anyone opine on how old this gas boiler is please

Will definitely need a 22mm feed

Quailty Black Label EN 1057 Copper Tube 22mm x 3mtr length presently £19:98p @ B&Q, joiners, elbows about £1- £1:50p each.
 
Last edited:
We changed our boiler a couple of years ago from an old Worcester to a Veissmann. The old system wasn't a combi though.

Bills plummeted. In fact so much so that we now leave the heating on all the time (on a thermostat) rather than timed. I do work from home though, so it makes sense. Whereas before I'd just wear more jumpers. Bills are still much cheaper, another year or two and the boiler will have paid for itself. Despite having 24hr heating.
 
I paid £2500 recently

WB 30CDi
7 Rads (various sizes and BTU)
6 TRV's (Drayton TRV4)
Wireless programmer (Proper WB one)

Work involved.
Removing old water tank and overflow tank.
Reomoving old boiler.
Moving boiler to a different location and installing
Connecting up to mains gas.

Moving and replacing all radiators.
New plumbing on 2 floors.
Chemical flush and inhibitor.

Took them 3 days.
Yeah the TRV's and thw wireless controller can cut the cost hugely.
But I read some of the cheaper TRV's were utter junk and thought I dont plan on redoing this anytime soon.
 
Nightglow said:
Will definitely need a 22mm feed

Quailty Black Label EN 1057 Copper Tube 22mm x 3mtr length presently £19:98p @ B&Q, joiners, elbows about £1- £1:50p each.
Click to expand...

Cheers mate

inogen said:
We changed our boiler a couple of years ago from an old Worcester to a Veissmann. The old system wasn't a combi though.

Bills plummeted. In fact so much so that we now leave the heating on all the time (on a thermostat) rather than timed. I do work from home though, so it makes sense. Whereas before I'd just wear more jumpers. Bills are still much cheaper, another year or two and the boiler will have paid for itself. Despite having 24hr heating.
Click to expand...
I actually had a hat on in bed lol

~Divine~Wind~ said:
I paid £2500 recently

WB 30CDi
7 Rads (various sizes and BTU)
6 TRV's (Drayton TRV4)
Wireless programmer (Proper WB one)

Work involved.
Removing old water tank and overflow tank.
Reomoving old boiler.
Moving boiler to a different location and installing
Connecting up to mains gas.

Moving and replacing all radiators.
New plumbing on 2 floors.
Chemical flush and inhibitor.

Took them 3 days.
Yeah the TRV's and thw wireless controller can cut the cost hugely.
But I read some of the cheaper TRV's were utter junk and thought I dont plan on redoing this anytime soon.
Click to expand...
That seems a really good deal
 
Worcester Bosch mailed me back saying boiler is from 1998, I`m still of a mind to replace it as I have a largish semi (lol), three bedrooms large living room etc and this boiler output is only 24kw whereas I`m thinking the Vaillant Ecoplus one that is circa 31kw would be of a more appropriate output, give a better flow rate and ultimately be more economical.
 
Nightglow said:
That would be a Valiant EcoTec plus 837, but have a look at the Vaillant Ecotec Plus 937 Power Store Combi Boiler, which has twin 7.5 ltrs tanks of store hot water.

The hot water flow rate is even higher at 15.2 to 20.0ltrs.

http://www.vaillant.co.uk/stepone2/data/downloads/f4/42/00/ecoTEC_plus_937_sales_brochure.pdf
Click to expand...

ah, so that would give me awesome flow rate, better shower performance, WHICH I am considering as I currently have a puny electric shower. My boiler is sited kinda outside in a small brick 'lean to' type part of the house and might not have enough room for both housings,hmmm
 
Depth of boiler is 597mm, so a little deeper than a normal boiler.

Shows layout design in brochure link, also I see you can add a weather compensator to the boiler.
 
Last edited:
24kw should be sufficient for a decent 3 bed semi, before you upgrade the boiler i'd replace the rads, or atlest have them cleaned, you'll be suuprised how much gunge gets built up over the years in em. Its a pretty decent boiler that tbh.

I'd also look at how well insulated your house is too, that again can make a big difference in terms of heat retention, for eg, my place has double glazing, but the seals are old so lots of cold air can get in.
 
Tinders said:
I'd replace the rads, or atlest have them cleaned, you'll be suuprised how much gunge gets built up over the years in em.
Click to expand...

Done that here a few months ago, amazing how much crud came out, only one problem though, have had to replace two rads, which developed pin ***** holes along the bottom after flushing.:mad:

The Eco Tec 824 I have, is 24Kw, & will serve up to 14 radiators according service engineer.
 
Last edited:
Tinders said:
24kw should be sufficient for a decent 3 bed semi, before you upgrade the boiler i'd replace the rads, or atlest have them cleaned, you'll be suuprised how much gunge gets built up over the years in em. Its a pretty decent boiler that tbh.

I'd also look at how well insulated your house is too, that again can make a big difference in terms of heat retention, for eg, my place has double glazing, but the seals are old so lots of cold air can get in.
Click to expand...

Cheers, yes I had been told the boiler was decent for its day, I'm just wondering whether to do the lot while I'm at it , flow rate from this one seems pretty poor tbh, AND I have micro bore pipe too which maybe I should be replacing?
 
Well if your considering replace the whole lot, then split the heating into two zones ground & 1st floor with seperate room stat for each zone, it's known as Full Zoning, .
 
Last edited:
Nightglow said:
Well if your considering replace the whole lot, then split the heating into two zones ground & 1st floor with seperate room stat for each zone, it's known as Full Zoning, .
Click to expand...

sounds interesting, sort of have a zone delineated by valve in pipework for each zone?, operated by a thermostat of course, is this trivial for most plumbers?
 
its an easy job to do but will cost you more..

new regs that have come in means you have to zone when its a full new system..

i'd just keep your current pipework, fit trv's and a wall stat and this will be efficient enough.

whats the point in zoning a small house when you're in and and of doors and floors anyway, you'll still get heat loss from other floors even if they are zoned..
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom