1st time Watercooling - A list before ordering

Bleh yeh thats the link i did copy, ahwell maybe it did'nt copy properly, sorry about that, and thanks to mrdbristol for pointing out what i was intending to link too.

Thats what i get when im posting different ocuk links in 2 diff forums at the same time lmao, ahwell, thanks again mrdbristol.
 
bifday2k said:
Bleh yeh thats the link i did copy, ahwell maybe it did'nt copy properly, sorry about that, and thanks to mrdbristol for pointing out what i was intending to link too.

Thats what i get when im posting different ocuk links in 2 diff forums at the same time lmao, ahwell, thanks again mrdbristol.
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It's allright, thanks for your input, I didn't know you needed those adaptors.

Cheers
 
Yeh i thought the same, untill i double checked on the forum, as i have just bought myself a thermochill pa120.2, and can 100% confrim you will need those adapters, if using standard G1/4 threaded barbs.
 
bifday2k said:
Yeh i thought the same, untill i double checked on the forum, as i have just bought myself a thermochill pa120.2, and can 100% confrim you will need those adapters, if using standard G1/4 threaded barbs.
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How do you rate the Thermochill?

Been looking at Black Ice GT Xtreme 360 Radiator as well?
 
Can't fully rate it, as its still awaiting installation, kinda lazy to take my system apart at the moment, even though everything is all set.

Purely from looks and feel of it, i would say they are extremly well built.

If it was me id go the thremochill, and adapters over the black ice, purely on cost basis, as the performance will be roughly the same.

I used to use the blackice Stealth rads, due to there thinness, there quaility is still up there with thermochill, just when going for the thicker rads, the thermochill to me wins out purely on cost.

Im sure the more experienced water guys here will be able to give a much better veiw on them though.
 
Personally the rad you picked is over kill for just the CPU if you. A normal PA120.2 will be plenty for your CPU and if your going to dual loop for when you had a CPU block a PA120.3 for your 5970's.

I ran my CPU + a GTX280 on a crappy Blackice 120.2 and it work nicely with some coolermaster 120mm led fans but it was on the bleeding edge limit (I nicked a hole in my PA120.3 which I still have). Heck with just my CPU in the loop now i don't even need the fans to be on 90% of the time. Went some 4 hours yesterday playing bioshock 2 (which has about 90% cpu usage on my rig) till I rememberd to swish the fans on.

Some other tips

Take your time, with it being your virgin run I would plan to spend a good afternoon if not most of a day to get every thing right.

Normal distilled water from Tesco and what not with some adtive dose a great job and far cheaper than most coolants (I would only personally use them if was hitting near zero temps)

Worm Drive Hose Clip are far easyer to source if your ina rush and need some extras probaly abit better fit and easyer to get off (for me anyway) but don't look to neat)

Of course do a over night leak test to be safe. Some say make you 24 hours minium but I tend to find if a leak is going to appear its going to be straight away to up to 2hours for it running.

I'll repeat myself , take you time, trust me.
 
Very interested to see how this turns out as I'm buying the 800D for a new W/C build also and how you mount the XSPC 750 rad- whats modification is required etc. :)
 
KillBoY_UK said:
Personally the rad you picked is over kill for just the CPU if you. A normal PA120.2 will be plenty for your CPU and if your going to dual loop for when you had a CPU block a PA120.3 for your 5970's.

I ran my CPU + a GTX280 on a crappy Blackice 120.2 and it work nicely with some coolermaster 120mm led fans but it was on the bleeding edge limit (I nicked a hole in my PA120.3 which I still have). Heck with just my CPU in the loop now i don't even need the fans to be on 90% of the time. Went some 4 hours yesterday playing bioshock 2 (which has about 90% cpu usage on my rig) till I rememberd to swish the fans on.

Some other tips

Take your time, with it being your virgin run I would plan to spend a good afternoon if not most of a day to get every thing right.

Normal distilled water from Tesco and what not with some adtive dose a great job and far cheaper than most coolants (I would only personally use them if was hitting near zero temps)

Worm Drive Hose Clip are far easyer to source if your ina rush and need some extras probaly abit better fit and easyer to get off (for me anyway) but don't look to neat)

Of course do a over night leak test to be safe. Some say make you 24 hours minium but I tend to find if a leak is going to appear its going to be straight away to up to 2hours for it running.

I'll repeat myself , take you time, trust me.
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Thanks for the advice :), will prob still go with a 360 rad incase I decide to cool my chipset (still not sure as the motherboard is still under warranty)
 
Thanks for everybodys advice is is much appreciated.

I have now ordered all my parts for cooling the CPU to start with :).

A bit apprehensive about the build with it being my first, but looking forward to the end result.
I must remember to take my time and allow enough time not to rush it.

Heres my order...

1 x XSPC Dual 750 Bay Reservoir Pump Rev2 Multi Fascia
1 x ThermoChill PA120.3 Radiator (15mm)
1 x Swiftech Apogee XT Extreme Performance CPU waterblock Rev 2
6 x Koolance Hose Clamp [For OD: 16mm (5/8")
1m x PrimoChill Anti-Kink Coils - 5/8" OD Tubing - Clear
3m x Masterkleer 7/16" ID 5/8" OD PVC Tubing
2 x G1/4" Inline Temp Sensor High Flow
1 x 1L Feser One Fluid - UV Blue
2 x Bitspower Silver shining G 3/8 to G 1/4 adapter
4 x Bitspower Barbs G1/4" Silver Shining 1/2" Fitting
2 x Bitspower Barbs 4" G1/4" Silver Shining Dual Rotary 45-Degree 1/2" Fitting
3 x Scythe Kaze Jyuni 1900RPM Slip Stream 120mm Fan

Hopefully all will go to plan and will start a build log with some photo's.
 
Much better to use distilled water with a silver kill coil & coloured tubing,than any sort of coloured fluid.
 
Bubo said:
Whoops-a-daisy. Where did that come from in your proposed list uptill now?

I would lose this tbh, especially blue.
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Whats up with this?

I wish people would qualify their remarks when posting. If I've made a crucial mistake rather than an asthetic one I can change it.

Have read some people prefer a branded liquid while others prefer distilled / de-ionised water.

I got blue to help with the leak test, planning on putting a white sheet in under all the joint and I thought blue would show up well.

Am planning to change to a clear once a leak test is complete.
 
Both types stain. (blue and red seem to be the worst)
Both types can separate. (but not that common)

You can tell if your paper towels/kitchen roll is wet with water - 50ml of antifreeze/audi G11/G12 will give a colour tint if you must for free (and you know some one with a car)
 
O.K, changed the coolant to - Thermochill EC6 Non Conductive Coolant - Clear / UV Blue.
Thought a good compromise of having clear liquid that won't stain whilst still retainig some of the blue colour under U.V

Got the watercooling components & tube in yesterday and filled up last night and has been running overnight for a leak test.
All looked dry this morning so looking forward to getting home tonight and completeing the rest of the tidying and getting it booted up.
 
Hi, The koolance clampswork very well, proberbly a little overkill when used with 7/16" tubing over 1/2" barbs, but better safe than sorry.

They really add to the minimalist theme, safe without being too bulky. Far better looking than wormclips.

They were a little tight to fit, and needed a little gentle persuasion.

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