AA battery - which are best?

I hope no one else posted this but imo.

8.8 cm Flak 18/36/37/41
MIOsRXo.jpeg

4 of these bad boys will clear the skys no problems


I bought IKEA AA and AAAs they seem to be comparable to Eneloops, possibly made by Panasonic.
 
I bought a 32* pack of energisers for the Quest 2 for 12 quid, thinking it was going to be like the old Rift and gobble batteries. I have only changed the batteries which came with it for the Energisers and the Energisers have just kept going and going. Was quite cheap buying such a large pack but I expect they will mostly get used by my grandkids' toys.

I tend to trust these to not leak. Other brands, less so.
 
Loads of Eneloops (both 2k and 2.4k) here. Though will look at the LADDA reading the above.

Nitecore D4 has been going strong as a charger.
 
so no takers/purchasers on this style (if there is now vat in aliexpress it's not obvious)

I haven't bought any more nimh/eneloop, becauses I found razer/torch/wireless-thermostat don't work with them, link suggested occulus has same issue.

I'm also suspicious that some remotes don't like the 1.2/3 nimh voltage, had previously thought the remotes keypad was old/unreliable,
but now wonder if it is the old nimh's instead.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000183939495.html

50826958113_2f4e891c8b_o_d.jpg
 
No much a of review. he points out the obvious - LiPo hold charge longer - but doesnt test the endurance of the batteries in any way. In cases where i would need 1.5v i would consider them, but i've not personally found anything that runs on AA's to have problems with a good set of nimh's.
 
are cheap lipo really safe? like from alixpress
I've had a few dodgy usb cables over the years from ebay/amazon etc that got really hot charging cos they obviously use the thinnest wires possible


even a 1.5v battery can make a fire.

take an old normal AA and a paper clip, touch both battery connections together and watch how hot the paper clip glows
 
james.miller said:
No much a of review.
Click to expand...

That 'review' is not much yes .. much more compelling

https://mikeriversaudio.files.wordpress.com/2019/11/paleblue_rechargeable_battery_review.pdf
Charge capacity is specified as 1550 mA-hr, which is about 25% less than that of a standard alkaline AA cell or the Sanyo Eneloop rechargeables that I usually use in my handheld recorders. A freshly charged PaleBlue cell has a terminal voltage of 1.47 volts under a 100 mA load, slightly lower than an alkaline cell, but the claim (and I verified this – details later) is that, unlike an alkaline cell whose terminal voltage drops slowly but continuously during use until it finally peters out, the PaleBlue has a very flat discharge curve which drops off like a cliff at the end of its discharge cycle.

every time I looked at it. With the Eneloop NiMH cells that I usually use with this recorder (they hold a charge on the shelf for several months), the battery indicator drops to two bars within the first two hours, then drops to one bar at around six hours, and finally quits after eleven hours and a few minutes. The difference in operating time is consistent with the difference in specified capacity in Ampere-hours, so here, theory and practice agree pretty well.

But . . . and there’s always a “but” – I figured that in order to maintain the efficiency of the primary voltage source, it must be a switching-mode voltage regulator - and switching regulators can radiate electromagnetic energy if they’re not well filtered and shielded. Since I was most likely to use these batteries in a portable digital recorder, I wanted to see if radiated EMI (electromagnetic interference) was going to cause a problem.

When it’s discharging under load, all hell breaks loose. The period of the sawtooth wave gets shorter and shorter (frequency gets higher) as the load current increases. And with increasing load, another frequency shows up riding on the leading edge of the sawtooth. This is what’s coming out of a cell other than the DC voltage, when it’s loaded with 15Ω (100 mA). The sawtooth, which now looks more like a triangle, is about 30 mV peak-to-peak amplitude at 225 kHz
I waved a PaleBlue around the radio case and antenna and found that it produced a distinct buzz with the radio tuned to a dead spot on the low end of the dial, a sound expected from a sawtooth waveform. The buzz became audible when the battery came within about six inches from the antenna. When loading the battery with a 15Ω resistor, (a 100 mA load), it produced a strong hiss with the radio tuned to a dead spot near 1 MHz. This is consistent with the frequency of the sine waves riding on top of the sawtooth that you see in the ‘scope photo.
Click to expand...

some negatives yes.

... I have not checked the initial voltage out of my ageing eneloops, but as I say , I suspicious that some of my remotes maybe unreliable because of that,
as opposed to wear on the keyboard membrane ... just need to try a frresh pair of alkalines to confirm/deny that hypothesis.
 
Buy Fujitsu black batteries (Fujitsu makes Eneloop as well, since they bought the factory from Panasonic). They're also made in Japan, not China. Some of the Eneloops are now made in China.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom