Am I missing anything?

VersionMonkey

VersionMonkey

VersionMonkey

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Yorkshire
Yet another noob advice thread, sorry everybody. Well, noob at custom watercooling anyway.

Thought I might finally give a custom loop a try. Right now just for the fun and experience rather with any particular performance target. I do have in mind looking out for a GPU (6900XT) with a pre-fitted waterblock (if I manage to rationalise away the price - currently working on a theory that I could keep it cool and perhaps undervolted for several years and only overclock it once I start to find games struggling and that way I can extend its life. Not convinced myself of that yet though).

Anyway, back on topic. I came up with this list of parts for an initial CPU (Ryzen 1800x) loop:

My basket at Overclockers UK:
Total: £566.02 (includes shipping: £10.50)​
​

Plus a 5l bottle of plain distilled water for flushing/testing from elsewhere (can't see that OC supply that).

As per the thread title, am I missing anything? Tried to stick with all EK to be certain of compatibility (hey I'm a noob at this), with the exception of the temperature sensor which EK don't seem to do an equivalent of.

If I were to get a card with a block on it (the reference 6900XTs that OC currently have in stock are a bit tempting as I could get an EK block for them, but given the price I'd care about the warranty), then I would add in a SE 360 radiator as well. And I'll probably get a Ryzen 5900x or more likely 5950x, probably once the X570S boards are available.

I plan to build the loop on the bench first, to get the hang of it and make sure I'm not making a terrible, expensive, mistake and then rebuild it in my PC. Hence the big bottle of distilled.

I see from the sticky guide in this forum that finger tight plus half a turn with a wrench is recommended for fittings - is that still the case with fittings into Plexi (I guess with EK fittings it would be half a turn of the allen key)?

Any other comments that you haven't said a thousand times before?
 
I agree with miketimbers no wrench/spanner
Unless you have very weak hands
Then hand tightened is enough
That's a lot of cash
Did you look in water-cooling clearance section
Of ocuk?
Usually bargains to be had there
Personally I wouldnt spend out on the leak tester
What about a PSU jumper?
They're cheap anyway though usually I just use
A netting staple or whatever bit of wire I have to hand
 
For the ball valve I was going to put in a short piece of tube from the splitter - enough to be able get it outside of the case.

The splitter itself would be in one of the tubes from the radiator (which would be mounted in the front of the case, with
connections down, making it be the lowest point in the loop, in my mental map of how I want to join up the loop).

Noted both comments about tightness, thanks.

I have a basic PSU tester which would also serve to turn on the PSU, but I also have lots of bits of left-over wire from
adventures in electronics (just don't ask to see my soldering).

It seems that this week is AIO week in the watercooling deals section. I guess my choice of all-EK is probably pushing up the total cost, but
apart from the leak tester and maybe one or two too many fittings (I could probably do without the 90° fittings as I'm using soft tubes,
I guess), I can't see much to take out?

Thank for the comments both.
 
VersionMonkey said:
For the ball valve I was going to put in a short piece of tube from the splitter - enough to be able get it outside of the case.

The splitter itself would be in one of the tubes from the radiator (which would be mounted in the front of the case, with
connections down, making it be the lowest point in the loop, in my mental map of how I want to join up the loop).

Noted both comments about tightness, thanks.

I have a basic PSU tester which would also serve to turn on the PSU, but I also have lots of bits of left-over wire from
adventures in electronics (just don't ask to see my soldering).

It seems that this week is AIO week in the watercooling deals section. I guess my choice of all-EK is probably pushing up the total cost, but
apart from the leak tester and maybe one or two too many fittings (I could probably do without the 90° fittings as I'm using soft tubes,
I guess), I can't see much to take out?

Thank for the comments both.
Click to expand...
Are you sure you're looking in the right section?
It's deals/clearance/water-cooling
Should be all sorts of stuff in there
And as it's B grade you can make offers on it
To save even more money
If all you saw was AIO you may be looking in
This week only deals/water-cooling
 
Mcnumpty2323 said:
Are you sure you're looking in the right section?
It's deals/clearance/water-cooling
Should be all sorts of stuff in there
And as it's B grade you can make offers on it
To save even more money
If all you saw was AIO you may be looking in
This week only deals/water-cooling
Click to expand...

You are quite right, I was looking in just the weekly deals.

It looks like I'd need to mix and match manufacturers to take advantage of the current deals.

I'll take a look through and see what I can work out, thanks.
 
VersionMonkey said:
You are quite right, I was looking in just the weekly deals.

It looks like I'd need to mix and match manufacturers to take advantage of the current deals.

I'll take a look through and see what I can work out, thanks.
Click to expand...
Yeah it can change on a daily basis
What's in clearance section

And forgot to mention for radiators I prefer cross flow/X flow
The tubing goes in one end out the other
Instead of both the same end
Can lead to a tidier build with less tubing runs
I also like the multiple ports version
They can be useful for a fill port or drain port
Instead of having to use a T piece
 
attach the ball valve via a m2m at the lowest point of the loop. To drain, attach a piece of soft tubing to the ball valve and then open the valve.
 
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