Another bathroom thread

Caporegime
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13 Nov 2006
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28,554
There seem to be a few of these around at the moment, thought I'd join the trend.

The current task is refurbishing a shower cubicle which has damp as deep as the stud wall, no further. Two walls are brick, and two are stud walls, the floor is concrete. Shower tray is raised.

The diameter of the cubicle is 1200 x 770, which happens to be the exact size of the old shower tray, meaning that it was previously boarded to the tray lip and then tiled over it. Ideally this would not be repeated and therefore the current thought is to go for a smaller tray measuring 1100 x 700. This means that the walls will need to be battened out a fair bit, calculations as follows:

Cubicle size 1200 x 770
New tray size 1100 x 700
770 - 700 - 25 (12.5 x 2 plaster boards) - 38 (batten) = 7 = 3.5mm gap each side
1200 - 1100 - 25 - 63 (batten) = 12 = 6mm gap each side

Does that stack up? If so, it raises some questions:

1. Should the 63mm batten be fitted as an entire new stud wall against/onto the brick, or would single battens suffice?
2. If using single battens - 63mm is a big ol' size to fix to brick, is it better to use brackets to attach the wood to the wall as opposed to really long screws through the wood?
3. Are those gaps left each side OK in terms of being optimal for sealing and tiling?
4. Is this even the best course of action? Should we revert back to the existing 1200 x 770? Would rather not.

Other questions:

5. Replacing stud wall sections due to mould/damp - easy enough - but should there be some protection between them and the concrete floor? Currently only one side appears to have some sort of mat/vinyl type covering between the wood and the floor.
6. As mentioned previously, the shower tray has been raised and has been raised on a wooden frame, with what looks like chipboard supporting the tray and metal threaded legs to hold it all up. This has given the tray quite a lot of height, more than the 100mm legs that seem to be common. Currently plan to replicate this lifting method on the new tray, would appreciate any thoughts.

Thanks - I'm guessing @200sols and @Buffman in particular may be able to offer help
 
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I would use marmox or jackoboard or similar rather than plasterboard.

To help with your dimensioning/studding out you can get thicker sizes e.g. 20mm thick.


Id prefer a larger shower if you can but struggling to quite understand your issue with the larger size tray.

Also, I'd see if you can break out the tray, and lower the waste which possibly will mean coring a new hole outside your house. Purely because I don't like steps into a shower but you might not be bothered.
 
I would use marmox or jackoboard or similar rather than plasterboard.
Board is Knauf Aquapanel - moisture resistant.

To help with your dimensioning/studding out you can get thicker sizes e.g. 20mm thick.


Id prefer a larger shower if you can but struggling to quite understand your issue with the larger size tray.
Issue with the larger tray is that it's the exact size of the wall to wall space. So the board would only go as far as the tray edge, this seems less than ideal. To me it makes more sense to board down to the floor and tank the whole lot then fit the tray in?

Also, I'd see if you can break out the tray, and lower the waste which possibly will mean coring a new hole outside your house. Purely because I don't like steps into a shower but you might not be bothered.
Too much effort, the piping is laid out pretty poorly, generally, so it's going in directions that will mean other rooms will need to be dug out etc. Step will be OK, not ideal but OK.

This shower doesn't really get used much so it's fine if some space is lost and the step remains.
 
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1. Should the 63mm batten be fitted as an entire new stud wall against/onto the brick, or would single battens suffice?
I'd probably build that as a stud wall, get it dead level etc. Fix to floor and ceiling with some brackets fixing it to the wall, although they arent really needed. As you say fixing long screws through 63mm often results in a poor fix.
3. Are those gaps left each side OK in terms of being optimal for sealing and tiling?
Once you have your wall boards down the floor the tray will sit right against it. I'd use a classiseal https://www.amazon.co.uk/Classi-Sea...ocphy=9045794&hvtargid=pla-421756607725&psc=1
4. Is this even the best course of action? Should we revert back to the existing 1200 x 770? Would rather not.
I wouldn't. Studding out has extra benefits like fitting a recess and concealed valve with ease as well.
5. Replacing stud wall sections due to mould/damp - easy enough - but should there be some protection between them and the concrete floor? Currently only one side appears to have some sort of mat/vinyl type covering between the wood and the floor.
Yes there should. Even if the concrete floor already contains a dpc. Just to keep the wood off the concrete
6. As mentioned previously, the shower tray has been raised and has been raised on a wooden frame, with what looks like chipboard supporting the tray and metal threaded legs to hold it all up. This has given the tray quite a lot of height, more than the 100mm legs that seem to be common. Currently plan to replicate this lifting method on the new tray, would appreciate any thoughts.
Yep its common, chipboard under tray to spread the load and then legs or wooden frame to raise. The plastic legs are fine btw, most shower trays will have a specific kit available.
 
Thanks @200sols, very

Once you have your wall boards down the floor the tray will sit right against it. I'd use a classiseal https://www.amazon.co.uk/Classi-Sea...ocphy=9045794&hvtargid=pla-421756607725&psc=1


I wouldn't. Studding out has extra benefits like fitting a recess and concealed valve with ease as well.

Yes there should. Even if the concrete floor already contains a dpc. Just to keep the wood off the concrete

Yep its common, chipboard under tray to spread the load and then legs or wooden frame to raise. The plastic legs are fine btw, most shower trays will have a specific kit available.
 
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