£40 PSU

Soldato
Joined
13 Mar 2007
Posts
13,500
Location
South Yorkshire
Man of Honour
Joined
12 Jul 2005
Posts
20,514
Location
Aberlour, NE Scotland
Don't buy a Kolink. Take a look at the stickers on the store page and you will see that the 12v rail is much less than the total output, sometimes pathetically lower. A lot of them also have a recommendation on the sticker not to exceed a certain total wattage (usually 100w less than total power) in 24/7 use. The warranty period for the KL/KLM series is only 2 years and there is no mention at all of the warranty length on the Core series.

Core series 300w = 240w 12v rail (recommended total continous power 250w)
Core series 400w = 276w 12v rail (recommended total continous power 300w)
Core series 500w = 396w 12v rail (recommended total continous power 400w)
Core series 600w = 480w 12v rail (recommended total continous power 500w)
Core series 700w = 576w 12v rail (recommended total continous power 600w)
Core series 850w = 672w 12v rail (recommended total continous power 700w)
KL400w = 288w 12v rail
KL500w = 408w 12v rail
KL600w = 480w 12v rail
KL700w = 585w 12v rail (recommended total continous power 650w)
KL500M = can't quite make out in the image if it's 360w or 380w (recommended total continous power 400w)
KL600M = 450w 12v rail (recommended total continous power 500w)
KL700M = 585w 12v rail (recommended total continous power 650w)
KL850M = 748w 12v rail (recommended total continous power 750w)

There are no proper independant reviews anywhere on any of their psu's apart from the top end platinum pair of units which seem to do ok. We know nothing about these cheaper units. No clues as to who the oems are and taking into account the pricing, weak rails, recommendations of less than the total power, I dread to think what crap is inside these things. I wouldn't use one on any pc even if it was free.

Stick with known brands that have been well reviewed. The XFX XT series are ok budget psu's and are designed by Seasonic although built by a third party oem.
 
Soldato
Joined
7 Dec 2012
Posts
17,504
Location
Gloucestershire
500w will be more than fine, you can ignore the 550w standard recommendation - that's just to cover the ultra budget trash PSUs that you can (shouldn't) buy.

I've run a 560Ti (around 50w lighter than a 570) on a cheap (BeQuiet 80+ Bronze) 400w PSU for 3+ years. No problems.
 
Soldato
Joined
9 Jan 2016
Posts
3,727
Location
Derbyshire
my psu(sig) would run a 570 from all the research i did before, dont own one and probably wont buy one now, but your i5 isnt that more powerful than my i3 however on this site my psu is over £20 more than your budget so you should be safe with the 500w xft.

in fact i just looked and my cpu is 54w and yours is 65w, thats like a few hard drives of power lol and the 570 has a power draw of 219w, so you might get away with this if you wanted a higher rating and better quality at the sacrifice of more money, 444w on the 12v rail, so unless you plan to overclock the 570(cpu is locked) or cram your system with drives then this would do.

My basket at Overclockers UK:

Total: £66.49
(includes shipping: £10.50)



 
Associate
Joined
5 Jan 2017
Posts
134
I'm using a Corsair VS550 in an Intel i5 Skylake, Nvidia 1060 setup and have no problems with it at all whilst gaming at 1080, going by reviews of this psu it should have exploded by now with all the strain i'm putting it under.

A lot of Foo regarding PSU's in my opinion, pc parts are becoming tainted with the mysticism i normally associate with hi-fi enthusiasts:D
 
Associate
Joined
7 Feb 2017
Posts
77
For £40 you cannot go wrong with the Corsair CP-9020097-UK VS Series ATX/EPS 80 PLUS Power Supply Unit, 550 W

People are however buying power supplies that are too highly rated for their needs. It's like manufacturers deliberately put in over the top estimates on what each component needs.

This video shows exactly what i mean:

 
Soldato
Joined
27 Jan 2012
Posts
7,968
Location
The king of the north!
The corsair VS series that you just recommended have a plethora of issues and horrific capacitors that are known for causing a lot of power ripple. It's one of the main psus series recommended that people avoid due to it's vast documentation of issues.

So sadly, you can go very wrong with them.
 
Caporegime
Joined
29 Jul 2011
Posts
36,372
Location
In acme's chair.
As mentioned, a 500W unit would be fine. What price does the 450W Superflower come in at?

I run 2x R9 390's overclocked and an I7 overclocked at 100% load 24/7 on a 750W PSU. Have been for months. I think the recommendation would probably be 1000W+ from the places which issue them.

As long as you get a quality unit you'll be fine.
 
Soldato
Joined
8 Sep 2003
Posts
22,904
Location
150 yds from OcUK
Well I'm running 2 x GTX 1080 ti @ 2050mhz each,
A X99 5930K @ 4.5ghz
10 x 120mm fans
Full custom watercooling with D5 pump
4 SSD drives
LED light strips x 2
Dedicated soundcard

And this is all running on an Antec EDGE 750w PSU. When gaming the fan doesn't even ramp up and that happens when the PSU reaches 60% load, so I'm not even hitting 60% of 750w unit. When I run benchmarks then I break that limit and the fan does indeed ramp up.

It's in my interest to sell as many high end PSU's, wattage wise. However if you buy a top quality unit you really do not need the crazy wattages that are often quoted.
 
Associate
OP
Joined
3 Aug 2014
Posts
2,470
Location
Slamannan Falkirk
Associate
Joined
5 Jan 2017
Posts
134
The corsair VS series that you just recommended have a plethora of issues and horrific capacitors that are known for causing a lot of power ripple. It's one of the main psus series recommended that people avoid due to it's vast documentation of issues.

So sadly, you can go very wrong with them.



I must have got very lucky then...it works for me, but then i don't get turned on by terms like 'japanese caps', 'military grade' and other esoteric bull.
 
Man of Honour
Joined
13 Oct 2006
Posts
91,019
Neither of those are really esoteric bs - "military" grade with electronics are an actual thing usually denoting a variant of a component with wider temperature operating range - you also get "automotive" as a grade as well.

The implications of Japanese caps has somewhat diminished of late as others are catching up but still - there used to be a significant, documented, difference in the lifespan, etc. of them versus others - I still tend to use Panasonic AE caps for a reason.
 
Soldato
Joined
6 Jun 2008
Posts
11,618
Location
Finland
The corsair VS series that you just recommended have a plethora of issues and horrific capacitors that are known for causing a lot of power ripple.
A lot of Foo regarding PSU's in my opinion, pc parts are becoming tainted with the mysticism i normally associate with hi-fi enthusiasts
Actually cheap maker caps can work equally well when new.
Question is more about long term reliability.

For example plug used to seal capacitor's can must me good, or electrolyte can evaporate/leak more or less fast.
Besides electrolyte staying inside especially low-ESR caps demand high quality electrolyte to stay operating in specs.
In some cases copied by cheap makers electrolyte lacked stabilizers, resulting caps self destructing even without any slightest use.

High quality capacitors makers are surely lot more precise about raw materials and do lot more testing of them and made caps.
With production itself being automated raw materials and regular testing is no doubt notable price increasing factor.


About 10 years ago helped neighbour chose parts (and then assembled it) for photoshopping PC.
Choosing parts I said that Fuhjyyu capacitors equipped PSU bundled with Antec Sonata II (bad cooling) case isn't known from reliability.
Five months later got call, that trying to start PC had resulted popping sound from PSU.
Next PSU with second tier OST/Teapo worked fair four years before developing very typical for failing caps cold start problem.
After that gave my some years used Seasonic M12, which kept working in that case for few years before in PC upgrade that case was ditched for modern case.
That PSU is nearing 11 years age.

When getting Dell U3014 (3½ years ago) I recapped my old rather heavily used 1920x1200 LG W2600HP (Korean SamWha caps in it) selling it to neighbour to replace his 20" 1600x1200 LG from time of that PC construction.
That 20" LG had two of the three SamXons in PSUs rail powering backlight's inverter clearly bulged.
I suspect it might have started to have cold start problems at summer with increasing room temperature finishing those SamXons.
After recapping with high quality caps that LG went to my father to replace 17 years old Nokia 449x CRT. (no cheap caps in that)

For comparison Samsung CRT I had before getting first LCD developed cold start problem in six years.
Samsung has used cheap capacitors literally as break up timers.
Underhand Tactics: Planned Obsolescence document included those.

APC Back-UPS ES of that neighbour also started going haywire, because of cheap Chinese capacitors in control electronics.
Digital TV set top boxes also have often cheap capacitors. (Topfield known for them)
Basically lots of stuff is designed to last longer only in light use.
With cheap capacitors being typically one of their weakest spots.
 
Man of Honour
Joined
13 Oct 2006
Posts
91,019
Found that with some Belkin networking stuff like switches - capacitors go >5 years <10 years with the result they go haywire - if you can be bothered to replace the capacitors they'll happily run indefinitely.
 
Back
Top Bottom