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Better?
It's going to get a proper clean and wax tomorrow morning because I'm going to Maldon Motor Show on Sunday.
1964 Hillman Super Minx - Project/Resto
- Thread starter PardonTheWait
- Start date
Better?
It's going to get a proper clean and wax tomorrow morning because I'm going to Maldon Motor Show on Sunday.
Associate
Better?
It's going to get a proper clean and wax tomorrow morning because I'm going to Maldon Motor Show on Sunday.
Much
I don't know what it is about it but I like it
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Swapped the mirrors for Lucas style ones with convex glass - much better - and blanked the aerial hole.
Also fitted my Moon steering wheel. So expensive with the adaptors taken into account, but I love it!
They're $95 in the US, so expensive once you get it over here, or buy it from over here. £35 of adaptor and £30 of boss too
Also fitted my Moon steering wheel. So expensive with the adaptors taken into account, but I love it!
They're $95 in the US, so expensive once you get it over here, or buy it from over here. £35 of adaptor and £30 of boss too
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So. A bit of an update.
The car has been with a restorer for a while now, having just an ungodly amount of work done. Found some pretty nasty rust on one of the outriggers, went digging, found a bit more. Sent if off to have that seen to, and as often happens, one thing led to another.
End result is all the bottom (red) part of the car is now properly solid. All four wheel arches have been properly sorted as well as being rolled out, and significant work's been carried out all over, with inner and outer panels having been made and fitted.
While this was going on I got to thinking about what I want the car to be when it's finished, and it's not your owner's club, original classic. So I have had all the badges removed, the wing-mounted mirrors removed, chrome side trims and boot trims off, aerial hole covered, and (aftermarket) reverse lights removed. The car currently is in primer and paint is due this week.
Progress pictures which I'll keep to highlights, absolutely none of this is my work, all down to the restorer:
The car has been with a restorer for a while now, having just an ungodly amount of work done. Found some pretty nasty rust on one of the outriggers, went digging, found a bit more. Sent if off to have that seen to, and as often happens, one thing led to another.
End result is all the bottom (red) part of the car is now properly solid. All four wheel arches have been properly sorted as well as being rolled out, and significant work's been carried out all over, with inner and outer panels having been made and fitted.
While this was going on I got to thinking about what I want the car to be when it's finished, and it's not your owner's club, original classic. So I have had all the badges removed, the wing-mounted mirrors removed, chrome side trims and boot trims off, aerial hole covered, and (aftermarket) reverse lights removed. The car currently is in primer and paint is due this week.
Progress pictures which I'll keep to highlights, absolutely none of this is my work, all down to the restorer:
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Further welding and fabbing in very rough order:
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Removal of trim, rust, badges, and other prep:
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Primer:
Last pic is of the kiddy car but there she is in the background.
This has cost me what I consider to be a lot of money but when you look at the amount of work this guy is putting in, and when you look at the finished standard of other cars he has worked on, absolutely worth it. He's very good at what he does and I can't wait to have the car back - hopefully not that long to go.
When it comes back, order of business is:
Rear suspension bushings replaced, that is leaf spring bushes, and shackle bushes. The rear of the car currently squirms about quite badly, and with the amount of new metal and filler in the rear arches (all this work has had a skim of filler as it's all custom fabricated as opposed to repair panels) I want to minimise damage to this so it's the first thing on the list.
Lower the front a further inch or so with new spring pads from a Mustang II.
Fit some sort of rear view mirror on the outside of the car. Currently leaning towards a single peep mirror on the top of the door but may end up fitting a door mirror.
Fit a Dynamator (alternator in a Lucas dynamo shell) as the dynamo is properly knackered currently.
New exhaust system probably from Pipecraft - a single cherry bomb silencer probably.
Remove the high level brake light which stands out like a sore thumb currently, reupholster the rear parcel shelf with some new vinyl, and fit some new speakers in the rear parcel shelf at the same time.
Further down the line:
Pinstriping from Tootall or Nefarious. Boot, bonnet/eyebrows, quite likely a full length stripe where the chrome trims were to accentuate the length of the car and give it some flow. This is as and when funds allow, probably will have it done at a show.
New bushes throughout the front suspension.
New shocks all round.
New brakes.
Brighter lights.
New engine. Was thinking MX5 unit... Now looking into the dimensions of a Rover V8 as it should mate up to the BW35 gearbox currently installed and let me keep the column shifter which I think gives the car a large portion of its excellent character. Also the noise - can't beat a V8 rumble in my eyes (ears) and the engine is period correct and appropriate.
I've no idea if it will even fit at the moment and I'm well aware that more power for less money can be had from a Lexus or Chevy engine, however I don't really want a lot of power as it's only ever going to be a cruising and posing car.
Last pic is of the kiddy car but there she is in the background.
This has cost me what I consider to be a lot of money but when you look at the amount of work this guy is putting in, and when you look at the finished standard of other cars he has worked on, absolutely worth it. He's very good at what he does and I can't wait to have the car back - hopefully not that long to go.
When it comes back, order of business is:
Rear suspension bushings replaced, that is leaf spring bushes, and shackle bushes. The rear of the car currently squirms about quite badly, and with the amount of new metal and filler in the rear arches (all this work has had a skim of filler as it's all custom fabricated as opposed to repair panels) I want to minimise damage to this so it's the first thing on the list.
Lower the front a further inch or so with new spring pads from a Mustang II.
Fit some sort of rear view mirror on the outside of the car. Currently leaning towards a single peep mirror on the top of the door but may end up fitting a door mirror.
Fit a Dynamator (alternator in a Lucas dynamo shell) as the dynamo is properly knackered currently.
New exhaust system probably from Pipecraft - a single cherry bomb silencer probably.
Remove the high level brake light which stands out like a sore thumb currently, reupholster the rear parcel shelf with some new vinyl, and fit some new speakers in the rear parcel shelf at the same time.
Further down the line:
Pinstriping from Tootall or Nefarious. Boot, bonnet/eyebrows, quite likely a full length stripe where the chrome trims were to accentuate the length of the car and give it some flow. This is as and when funds allow, probably will have it done at a show.
New bushes throughout the front suspension.
New shocks all round.
New brakes.
Brighter lights.
New engine. Was thinking MX5 unit... Now looking into the dimensions of a Rover V8 as it should mate up to the BW35 gearbox currently installed and let me keep the column shifter which I think gives the car a large portion of its excellent character. Also the noise - can't beat a V8 rumble in my eyes (ears) and the engine is period correct and appropriate.
I've no idea if it will even fit at the moment and I'm well aware that more power for less money can be had from a Lexus or Chevy engine, however I don't really want a lot of power as it's only ever going to be a cruising and posing car.
Soldato
Amazing. It's going to look the business. Are you getting it protected underneath? I'd certainly invest £500 in a proper job, if not.
I'm not sure I'd want to go the Rover V8 route, these days, even more so if you're going to be just cruising around. Might require hacking it up a fair bit, and some compromises - which might spoil it.
How about an XE and a five-speed from a Manta? Be really reliable, easier to fit in something like this an an MX-5 engine (from what I understand; they don't go into Dolomites easily) and offer up plenty of punch?
I'm not sure I'd want to go the Rover V8 route, these days, even more so if you're going to be just cruising around. Might require hacking it up a fair bit, and some compromises - which might spoil it.
How about an XE and a five-speed from a Manta? Be really reliable, easier to fit in something like this an an MX-5 engine (from what I understand; they don't go into Dolomites easily) and offer up plenty of punch?
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Thanks
It's going to be undersealed on the whole underside he says.
The MX-5 engine from what I actually understand is supposed to be a pretty easy replacement for the Rootes engine, I believe it actually sits on the mounts correctly, and the early ones are apparenly easy enough to either decomputerise, or use the ECU with it without any immobiliser etc.
The engine swap at this point is really a pipe dream but I definitely intend to do it at some point.
It's going to be undersealed on the whole underside he says.
The MX-5 engine from what I actually understand is supposed to be a pretty easy replacement for the Rootes engine, I believe it actually sits on the mounts correctly, and the early ones are apparenly easy enough to either decomputerise, or use the ECU with it without any immobiliser etc.
The engine swap at this point is really a pipe dream but I definitely intend to do it at some point.
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Out of paint, fuel tank back in, and undersealed. A couple of weeks ago I went and fitted new bushes throughout the rear, doesn't squirm about any more. Still slightly wonky right to left! Will have to see if I can address that. Or fit a panhard rod.
so:
Once I got her home, I addressed the mirror situation (i.e none). I used the mirror part of one peep mirror and adapted it to the stalk of another one. Pretty fair vision now.
Also drilled out my little Tiki and turned it into a gear knob for the column shift:
so:
Once I got her home, I addressed the mirror situation (i.e none). I used the mirror part of one peep mirror and adapted it to the stalk of another one. Pretty fair vision now.
Also drilled out my little Tiki and turned it into a gear knob for the column shift:
I can't say I'm a fan of the trim removal, I think it looked better with it, seemed to flow better.
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It's going to get pinstriping on the bonnet and boot, possibly elsewhere, and I may go for a coach line down the sides in a similar place to the trim. I don't think I will go for the coach line, but it's a possibility.
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So. Bit of a saga coming up.
Before the car went to the restorer, I had a charging problem. Assumed faulty/tired dynamo. Ignition light flickering, then started to be on almost all the time, battery struggling all the time. Drove it to Kent and back for the Hayride, then up to Norfolk to the restorer, just made sure to charge the battery when I had to.
Got her home, charge light on, fitted a Dynamator - which is a modern alternator in a Lucas dynamo chassis to keep the original look. Charge light still on. I have very little clue about vehicle electrics, but I muddled through, however it's still flickering. But then I joined up two more wires, in a last ditch effort to fix my electrical issue. This made the oil light stay on all the time - even with ignition off and keys out. I undid that, but I had to go out so I went to have a shower. Then it hit me - why would a lubrication problem cause a light to stay on all the time?
****! I had my oil and ignition lights mixed up and I've been driving around for a couple of hundred miles chasing an electrical problem when I've actually got a lubrication issue! **** **** ***!
Checked my oil when I got home - levels still fine, just like last time I checked just before it went to restorer. However there's a bit of mayo in the oil filler. Not loads, but it's there. Possibly it could be condensation. Oil is moving round under the rocker cover.
Next step: flush the whole thing with supermarket oil, refill it with 20w50, see where I'm at. Also been pointed at a pressure relief spring to check.
After that if it's still the same.. head gasket >.<
However shouldn't be too horrendous on this car, the engine is fairly simple and there's quite a lot of room around it. I'll need help doing the valve clearances because I haven't done that on anything before but I'll see how I go.
On the upside, I made a tool board for my garage today:
No room for another toolbox so had to take another route to store some stuff.
Before the car went to the restorer, I had a charging problem. Assumed faulty/tired dynamo. Ignition light flickering, then started to be on almost all the time, battery struggling all the time. Drove it to Kent and back for the Hayride, then up to Norfolk to the restorer, just made sure to charge the battery when I had to.
Got her home, charge light on, fitted a Dynamator - which is a modern alternator in a Lucas dynamo chassis to keep the original look. Charge light still on. I have very little clue about vehicle electrics, but I muddled through, however it's still flickering. But then I joined up two more wires, in a last ditch effort to fix my electrical issue. This made the oil light stay on all the time - even with ignition off and keys out. I undid that, but I had to go out so I went to have a shower. Then it hit me - why would a lubrication problem cause a light to stay on all the time?
****! I had my oil and ignition lights mixed up and I've been driving around for a couple of hundred miles chasing an electrical problem when I've actually got a lubrication issue! **** **** ***!
Checked my oil when I got home - levels still fine, just like last time I checked just before it went to restorer. However there's a bit of mayo in the oil filler. Not loads, but it's there. Possibly it could be condensation. Oil is moving round under the rocker cover.
Next step: flush the whole thing with supermarket oil, refill it with 20w50, see where I'm at. Also been pointed at a pressure relief spring to check.
After that if it's still the same.. head gasket >.<
However shouldn't be too horrendous on this car, the engine is fairly simple and there's quite a lot of room around it. I'll need help doing the valve clearances because I haven't done that on anything before but I'll see how I go.
On the upside, I made a tool board for my garage today:
No room for another toolbox so had to take another route to store some stuff.
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A few updates. Doesn't seem to be any trouble with the head gasket - the mayo was minor enough that I'm sure it's just from the oil being mineral oil and air rushing over the rocker cover. The oil is clean when I drain a bit. I changed my oil pressure sender and all is good now so fingers crossed.
I'm useless at taking 'during' pictures, but I took out the original parcel shelf last week and re-covered it, also cut holes for speakers. However someone suggested replacing it with a thicker bit of MDF. Good for a few reasons - no need to drill the steel parcel shelf, will sound better, easier to cover because I can use staples.
So as I said, useless at during pictures but I do have before and after:
The holes already existing in the steel parcel shelf, including the original single speaker mount:
Decided to go with the outside set of holes.
Original parcel shelf looking pretty sorry for itself with the grilles in the position they'd go in, also I removed this hateful high-level brake light (to go with the removal of the awful third party reverse lights):
And the finished article:
Happy with that. Haven't wired it up yet because today's alternated between snowing and ****ing with rain, pretty grim out there.
I also used some flashing tape to sound deaden the parcel shelf. I've got sound deadening throughout the cabin but it's so expensive to buy especially in small amounts, I decided to get some of this instead. It's not as good but it's not bad hopefully. I'll use the rest of the roll to fill a few gaps elsewhere although it doesn't like to stick so I'll have to get hold a heat gun before I do the rest. Got away with it here, because it's sandwiched between the parcel shelf and the steel and it's screwed down so it won't go anywhere.
While we were out there we also put up some new shelving in the garage, replaced the work surface on my bench with 18mm instead of 6mm, and used some offcuts to put up more tool board inbetween the empty uprights of the shelving. This was all done from one sheet of MDF including the parcel shelf so that was nice.
Still plenty of room around the car. Well I say plenty.. I can walk down there! Wish I had room to work on the car inside but you can't have everything can ya.
Next jobs: Wire up the rear speakers when I get a bit of dry weather, and get new tyres on the front. I've realised why it looks front high, the front tyres are slightly taller than the rear (wheels are different widths). Going from 80 to 70 profile should sort that out. Then I have to decide if I use the new spring pads to lower it another 1.5in at the front. I do want to, slightly worried it will be too low.
Once that's done (or not) need to decide if I'm going to band the front wheels. They'll look better but I think they'll be too wide.
I'm useless at taking 'during' pictures, but I took out the original parcel shelf last week and re-covered it, also cut holes for speakers. However someone suggested replacing it with a thicker bit of MDF. Good for a few reasons - no need to drill the steel parcel shelf, will sound better, easier to cover because I can use staples.
So as I said, useless at during pictures but I do have before and after:
The holes already existing in the steel parcel shelf, including the original single speaker mount:
Decided to go with the outside set of holes.
Original parcel shelf looking pretty sorry for itself with the grilles in the position they'd go in, also I removed this hateful high-level brake light (to go with the removal of the awful third party reverse lights):
And the finished article:
Happy with that. Haven't wired it up yet because today's alternated between snowing and ****ing with rain, pretty grim out there.
I also used some flashing tape to sound deaden the parcel shelf. I've got sound deadening throughout the cabin but it's so expensive to buy especially in small amounts, I decided to get some of this instead. It's not as good but it's not bad hopefully. I'll use the rest of the roll to fill a few gaps elsewhere although it doesn't like to stick so I'll have to get hold a heat gun before I do the rest. Got away with it here, because it's sandwiched between the parcel shelf and the steel and it's screwed down so it won't go anywhere.
While we were out there we also put up some new shelving in the garage, replaced the work surface on my bench with 18mm instead of 6mm, and used some offcuts to put up more tool board inbetween the empty uprights of the shelving. This was all done from one sheet of MDF including the parcel shelf so that was nice.
Still plenty of room around the car. Well I say plenty.. I can walk down there! Wish I had room to work on the car inside but you can't have everything can ya.
Next jobs: Wire up the rear speakers when I get a bit of dry weather, and get new tyres on the front. I've realised why it looks front high, the front tyres are slightly taller than the rear (wheels are different widths). Going from 80 to 70 profile should sort that out. Then I have to decide if I use the new spring pads to lower it another 1.5in at the front. I do want to, slightly worried it will be too low.
Once that's done (or not) need to decide if I'm going to band the front wheels. They'll look better but I think they'll be too wide.
Last edited:
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So, a bit of an update.
Got new tyres on the front - went from 165/80/13 to 70 profile. They're now slightly smaller diameter than the rears, and the car sits much better now:
Slightly nose down now, how I wanted it.
Rear speakers are wired in, sounds much better. They sound much better and louder than the fronts, with the fronts being under the seats. I think I should consider making up boxes to go on the front parcel shelf, but I know it's going to be a pain because that whole bit on old cars is made out of crap flimsy board. Maybe one day. Sounds ok though, happy with it. More important things to deal with! Im fact I wired up the back speakers because I had the hump with the brakes!
So, the brakes. The brakes are shocking on this thing, just shocking. They also felt like one or both front calipers might be slightly stuck. Loads of brake dust, sometimes very hot after a drive, but they do stop the car. Eventutally. However I'm not happy with them and I also have intentions towards a new engine in the future, if I end up going for an MX5 lump it will be between 100-130bhp at first, and these things are not going to cut the mustard then, and to be realistic aren't good enough now. First step to bleed them.
Got her up on stands - first nipple stuck and rounded. Second nipple ok. Tried one of the fronts, stuck. I'm not going to bleed the system out of one nipple and I have no hope of getting them off with normal open ended spanners. It gets boring here for a bit so I'll skip to the end. I'm now the owner of a blowtorch, AF flare nut spanners, and these:
Which are magic as far as I'm concerned.
Anyway skip the end, they're off:
And as a bonus this explains part of it:
I can see my face in them! Super glazed, 0.5mm short of the rivets.
I've got new shoes here, presumably they fit! If they don't I'll still replace.
I'm speaking to a couple of companies and the plan is for replacement cylinders for the rear, replacement hoses, hopefully braided or reinforced with braiding, front and rear, and I'm going to have my calipers remanufactured for the front. Will get new pads while I'm about it - my pads are new but I'm going to see if I can get something better. The pads etc fit various cars including the very popular MGB, so there's a fair bit of choice. I think my discs are ok, they look fine to me anyway, so I'll leave them for now.
Hopefully putting all this on and bleeding it through won't muller my master cylinder, but I'm ready for it to. The way I've had it explained to me is that say your MC piston is 10cm long, it's spent however many years (as many as 54 in Mildred's case) travelling say 3cm, back and forth, over and over, and has worn itself nicely to that point. You drop your fluid, fill up, put the pedal to the floor, and immediately push past that 3cm and smoosh your o-rings etc all over everywhere when they hit the lip that's been worn into the cylinder. So I'll try to bleed it carefully but if/when I muller it, I'll replace that too.
Then my brakes should be running at their maximum capacity. I'm considering a brake booster, but they don't, from what I understand, actually provide any more braking power - just a lighter pedal feel. Maybe I will look into a larger master cylinder? I have no expertise in this at all though so I'll see how I go with this refresh of the braking system. Like I said, in its poor state it did stop the car, so when it's tip top I'm hoping it should be ok.
Got new tyres on the front - went from 165/80/13 to 70 profile. They're now slightly smaller diameter than the rears, and the car sits much better now:
Slightly nose down now, how I wanted it.
Rear speakers are wired in, sounds much better. They sound much better and louder than the fronts, with the fronts being under the seats. I think I should consider making up boxes to go on the front parcel shelf, but I know it's going to be a pain because that whole bit on old cars is made out of crap flimsy board. Maybe one day. Sounds ok though, happy with it. More important things to deal with! Im fact I wired up the back speakers because I had the hump with the brakes!
So, the brakes. The brakes are shocking on this thing, just shocking. They also felt like one or both front calipers might be slightly stuck. Loads of brake dust, sometimes very hot after a drive, but they do stop the car. Eventutally. However I'm not happy with them and I also have intentions towards a new engine in the future, if I end up going for an MX5 lump it will be between 100-130bhp at first, and these things are not going to cut the mustard then, and to be realistic aren't good enough now. First step to bleed them.
Got her up on stands - first nipple stuck and rounded. Second nipple ok. Tried one of the fronts, stuck. I'm not going to bleed the system out of one nipple and I have no hope of getting them off with normal open ended spanners. It gets boring here for a bit so I'll skip to the end. I'm now the owner of a blowtorch, AF flare nut spanners, and these:
Which are magic as far as I'm concerned.
Anyway skip the end, they're off:
And as a bonus this explains part of it:
I can see my face in them! Super glazed, 0.5mm short of the rivets.
I've got new shoes here, presumably they fit! If they don't I'll still replace.
I'm speaking to a couple of companies and the plan is for replacement cylinders for the rear, replacement hoses, hopefully braided or reinforced with braiding, front and rear, and I'm going to have my calipers remanufactured for the front. Will get new pads while I'm about it - my pads are new but I'm going to see if I can get something better. The pads etc fit various cars including the very popular MGB, so there's a fair bit of choice. I think my discs are ok, they look fine to me anyway, so I'll leave them for now.
Hopefully putting all this on and bleeding it through won't muller my master cylinder, but I'm ready for it to. The way I've had it explained to me is that say your MC piston is 10cm long, it's spent however many years (as many as 54 in Mildred's case) travelling say 3cm, back and forth, over and over, and has worn itself nicely to that point. You drop your fluid, fill up, put the pedal to the floor, and immediately push past that 3cm and smoosh your o-rings etc all over everywhere when they hit the lip that's been worn into the cylinder. So I'll try to bleed it carefully but if/when I muller it, I'll replace that too.
Then my brakes should be running at their maximum capacity. I'm considering a brake booster, but they don't, from what I understand, actually provide any more braking power - just a lighter pedal feel. Maybe I will look into a larger master cylinder? I have no expertise in this at all though so I'll see how I go with this refresh of the braking system. Like I said, in its poor state it did stop the car, so when it's tip top I'm hoping it should be ok.
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It's been a bit sporadic over winter, for your normal reasons.. cold, poor, can't be bothered!
Front calipers back from Bigg Red.
Rear shoes relined.
I did eventually get the calipers off, and got some new bolts for them, so they're all back on now and bled through.
Got new pads on as well - currently still got the old rear cylinders and master cylinder on.
Its been playing up also so I've cleaned and rebuilt the carb, new accelerator pump in there also. Fiancee's dad helped me tune it back up because I was having real trouble.
I've also secured the carpets properly as they were moving around everywhere and exposing the sound deadening.
Took all the ropey sealer off the leaky windscreen, and have put Captain Tolleys in there instead - it actually looks like it might have done the job, but I'm going to do the inside too.
Now on the lookout for a suitable rev counter to replace the non-functioning clock in the dash with.
Took her to the cinema a while back!
Was driving just horribly though. She went away for a bit after that, sorted some more brake bits out, getting somewhere with them now I think.
Failed the MOT the other week as I expected. One shock leaking badly, track rod ends knackered which isn't a bad result really.
I went to Gaz Shocks today and they're making me up some new adjustable dampers, slightly shorter than stock to account for the lowering. Four week lead time, but I should really use that time to do a few bits. I've ordered and received a full set of track rod ends also.
Long term I want the whole underside nice and clean - there's new underseal at the edges where the work was done, but I should get to the centre part too. Strip off old underseal, hit it with some Vactan, and put new underseal on. It might be a good time to do it now if I can get the access but it's just such a grim job I'm struggling for motivation!
On top of that I should re-bush the front end. I've got in touch with Powerflex to see if they have the sizes in their database, otherwise I may see if I can get it stripped down and measure up for bushes as I'm sure they're available.
What I'd really like to do is remove the whole front clip, clean it up, vactan it, and spray it over with some chassis black and do the bushes while I'm about it. Hoping the weather can motivate me to do it but she's currently on stands in a single garage so it's pretty tight!
Although I have a garage, I don't actually have a parking space so I can't leave her outside anywhere which is a bit of a pain but I think I should be able to get some bits done in the coming weeks, it's ideal really as she's laid up.
Got some real running issues as well at the moment - it's now idling lovely but stalls when put in gear. The BW gearboxes have a kickdown cable that apparently affects oil pressure in the box and really has a big effect on the whole operation of the box so I'm hoping that I've messed up the adjustment refitting it after the carb rebuild - I should be able to tell by running it with no kickdown cable. If it goes into gear happily, it's the culprit. Should be able to find time to investigate that over the bank holiday.
Front calipers back from Bigg Red.
Rear shoes relined.
I did eventually get the calipers off, and got some new bolts for them, so they're all back on now and bled through.
Got new pads on as well - currently still got the old rear cylinders and master cylinder on.
Its been playing up also so I've cleaned and rebuilt the carb, new accelerator pump in there also. Fiancee's dad helped me tune it back up because I was having real trouble.
I've also secured the carpets properly as they were moving around everywhere and exposing the sound deadening.
Took all the ropey sealer off the leaky windscreen, and have put Captain Tolleys in there instead - it actually looks like it might have done the job, but I'm going to do the inside too.
Now on the lookout for a suitable rev counter to replace the non-functioning clock in the dash with.
Took her to the cinema a while back!
Was driving just horribly though. She went away for a bit after that, sorted some more brake bits out, getting somewhere with them now I think.
Failed the MOT the other week as I expected. One shock leaking badly, track rod ends knackered which isn't a bad result really.
I went to Gaz Shocks today and they're making me up some new adjustable dampers, slightly shorter than stock to account for the lowering. Four week lead time, but I should really use that time to do a few bits. I've ordered and received a full set of track rod ends also.
Long term I want the whole underside nice and clean - there's new underseal at the edges where the work was done, but I should get to the centre part too. Strip off old underseal, hit it with some Vactan, and put new underseal on. It might be a good time to do it now if I can get the access but it's just such a grim job I'm struggling for motivation!
On top of that I should re-bush the front end. I've got in touch with Powerflex to see if they have the sizes in their database, otherwise I may see if I can get it stripped down and measure up for bushes as I'm sure they're available.
What I'd really like to do is remove the whole front clip, clean it up, vactan it, and spray it over with some chassis black and do the bushes while I'm about it. Hoping the weather can motivate me to do it but she's currently on stands in a single garage so it's pretty tight!
Although I have a garage, I don't actually have a parking space so I can't leave her outside anywhere which is a bit of a pain but I think I should be able to get some bits done in the coming weeks, it's ideal really as she's laid up.
Got some real running issues as well at the moment - it's now idling lovely but stalls when put in gear. The BW gearboxes have a kickdown cable that apparently affects oil pressure in the box and really has a big effect on the whole operation of the box so I'm hoping that I've messed up the adjustment refitting it after the carb rebuild - I should be able to tell by running it with no kickdown cable. If it goes into gear happily, it's the culprit. Should be able to find time to investigate that over the bank holiday.
Soldato
I had a Mk2 Ford Zodiac as my first car in 60's and had massive brake fade coming up to M5 at Rubery Birmingham - I ended up half way round the island before stopping - I had shoes all round so first thing I did was have a word with mates who all worked at Longbridge and before long a Brake vaccumm servo dropped in my lap - I put that on along with Ferrodo (or Mintex) VG95 shoes - That car would stop on a tanner. - When sold it I took off servo and kept it - later in my car ownership I had a Daff 44 so put it on there and brakes were great.
So servo with hard linings might just help with the stopping power.
So servo with hard linings might just help with the stopping power.
- Joined
- 26 Aug 2003
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- 24,281
It's either a servo on the current M/C, or a totally different M/C, I haven't really decided yet. I guess it depends how long I end up with the stock engine, but ideally I'd like to get it swapped sooner rather than later.
- Joined
- 26 Aug 2003
- Posts
- 24,281
Got a bit carried away today.
Front clip off, stripped half of it off today. Tomorrow going to strip the other half. Will measure up for new upper and lower wishbone bushes, make sure all four ball joints are ok (I think the two on the side I took off are alright, can't feel any play. Need to get or make up some new metal clips to hold the dust covers on).
Going to go at it with a wire brush, vactan and paint it. Also going to make up new front brake pipes while I'm about it.
I'm the worst at taking pictures so I haven't really got any progress shots but will try and get some tomorrow.