2014 ER6F - Chain tension/alignment issue

[Maria P]

Hi guys,

First attempt today to adjust chain tension, and it wasn't successful.
I'd previously watched youtube videos and read the manual etc., and to be frank, was fairly confused with the different approaches. However, I'd be grateful for your opinions on the following:

1 - Manual advises to check slack and complete the procedure on the side stand, including identifying the tight spot by 'rotating the rear wheel'. This seems impractical. Surely to identify the tight spot by rotating the wheel it's better done on a stand with the rear wheel raised?

2 - My main issue was when I was satisfied with the slack (I assumed 30mm was ideal being midway between the recommended 25-35mm), I checked alignment markings, tightened the locknuts and axle, then torqued it, but when I then checked the slack it was tight at 20mm-25mm???

After several frustrating attempts I've now retired for the evening...

3 - I bought the Monkey laser alignment tool and found it useless as it is unsteady on the sprocket and can't possibly stay in place and give an accurate reading. Almost certainly taking it back tomorrow, unless anyone can advise there's something I'm doing wrong?

Any advice would be much appreciated!!

 

[BUDFORCE]

Hi guys,

First attempt today to adjust chain tension, and it wasn't successful.
I'd previously watched youtube videos and read the manual etc., and to be frank, was fairly confused with the different approaches. However, I'd be grateful for your opinions on the following:

1 - Manual advises to check slack and complete the procedure on the side stand, including identifying the tight spot by 'rotating the rear wheel'. This seems impractical. Surely to identify the tight spot by rotating the wheel it's better done on a stand with the rear wheel raised?

Nope. Incorrect. Manual says sidestand do it on the side stand, that is because the weight on teh rear wheel will affect the chain tension. If you know your bike very well, you can adjust for that and do it on the centre/paddock stand, but you really need to know how much it affects the tension (eg measure every point of the chain on teh stand, measure ever point off, work out the different, adjust accordingly) but basically, do it on the stand like the instructions say

2 - My main issue was when I was satisfied with the slack (I assumed 30mm was ideal being midway between the recommended 25-35mm), I checked alignment markings, tightened the locknuts and axle, then torqued it, but when I then checked the slack it was tight at 20mm-25mm???

Yea probably because when you tighten the nuts it pull everything a little more taught, to be honest I dont understand fully the science behind this but its normal and happens to me also (various bikes). Just slack it of a little (quater turn) or however it works on an ER6 (not familiar with that bike).

After several frustrating attempts I've now retired for the evening...

Good idea, get beers

3 - I bought the Monkey laser alignment tool and found it useless as it is unsteady on the sprocket and can't possibly stay in place and give an accurate reading. Almost certainly taking it back tomorrow, unless anyone can advise there's something I'm doing wrong?

I dont use any tool just eye ball it - seriously though, provided you turn both sides exactly the same amount (count each side) your chain should stay perfectly aligned. If you mess it up, wind them both in as far as they will go, then start winding out again, same amount each side. Jokes aside though, do eyeball it, the chain is relatively long so you should be able to spot if its out, even marginally, just by looking at it all.

Any advice would be much appreciated!!

 

[Maria P]

Many thanks for your detailed reply BUDFORCE!!

May I just check something again regarding the first query - side stand and rotating the wheel for the tight spot?

Apologies if this is a daft question as I'm quite new to this.

If it's on the side stand, rotating the wheel causes the bike to travel. So one needs a lengthy path to do this and repeatedly pushing the bike, resetting the side stand, checking the slack etc.. So for the tight spot identifying task itself, am I right that it's more efficient to do this on a paddock stand, then complete the actual chain slack adjustment on the side stand?

Thanks again!
MP

 

[BUDFORCE]

AHH, yes I don't see why not.

At least you know to do it at the tight spot, you be surprised people think you need to tighten the loose spots, which you can kinda understand why people would think that.