2002 Ford Focus Engine Management Light

MuvverRussia said:
Coil pack + plugs + leads will be around £100 in parts tops. Easy enough job to DIY too really.

I'd change the lot, then it's job done. 90% sure it's likely to be this.
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£100, that would be the price a garage would charge ? I've priced them all from around £45 - £60. I wouldn't be going to a garage, i would fit them myself.

OhEsEcks said:
Is it petrol or diesel?
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Petrol
 
Been a while since I've had to do a Ford coil pack so the £100 was off the top of my head.

Get the parts and do it if you're DIYing it - should take an hour tops. It's probably the coil pack that's shot, but given you'll have to get the part in and tools out, you may as well do the lot.

You'll need a torx screwdriver (can't remember what size) to take the old coil pack off. Also label things so you put the HT leads back on in the right order.
 
If it's only one cylinder then it's highly likely it's the just the #4 plug or HT lead that's the issue rather than the coil pack.

Unless your car is a SCI with per-cylinder coil packs, the coil pack will be a wasted spark type. It "fires" two cylinders at once 1&3 and 2&4. You would have issues with cylinder 2 also if either the coil was at fault or the ecu wiring to the coil.

A "ghetto way" to test the coil is to have an assistant hold the car rpm to around 3k and pull the #4 HT lead away from the coil and note how far the spark will jump, it should jump at least 25mm in open air with a good coil up to about 50mm for a really good one. Stick the HT lead back on asap.

Don't do this for prolonged periods mind or you'll risk killing the cat with unburnt fuel, and wear some rubber gloves to insulate yourself.
 
A new development, tonight when i tried to start the car it was totally dead - not even a click or clicking that you get with a dead battery. Not even a single click on each attempt when turning the key. After about 3 or 4 tries it fired up as normal. The engine light is still on and as before only issue is the slightly lumpy idle. Going to be next week before i can get around to changing anything.
 
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Just been doing a little research and the starting problem sounds like the Clutch safety switch at on the clutch pedal........any ideas on this and any way of testing this theory without the fault being present ?
 
Were the dashboard lights on when you tried to start the car?

You'd need a multimeter to do a continuity test on the clutch switch if:

1. A visual inspection to see if it's seated correctly in the metal support bracket come up as o.k..

2. A physical test involving pushing the plunger in/out doesn't give any obvious signs of a fault like sticking or a harsh feel in its operation.

The clutch switch will be open circuit when the pedal is not depressed, the plunger comes out as the pedal is depressed which closes the switch.
 
MatteH Oxford said:
Were the dashboard lights on when you tried to start the car?

You'd need a multimeter to do a continuity test on the clutch switch if:

1. A visual inspection to see if it's seated correctly in the metal support bracket come up as o.k..

2. A physical test involving pushing the plunger in/out doesn't give any obvious signs of a fault like sticking or a harsh feel in its operation.

The clutch switch will be open circuit when the pedal is not depressed, the plunger comes out as the pedal is depressed which closes the switch.
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All the Dash lights were on, i.e everything looked ok until i turned the ignition on and nothing happened.
 
could be several reasons.

I don't think it would have been p.a.t.s. or the fuel inertia switch as I'm pretty sure the car will turn over but not fire.

More likely a dodgy ignition switch, clutch switch or possibly a dodgy battery/the connections/engine earth strap might be on it's way out.
 
Could be something, could be nothing. If it's running fine then just keep driving I would.

I had a fiat stilo estate I drove into the ground, put 30k on it with the engine light on.
 
Coil pack changed, HT Leads changed and no change, if i change the plugs and the problem still isn't fixed what else could be the problem :confused:
 
The car has a lumpy idle and causing the engine light to come on. As already said the garage tested it and the code was cylinder 4 misfire but no misfire found by the garage......that said the idle is still lumpy after a coil pack and HT lead change. The cost of the car is irrelevant really, i would rather have it fixed for than have to buy another because the fault turned out to be serious enough to do some damage. I agree i would rather not spend another £40 to get another diagnostic done.
 
teulk said:
The car has a lumpy idle and causing the engine light to come on. As already said the garage tested it and the code was cylinder 4 misfire but no misfire found by the garage......that said the idle is still lumpy after a coil pack and HT lead change. The cost of the car is irrelevant really, i would rather have it fixed for than have to buy another because the fault turned out to be serious enough to do some damage. I agree i would rather not spend another £40 to get another diagnostic done.
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You could swap the plugs around and if the misfire is still on no4 then it can't be the plugs.
 
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