hall floor. Not worth saving I don't think, but kind of nice.

The plan is to take the 22mm (not visible) into the floor and run it to the dining room rad, and spur off for a new hallway rad, and also plumb in the living room rad.

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^ Cross post from networking but this is the rough idea. I've also got some insulation coming from a dodgy bloke on the internet (£42/unit for 2.4m x 1.2m celotax/kingspan).

Watch this space...
 
Looking good.
Watching your threads with great interest.

We’ve recently bought and moved into a 1930s semi back in June.

We have similar plans to you.

Recently had the front windows replaced (bay windows and box window). Arranged to have the loft boarded and the boiler moved (and replaced with a new heating system) from the bathroom to the loft to give us more space in the bathroom so that we can also have a shower fitted.

Also purchased some herringbone LVT for the back room and some Lino for the kitchen. The kitchen will be a quick fix to make it liveable until we can afford a side extension for the kitchen and an new office room in around 5 years time.

After that it will will probably be a case of removing the gas fire in the front room and replacing it with a log burner.

This is while we’ve been stripping the walls and floors. Hoping to get some new carpet down in the kids room once the new heating system is done.

I’d like to do the electrics done as well but don’t think I can afford to get that done with everything else.
 
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@dLockers

Coming along nicely mate :) Lotsa work :D

See I think that floor is absolutely worth saving, get it sanded and then protected/stained

For ya surface mounted pipe shenanigans... https://www.manomano.co.uk/cat/skirting+board+pipe+covers ?
Or similar, the other option ...

The 2 walls beside the chair / high cup are they stud walls?
I mean I don't know the entire layout but have you looked at running the pipes that go up/down between floors inside the wall?
Smashing a plasterboard wall down and running a few pipes pipe thru the noggins would be **** easy

If you can cleanly get a few of the boards up in the dining room you might be able to crawl under the floor space under the hall, which would be awesome.
That would mean you could fastcut 2 holes for the tails of the rad and run the pipework under the floor, speedfit ftw.
 
That floor in the hallway is a lovely feature

You can get specialist companies to come in and restore it.

They must have loved it in the 1930’s a lot of houses have the same style
 
DVD drive…really? :D

On a serious note are you thinking knock through to the kitchen? When I had a house almost identical to yours the kitchen was tiny. I didn’t knock through but I moved the kitchen into the front room instead. It was magnificent!
 
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~Divine~Wind~ said:
@dLockers

Coming along nicely mate :) Lotsa work :D

See I think that floor is absolutely worth saving, get it sanded and then protected/stained

For ya surface mounted pipe shenanigans... https://www.manomano.co.uk/cat/skirting+board+pipe+covers ?
Or similar, the other option ...

The 2 walls beside the chair / high cup are they stud walls?
I mean I don't know the entire layout but have you looked at running the pipes that go up/down between floors inside the wall?
Smashing a plasterboard wall down and running a few pipes pipe thru the noggins would be **** easy

If you can cleanly get a few of the boards up in the dining room you might be able to crawl under the floor space under the hall, which would be awesome.
That would mean you could fastcut 2 holes for the tails of the rad and run the pipework under the floor, speedfit ftw.
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Cheers fella - yes, am starting to feel the work on my brain and body now!

The floor is nice but unfortunately it needs enough work to make it proper than the design intent (hard wood herringbone pattern, throughout living + dining and hall - potentially even the kitchen).

No stud walls - all solid. Like you said though, crawl space isn't enough for a human but plenty to feed the pipes through. The idea of taking up the carpets was to make it an easy job for the plumber who is coming for 5 days to rip out and relocate the boiler, water tank, and hide various pipes under the floor for me. I'm hoping I can chat him up and get him to do this job at the same time!

psd99 said:
That floor in the hallway is a lovely feature

You can get specialist companies to come in and restore it.

They must have loved it in the 1930’s a lot of houses have the same style
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Yeah you'd think so but pretty sure it was a later addition. It is just 10mm parquet AFAIK.

CapitalOne said:
DVD drive…really? :D

On a serious note are you thinking knock through to the kitchen? When I had a house almost identical to yours the kitchen was tiny. I didn’t knock through but I moved the kitchen into the front room instead. It was magnificent!
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Haha funny you mention that. I lost the blanking plate years ago so the drive just sits there unplugged in. The wife discovered 5 childhood DVD home movies of hers the other day though, so providing it works - I'll be chuffed!

Long-term the plan is to do a rear extension, or side return extension. With interest rates like they are though, that's 5+ years. I'm not actually a fan of open plan kitchen/diners as I like the living/dining space. The kitchen is then like a "working" kitchen.

~Divine~Wind~ said:
to match the vitage Parquet ;)
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:D

---

Lifted the carpet and cleaned off the floor today. Also took down the cabinet, ready for the vertical rad to go onto that wall by the window (RHS).

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Folks,

I have a lead on £42/sheet delivered for 2.4x1.2 100mm Manok board. Is that decent? It all looks pretty much the same tbh.
 
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danlightbulb said:
Where is your TV going in this layout (and what size is it)?
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Probably in the "Little Cup High Shelves" alcove. Tbh on reflection I'll probably just run an aerial to that alcove versus the others.

I'm not a big TV binger so it's just a 43" with space for maybe a 46.....50 at a total stretch. I don't really want the TV to be a "feature". I put it on a bracket a while back which works OK:

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Edit: hard to see but there is a SONOS mounted beneath the TV too. The Dell is a media server/cum VLC machine which needs to be hidden in the understairs cupboard with a massive HDMI.
 
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dLockers said:
Folks,

I have a lead on £42/sheet delivered for 2.4x1.2 100mm Manok board. Is that decent? It all looks pretty much the same tbh.
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Nearly all PIR board is identical from the big manufacturers with a TC of 0.022w/mk, the only one being slightly better is Kingspan Kooltherm but that carries a fairly hefty premium. So yes, Mannok is on a par with Celotex.
 
Orifice said:
Nearly all PIR board is identical from the big manufacturers with a TC of 0.022w/mk, the only one being slightly better is Kingspan Kooltherm but that carries a fairly hefty premium. So yes, Mannok is on a par with Celotex.
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Cheers Orifice.

Would you know if thickness being the "max possible" is wise or should I leave a gap beneath the floorboards?

My joists are 100mm but some 75mm insulation has just popped up.
 
dLockers said:
Cheers Orifice.

Would you know if thickness being the "max possible" is wise or should I leave a gap beneath the floorboards?

My joists are 100mm but some 75mm insulation has just popped up.
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Take it flush with the top of the floor joists and put some aluminium tape across the joists/joins to seal any air gaps.

You can fit some 25mm batten at the bottom of your 100mm joists to take the 75mm insulation boards.
 
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danlightbulb said:
Take it flush with the top of the floor joists and put some aluminium tape across the joists/joins to seal any air gaps.

You can fit some 25mm batten at the bottom of your 100mm joists to take the 75mm insulation boards.
Click to expand...
Is the performance of 100mm better than 75mm? (obviously yes, but meaningfully?)
 
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