Advice please on cutting a slot in a built-in wardrobe

Quartz · 21 Mar 2019 at 14:28

What's the best way to cut a slot from behind for cables into a built-in wardrobe?

I've moved my PC into a wardrobe to reduce noise. It's early days but it seems to be working well. Unfortunately, because of the cables, I cannot close the door.

Note the presence of the radiator.

What I need to do is cut a slot through which I can pass the cables.

I'm thinking that a slot 1" x 3" just above the skirting board should be sufficient.

But because of the radiator, I'm going to have to cut it from the back side. So how do I keep things straight? That surround is two pieces of wood and the whole is over 4" thick. Would the best way be to cut a small slot and enlarge it with a file or rasp? I have a drill attachment to cut a 1" hole direct but how do I keep it straight?

Or am I completely up the wrong tree and there's a much better way of doing it? I'm not keen on cutting holes in the floorboards.

And if you have any suggestions for a surround, I'm open. Theoretically what I need is a brushed rectangular grommet with sleeve, but I can't find one of even near the right size.

samcat · 21 Mar 2019 at 14:35

Assuming its plaster board... Drill two holes, one at the top and one at the bottom of where you want the slot. Get a coping saw, or just using a hacksaw blade cut the verticals. Done.

Would pulling the carpet and running under the floor be an option? Use a pair of brushed faceplates to make it look nice... Would look nicer than a slot IMO.

ANDARIAL · 21 Mar 2019 at 14:54

Can`t you drill a hole in the plasterboard/timber behind the lining?
Look much neater that way

Quartz · 21 Mar 2019 at 15:29

samcat said:
Assuming its plaster board... Drill two holes, one at the top and one at the bottom of where you want the slot. Get a coping saw, or just using a hacksaw blade cut the verticals. Done.

Ah yes, a coping saw looks far better than a large drill bit.

Would pulling the carpet and running under the floor be an option? Use a pair of brushed faceplates to make it look nice... Would look nicer than a slot IMO.

I'm leery of drilling through the floorboards because I don't want to provide an entry point for insects and vermin. And I don't know what's underneath.

ANDARIAL said:
Can`t you drill a hole in the plasterboard/timber behind the lining?

What do you mean by 'behind the lining'?

ANDARIAL · 21 Mar 2019 at 15:33

Where you have the tape measure between 1 and 2 inch mark cut 2-3 holes about 25mm diameter then cut out waste with a padsaw or similar.
And has been suggested above get a brush faceplate to cover slot and look neater

Quartz · 21 Mar 2019 at 15:50

ANDARIAL said:
Where you have the tape measure between 1 and 2 inch mark

That's what I'm proposing to do: have a 3" vertical slot there.

ANDARIAL · 21 Mar 2019 at 16:33

Quartz said:
That's what I'm proposing to do: have a 3" vertical slot there.

ahhh i see now

Thought you were going to cut a slot straight through the opening to the wall :confused:

Quartz · 21 Mar 2019 at 17:26

ANDARIAL said:
Thought you were going to cut a slot straight through the opening to the wall

Anyway, since I'm going to be drilling the initial holes from behind, how do I ensure they are straight?

Martynt74 · 21 Mar 2019 at 21:01

Given the proximity to the wall you’d probably be fine resting the body of the drill against the wall.

Otherwise could you not just lift the radiator off the brackets and tilt?

Mark M · 21 Mar 2019 at 21:44

Multi tool!

Tony Edwards · 21 Mar 2019 at 22:15

Quartz said:
Anyway, since I'm going to be drilling the initial holes from behind, how do I ensure they are straight?

If you are going to use a coping saw it wont really matter if they are straight or not. Mark out your slot, drill hole in the middle somewhere if you are not confident about the angle of the drill bit then put blade through and cut out slot. [.] I wouldnt bother with a 1" drill bit, just use one bigger than the blade can turn easily in.

Quartz · 21 Mar 2019 at 22:46

Marvt74 said:
Otherwise could you not just lift the radiator off the brackets and tilt?

No, I can't: the valve doesn't tilt.

vanandjuanunited · 21 Mar 2019 at 22:51

Drill from inside

Quartz · 21 Mar 2019 at 22:55

Tony Edwards said:
If you are going to use a coping saw it wont really matter if they are straight or not.

Okay, it's off to Screwfix in the morning!

Tony Edwards · 21 Mar 2019 at 23:15

Quartz said:
Okay, it's off to Screwfix in the morning!

Get a couple of spare blades incase you break one aswell. Unless screwfix is outside your front door.

Quartz · 22 Mar 2019 at 00:56

Tony Edwards said:
Get a couple of spare blades incase you break one aswell. Unless screwfix is outside your front door.

Oh yes! And a rasp and a file for finishing. I have some sandpaper.

jpaul · 22 Mar 2019 at 07:37

I'd be concerned about ventilation in the wardrobe ... but to avoid long term damage cut a notch in the door corner (and keep the piece) ?

JC · 22 Mar 2019 at 07:44

Is the wall with the radiator studded or solid.

Do you have an option to go in there, then route the cables through the wall cavity and back in the wardrobe.

jpaul · 22 Mar 2019 at 08:05

jpaul said:
but to avoid long term damage cut a notch in the door corner

maybe tidying with a 1/4 section cut from a desk grommet https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01GV0PJ1C

Quartz · 22 Mar 2019 at 09:10

jpaul said:
I'd be concerned about ventilation in the wardrobe ...

Ventilation isn't an issue; there's plenty of airflow thanks to the door being on runner wheels and a big gap farther up.

but to avoid long term damage cut a notch in the door corner (and keep the piece) ?

The door is a mirror, so no notch is possible.

JC said:
Is the wall with the radiator studded or solid.

Studded, and there appears to be a vertical in the way. I'm not ready to make that leap just yet. If the joists run the right way I'll go underfloor all the way with some drainpipe if I'm going to those lengths.

I am not practised in DIY. If I botch this, it's relatively simple to fix; if I botch a job with the floor or the wall, that's much more difficult to repair.