3900x cooling weirdness

cruisinbeatz

cruisinbeatz

cruisinbeatz

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Joined
7 Nov 2006
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434
Hey folks, wondering if anyone has had similar issues as myself. Got myself a x770 hero viii and 3900x from OCUK end of late week. put all together and realized my AIO cooler bracket was missing for AM4 (previously had 1151 socket, so while I waited for that to come I ran the stock cooler and was getting decent thermals, not brill but not bad. Under full load it would have peaked around 87 degrees or there abouts. Anyhow, my am4 bracket came today, cleaned all up, put the aio cooler back in, mounted as per usual and applied thermal compound and all booted however I notice under load it peaks 95 degrees then thermal throttles, so took all off to make sure paste was sufficient and it was covering the full cpu evenly with no shallow or raised spots, cleaned up again and used different paste this time, tested again and 95 degrees then thermal throttle again, anyone tell me whats going on? I checked and the pump and fans are ramping up when under load too in the AIO cooler.

AIO cooler: H100i v2
Initial Thermal paste: Artic MX-4 (I know its not the best but its all I had here)
2nd Thermal paste, haven't a clue, label is off it)
 
Did you check clock speeds/performance? CPU might be boosting higher.
On the other hand higher temps should lower boost clocks...

How old is that AIO?
If it's older than couple years it could well have degraded.
Unlike heatpipes which keep working unless physically broken, waterpipe coolers have many degradation/wear processes.
For example when corrosion inhibitors wear out surfaces can start oxidizing decreasing heat transfer directly and possibly by gathering into narrow space inside CPU block.
Also risk of other possible reactions increases, especially if its alu radiator. (worst case is galvanic corrosion eating literal hole into radiator)
And without biocides also some organic gunk could form inside loop, once again decreasing heat transfer in block.
 
Thanks for replying, Yea clock speeds started off higher but then dipped to over base when it over heated. The AIO is about 3 years old, I had it running on my 8700k which was overclocked to 4.9ghz for about 2 years and was always nice and cool, peaking out about 78 under real heavy load. Only got my 3900x last week. I've been looking up and perhaps its to do with the way I've applied the thermal paste. Ill remove it again and see if it make much difference but I cant see it when i looked last time the full chip was covered. I've also ordered new thermal paste in case this stuff I had from before was perhaps "off", hasn't been used in about 2 years and perhaps has dried a little or something.
 
There was a difference yes but couldn't figure it out, anyhow over last 2 days of racking my tiny brain I gave in and got the Dark Rock 4 Pro and put it on... WOW what a cooler, monster in size and monster for cooling, CPU doesn't go over 70 degrees under full load with R20 and a few other stress tests. Either something was wrong on the way I was applying it or there is a fault somewhere I couldn't find on the AIO I'm not 100% sure. Will put the AIO on another older machine here to see if it makes any difference. Thanks for your help @EsaT , I'm getting to old for this craic now lol
 
I'm sure I read somewhere that people were reporting better cooling when rotating the AIO cooler plate by 90deg due to the location of the components under the IHS.
 
cruisinbeatz said:
I'm getting to old for this craic now lol
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Despite of all marketing pee spewed around high end heatpipe coolers basically win typical waterpipe coolers in continuous cooling per noise.
Already sub £45 Scythe Mugen 5 is more than match for most. (including Corsair H115i)
And only the best AIOs can win the best dual tower coolers.

So you won't be really losing anything in heatpipe coolers.
Except in amount of worries about cooler's endurance and what can go wrong in it.

Assuming pump was still running at normal speed maybe there was some oxidizing gunk or organic stuff in loop, which got dislodged when you were moving parts around during PC rebuild.
That could have then partially blocked CPU block or something.
 
[QUOTE="Assuming pump was still running at normal speed maybe there was some oxidizing gunk or organic stuff in loop, which got dislodged when you were moving parts around during PC rebuild.
That could have then partially blocked CPU block or something.[/QUOTE]

This could be quite true. I think the pump was still working, In the corsair link app it was able to detect the speed of the pump and when i adjusted from balanced to performance I did see the rpm get much higher, I also tried to listen to it but I'm half deaf so heaven knows what I heard, I just needed the pc working again as I'm trying to get a few video projects wrapped up before xmas and didn't want the new cpu to cook its self.
 
If pump impeller is bad or has come loose from motor shaft pump rpm will change with no change in coolant flow.

Your H100i v2 is not over 5 years old and you have receipt you can get it replaced on warranty, then sell/give it to someone you don't like. ;)
 
cruisinbeatz said:
Yes I must look the receipt out, Think I actually got it from OCUK too.



Someone I don't like, love it lol.
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I hate CLCs. AIOs are not a lot better but at least they have threaded fittings and fill port so can be repaird / serviced as needed. But for the marginal if any better cooling AIOs/CLCs give compared to higher price and way shorter life a good air cooled setup is logical choice .. although not everyone is logical .. even I'm not sometimes. ;)
 
doyll said:
I hate CLCs. AIOs are not a lot better but at least they have threaded fittings and fill port so can be repaird / serviced as needed. But for the marginal if any better cooling AIOs/CLCs give compared to higher price and way shorter life a good air cooled setup is logical choice .. although not everyone is logical .. even I'm not sometimes. ;)
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I'll be honest I would be to afraid for proper water cooling, I don't have what you would class as luck with tech so i would end up spilling water somewhere no doubt. I always loved them, but closest I'll get to it is watching online videos lol.
 
I was going to suggest that the H100i was probably coming to the end of its life. My H100i lasted 2 years (not new) before it started to become useless and was eventually replaced with an Alpenfohn K2 Mount Doom. This worked perfectly and was then replaced by the TT RIING 280mm AIO, which so far has been faultless.
 
cruisinbeatz said:
I'll be honest I would be to afraid for proper water cooling, I don't have what you would class as luck with tech so i would end up spilling water somewhere no doubt. I always loved them, but closest I'll get to it is watching online videos lol.
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Dark Rock Pro 4 is within 1-3c of very best air which is better than CLCs at same noise levels and way more dependable. Besides, be quiet! make some of the prettiest coolers out and hold their looks for years. Sure, Notua has black cooler now, but their finish is very easily scratched off.

Water cooling is an expensive hobby. Not knocking it as I water cooled for many years starting before commercial components were available and we had to make our own using car radiators, big aquarium / small pond pumps .. even machining our own waterblocks in the beginning. But when Thermalright started using heatppes and came out with IFX-14 (basically same cooler as Silver Arrow) I moved over to heatpipe cooling and have never looked back. I still do a little cooler and fan testing and sometimes test CLCs and AIOs, most of which I can't finish testing and get them out of system fast enough. I do have a be quiet! Sillent Loop 280 with a 360 rad added from a dead Silent Loop. Which reminds me I need to report back to x-360 owner about it's failure. Waterblock microfins were plugges up so tight I couldn't clean them and pump was barely moving any coolant.
 
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