Anyone using a butchers block countertop as a desk?

Thanks that's helpful. Does it last for a long time or do you have to redo it?
It's lasted me three years and still looks as good as new, despite spillages, minor scrapes (which don't show) etc. It's such a great oil. They say you should think about applying another coat after a few years, but I haven't seen the need yet.
 
Made my own standing desk using a Linak Df1 (well, a Flomotion "skyflo" which is a rebadged linak), and a solid walnut 40mm worktop, 160x80cm deep but to size by Worktop Express. I finished the edges with a router, sanded smooth, and applied 3 coats of rustins oil

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Will eventually replace my mismatched monitors with a 34" ultrawide but they do for now.

Need to find a rug to replace the ikea desk mat, that is smooth enough for chair. Carpet is way too thick.


This was from worktop express, had a few samples from others and preferred this!
 
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I use an oak desk top from domli, nice and cheap and I just stained it and added my choice of legs
 
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I wouldn't use a butchers block as a desk unless you really dig the look as the surface its inherently porous and the benefits of a butchers block aren't really required for a desk.

Osmo Top oil isn't a pure oil like butchers block oil but a hard-wax oil that sets hard without any stickiness whatsoever and provides a good durable coating. I use it on my pine kitchen table and it would work well on a desk as well.

15+ years ago I made a desk out of a bog standard Ikea birch kitchen worktop. It's 73+cm deep which was important to me as I had to cut it to fit into an alcove. 3 coats of matt varnish and it's been fine ever since but then most of the wear happens where the keyboard and mouse are and I have a 1m wide mouse mat here, so wear and "spillage" is a non-issue.
 
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Colour change will depend on the finish applied and the wood it is applied to.
Oiled pine will go orange, oiled oak will go a darker brown for example. If you want neutral/clear then a wax is your best bet as it sits on top of the grain. I haven't used osmo oil so can't comment on that. Either one will not leave a sticky residue.
Personally, if it is a hardwood I would use danish oil (a mix of oil and varnish). Easy to apply with a rag and easy to recoat in a few years time when needed. It's what I usually chose when I built furniture.
 
That's where I bought my (oak) worktop from. Do pay for chamfered edges, it is worth it. Seemed like a great company to me.

I'm probably going to get it from them, I ordered some wood samples yesterday.

Did you get the chamfered edges on all sides? What about the bottom? I can't make up my mind on this.
 
I'm probably going to get it from them, I ordered some wood samples yesterday.

Did you get the chamfered edges on all sides? What about the bottom? I can't make up my mind on this.
Yeah I did in the end. I considered trying to save money by not doing all sides, but then I thought - what if there are imperfections on one side and I want to use the other face up? So in the end thought it easier to get all sides done. I ended up doing a little sanding myself on the corners to make them even more smoother.
 
I'll be going down the worktop route but likely just a regular kitchen top £50-100. Waiting on a suitable standing desk frame (that can extend to 180cm) to come down to a sensible price.
 
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I'll be going down the worktop route but likely just a regular kitchen top £50-100. Waiting on a suitable standing desk frame (that can extend to 180cm) to come down to a sensible price.

Highly recommend the flex spot. They’ve taken over fully Jarvis for me since HM took over them.


Good price as well.
 
I wouldn't use a butchers block as a desk unless you really dig the look as the surface its inherently porous and the benefits of a butchers block aren't really required for a desk.

Osmo Top oil isn't a pure oil like butchers block oil but a hard-wax oil that sets hard without any stickiness whatsoever and provides a good durable coating. I use it on my pine kitchen table and it would work well on a desk as well.

15+ years ago I made a desk out of a bog standard Ikea birch kitchen worktop. It's 73+cm deep which was important to me as I had to cut it to fit into an alcove. 3 coats of matt varnish and it's been fine ever since but then most of the wear happens where the keyboard and mouse are and I have a 1m wide mouse mat here, so wear and "spillage" is a non-issue.


end grain oak worktop in kitchen is like a sieve with mineral oil - has been stained by placing (non-greasy) allen keys & wrench temporarily on it
equally for desk (needs to be re-surfaced) which I use for occasional delicate soldering/repair, and might put tools on, I'd want a more resilient surface
I suspect something with a varnish/sealing ingredient would be better
(where do people assemble their OC computers ? not in garage/shed)

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I’m using a 3M solid black oak kitchen top which I’ve applied 3 coats of oil onto and it’s not at all “sticky”, nor has it really changed the colour..


#2971
I'm not really in to that aesthetic (lol that makes me sound like my desk is not a mad mad mad ugly mess) but that's got me doing a heckin admire.

This was from worktop express, had a few samples from others and preferred this!

That's hot.
 
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Highly recommend the flex spot. They’ve taken over fully Jarvis for me since HM took over them.


Good price as well.
Too expensive there was a standing desk frame for just under 100 available a few weeks ago, but it went unavailable quickly! Same one is around 200 now
 
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