** Acme [Akagi] bought a pink estate car - E30 325i project log! **

But a Lexus generally has a totally different interior, totally different body panels, a different range of engines. The Eunos Roadster is literally an MX-5 with a different badge. That's the only difference. And the spec varies between models from the same region let alone across the different markets, so that's a completely irrelevant point. They are the same car built by the same people in the same factory!

Eunos even sold a couple of Citroen models under their brand name in Japan. They haven't done any re-engineering. It's just a badge.

It isn't literally the same, they came with different options, different diffs, in some cases even engines which were subtly different to those we got here. Different interior options, different paint options, different wheel options, etc. ;)

The MK2 Eunos Roadster could come with a 146HP engine which we didn't get here, for example.

A Toyota Altezza is literally a Lexus IS with a different badge, but it isn't one. :p

A Nissan Primestar, Renault Traffic, and Vauxhall Vivaro, are all exactly the same vans, but they aren't each other. They are what they are.
 
I understand perfectly fine that you think they are the same car even though they're not but they are. Lets just leave it there, this is being horribly derailed again :p

You can call Eunos Roadsters Mazda MX5's, and I'll continue calling them Eunos Roadsters, and we can all be happy.

It is the same, but I go from what it was sold as and what it was badged as, rather than what its called in the country where I live. :p
 
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I swear this thread is about 10% actual Touring content, 5% discussion about the Touring content, 40% random ideas and hyperbole around ideas that never happen, and 45% absolute unrelated babbling. Makes it pretty difficult to willfully come back to, especially when all you want to see if project progress.

In my defence, I usually don't start it. :p
 
New stuff:

Few bits and pieces lined up for this now. Have a re-built 3.64 188 case LSD with a Z3M bush fitted sitting waiting in the shed, a genuine Alpina front valance sitting in the loft along with an uncracked dashboard and a brand new genuine rear screen (my one doesn't de-mist properly anymore) - Also have a new heater blower motor because mine wails like a banshee.

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Stuff thats broken...

Few new issues have cropped up after the cold weather, it really didn't seem to like being out in the cold... The oil level sensor seems to have become intermittent, as has the tail light wiring on one side, the door open switch on the drivers door is being weird again but that should be an easy fix, the headlight switch seems to have some kind of loose connection whereby it turns the lights on and off etc, but doesn't always illuminate the interior lights/cluster etc unless you wiggle it. I have most of the bits to sort these niggles in a box in the loft so not a huge issue.

The power steering was a bit "lumpy" and seemed to cut in and out during the first 100 yards of its first drive after being left out in the snow, I'm hoping thats not the start of something more serious as its already had a refurbished rack fitted, and the ATF level seems fine for the power steering.

Have fitted a new battery, 740CCA and 76AH as opposed the the previous 660CCA and 70AH battery. The one one was also totally dud and wouldn't hold a charge, but the upgrade in capacity is welcome, along with a battery isolator.

Other stuff:

Still waiting to hear back from the bodyshop regarding the bits of welding getting re-done, the re-spray, and other bits and pieces I am having them do. They are very polite and professional but most bodyshops seem a little bit hopeless with communication from what I've read from other peoples projects etc. They are also amidst a premises move so its to be expected I suppose, but the hope of it being ready by show season is dwindling.

ABS is still broken... Really haven't had the inclination to look into it, I hate diagnosing ABS problems. I'll have to dig into it again at some point though!

I do also need my spare 885 head re-building if anyone has machine shop recommendations reasonably close to Brighton. It needs new valve guides (brass, press-in), valve stem seals, a valve/seat lap, and skim.
 
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@Cookeh Alpina C2 Touring with the Alpina valance - https://www.classicheroes.co.uk/alpina-c2-2-7-touring

Good thinking with the blower motor, I'll give the new one a greasing before I put it in, and keep the other one as a spare in case it does just need greasing.

With the ABS I'm pretty sure its either the relay on the ABS pump or one of the sensors. I need to test each of the sensors really. I have replaced one, but I had to drill the old one out, thats how seized in place it was... I'd rather not have to do that again if I'm completely honest!
 
Sticker won't go on straight away, but eventually they will all go on cos I plan on making it a full replica. Engine and all.

Side skirts will stay as is, that's how they were.
 
Bought some new wheels.

I was originally after some 15x7 4x100 BBS Mahle's but couldn't find any because they are as rare as rocking horse poo, so I ended up with some Melber weaves which are quite similar.

I've found some BBS Mahle's now, a set of 5, all straight, no repairs etc, bead blasted ready for refurb. Getting them done in Porsche Titan Grey Metallic, and the lips I shall polish. :)

And found a buyer for the Melbers. All is well.
 
Car developed a really strong fuelly smell when the tank was approaching full, diagnosed it as the largest of the three hoses which go to the breather tank leaking at the tank end where it goes on the stub under the plate under the back seat, near the fuel pump. It acts as an overflow when the fuel is sloshing around.

When I re fitted the tank originally I had to trim the end off as it had split, I intended to replace it but forgot about it. Its now split again as you'd expect on the new end where I lopped it off.

So bought a new hose which I will install in due course... Its actually surprisingly expensive to buy a 1.3 metre length of 14id 20od fuel resistant hose... Opted to spend £15 on a non reinforced nitrile fuel hose since its not carrying any pressure, as opposed to spending £50 (!!) on a genuine reinforced one.

Also need to clean up and re underseal the inner sill and side of the fuel tank as the petrol leak has washed it all off. Lovely
 
Installed the new fuel hose, and noticed that the fuel hose channel which goes under the back seat has rotted out despite my best efforts to prevent the existing rust from getting any worse, so that will have to be replaced. Just when I thought the welding was concluded. :D :p
 
BBS Mahles have gone off for refurb, polished libs with Porsche Titan Grey metallic centres.
Bought a full cruise control kit which will sit in the cupboard for ages along with the full on-board-computer kit, the re-built limited slip diff, big-bore throttle body, 885 head with schrick cams, genuine Alpina valance, and other stuff I'm 'saving' for once the bodywork and paintwork is done... I've reverted back to wanting Mora metallic.

At this point I think I should probably get spare parts cover... :p

Car itself is running fine but the PAS tensioner needs replacing because I tried to adjust it without loosening the pivot bolt and I sheared a couple of teeth off because I'm an idiot. :p
 
To be honest its more because of my bond with the car at this point. If I were starting again I wouldn't do it. I probably wouldn't buy an E30 at all, it would be an E21 or an E28.

But I've learned so much, gone to so many shows, met so many people, made so many friends, I thought about selling it and I just couldn't do it. This car opened a whole new chapter of my life.
 
Rather large repair panel obtained, which has been in someones loft for 10 - 15 years. Obviously for a 4 door, but can be joined up somewhere between the swage line and the window line. :)

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Again, it will just end up in the loft until such time that the car goes to the bodyshop. But when an no-longer-available panel surfaces for cheap, you buy it.

In case you are wondering about the paint on the rear quarter, I think one of the lower coats gassed off at a different rate to the higher coats... I changed the type of lacquer I was using half way through... Turns out that is a massive painting no-no! It looked good for a few weeks then started cracking. It has now reached peak cracked-ness. :p

It was also in attendance at the Retro-rides weekender, don't believe I've mentioned that in here...

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Grilles have faded again. :p

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Try Wurth Plastic PT Dye or whatever the hell its called. Worked for 7 months on my 850 bumpers over winter without me putting any protection over the top of them. Or just respray the buggers with the stuff Lopez was using on his Escort.
I'm just going to get all the black plastic trims de-scuffed and painted satin black when it gets re sprayed anyway.
 
No change with this really, fitted a new tail light seal which has cured my leak into the boot pocket finally, part was £19 from BMW. For a little rubber gasket thing. Dear me...

Also listed about £2K worth of rare options and spares for sale, because I have decided that I would just be fitting them for the sake of it, and I'd rather have the spare cash.

Cruise control kit, on board computer kit, map light mirror, etc.
 
Getting her back soon having had a rear panel repair section welded in, new rear subframe bushes, rear disks, pads, handbrake shoes, brake hoses, brake lines, my E30 M3 LSD being fitted, Z3M diff bush, new LSD oil, the exhaust front to mid section re-made, and an oil and filter service.

Bought some AVO R2 Monotube race coilovers, GAZ Billet front top mounts and pillowball rear top mounts. Combined with the front strut brace, E36 M3 front eccentric bushes, and a few other bits it already has, it should be a handling weapon.

Now waiting for my new wheels to be finished and I'll get them wrapped in some new rubber one profile shorter than the stock baloon tyres.

After that that just leaves the big re-spray/bodywork job which won't happen until somewhen later next year at the earliest.
 
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