Anything I can do about bad window condensation?

that's the other problem with modern upvc widows inability to leave ajar without them blowing open, over night, even on 2nd floor, where you don't have security issue,
old windows, obviously had a stay, but nothing incorporated in modern day handles to do that;
(folks had some bungalow upvc replaced to put in secure small opening panels at top, too)
I can't think of a single UPVC window that doesn't have a night latch.
 
I can't think of a single UPVC window that doesn't have a night latch.
maybe I badly described what I want - these are handles I had to buy the other week - window is digital, its open (with no catch) or closed - no intermediate secure but open option.
 
maybe I badly described what I want - these are handles I had to buy the other week - window is digital, its open (with no catch) or closed - no intermediate secure but open option.
The handle isn't what gives you a night latch. It is the mechanism itself. Check the "runner" that your window lives in, it should have 2 notches - one for fully closed, one for ajar.
 
Further on from what @dlockers mentioned, some Windows have small vents at the top of them (Trickle vents) which you can open for better airflow:
Open_Trickle_Vent.jpg

If you have those it's recommended to always have them open
 
Does anyone have any recommendations for a dehumidifier? Around £200 or kess would be good.

I have a 235sqm (old) house and I'm getting the window condensation issue, too.
 
maybe I badly described what I want - these are handles I had to buy the other week - window is digital, its open (with no catch) or closed - no intermediate secure but open option.
I have the same handles and for me the window itself can be opened fully or opened a crack and then the handle closed again. Perfect for leaving a window "open" all the time.
 
Last edited:
Does anyone have any recommendations for a dehumidifier? Around £200 or kess would be good.

I have a 235sqm (old) house and I'm getting the window condensation issue, too.
We got an electriQ one from Appliances Direct that cost around £129. It's a condensing one but its worked fairly well and can be set to power on when the humidity reaches a certain level. It also has a 6L tank so I'm not having to constantly empty it.

I think they do a dessicant one for a little bit more which is likely the better unit considering it won't cool down the room further
 
The handle isn't what gives you a night latch. It is the mechanism itself. Check the "runner" that your window lives in, it should have 2 notches - one for fully closed, one for ajar.
OK when you said runner I'd looked at hinge mechanism/slots as exposed at base where there are moving runners, but now see that keeps on opening side of frame, have notch for ajar position,
as pep77 mentioned - I live and learn
However I now understand why previous owner had broken/90%sheared, the handle shaft, because there is inadequate clearance on frame to have handle in full closed position when ajar.
 
As rumple9 says but to expand, you can go down the line of hygroscopic materials to try to reduce the moisture.
Silica gel is the most common, but many common materials are hygroscopic and you can also dry them out again.

Simplest however remains airing. Each morning clear up the water (some may well reform afterwards) and then once everyone is dressed etc try to get some airflow through.
Get the warm moist air out and replaced with cold dry.
 
Last edited:
Simplest however remains airing. Each morning clear up the water (some may well reform afterwards) and then once everyone is dressed etc try to get some airflow through.
Get the warm moist air out and replaced with cold dry.

Theres the weigh up of cost of heating the house back up after cooling it down by opening windows vs the purchase and elec cost using a dehumidifier (bearing in mind the dehumidfier will throw out heat into the room as well)
 
Theres the weigh up of cost of heating the house back up after cooling it down by opening windows vs the purchase and elec cost using a dehumidifier (bearing in mind the dehumidfier will throw out heat into the room as well)
It's a lot easier to heat dry air, opposed to wet air.
 
It's a lot easier to heat dry air, opposed to wet air.

Yes but the dehumidifer is removing the wet air. I appreciate it is then drying the mechanism used to remove the moisture from the air but, as a by-product of this, its putting out heat to warm the air in the room as well.

I just wonder what is the most economical between opening windows or running a dehumidifier with windows closed.


Personally I open the windows but I do have a dehumidifer especially for drying clothes in the Winter.
 
To make you feel better.

Finished cleaning up the wood dust yesterday from window sill and windows frames, hand no longer turns black touching the window lever.

On doing this cleaning big chunks of wood fell off from the window frames, I also had to remove some moss growing inside the window. Due to the danger of the frame structure collapsing, video and pics were sent to landlord so I have fulfilled my obligation of reporting issues.

They will probably do same as other room, frankenstein fix of attaching new planks of wood over the top of the frame to reinforce it as well as grinding off the worst bits so its not generating as much wood dust from gradual rot.

Of course tons of condensation on inside of windows now with the temperature shift.

Welcome to private renting in the UK.
 
Last edited:
I love they way we have is thread every year... It's like people think they are the 1st person in the world to ever have this problem, so there is no point in typing their problem into a search engine, because it will come back with 0 results, as no one else has ever had this problem
 
could be a new cheaper window vac technology


.. on a different tack
Theres the weigh up of cost of heating the house back up after cooling it down by opening windows vs the purchase and elec cost using a dehumidifier
if the moisture were predominately from kitchen/bathroom - I'd think getting the moist air out fast with forced ventilator&window will be more efficient;
dehumidifier would be too late and moisture would be condensing somewhere undesirably in the interim, before humidifier caused its evaporation & removal,
dynamic data from a hygrometer would remain helpful

e:
I can't think of a single UPVC window that doesn't have a night latch.
well the ajar isn't really adequate for opening bathroom after shower, & even upstairs bedroom, a mechanism that allowed window to be robustly held further open would be good
 
Last edited:
.. on a different tack

if the moisture were predominately from kitchen/bathroom - I'd think getting the moist air out fast with forced ventilator&window will be more efficient;
dehumidifier would be too late and moisture would be condensing somewhere undesirably in the interim, before humidifier caused its evaporation & removal,
dynamic data from a hygrometer would remain helpful

True. I haven't really looked that much into it.

Thankfully the bathroom at home is fully tiled with only the ceiling being painted. The window (frame etc) is UPVC as well so, although moisture occurs, nothing can "soak" it in. It also has a hygrometer activated extraction fan (can be switched on manually as well) and window which is opened when using shower/bath.

I could never have a house with no window in the bathroom....
 
If you don't have the heating up high enough to evaporate condensation, then the solution is counter-intuitive. You have to let more cold air in and (importantly) out.
The problem is entirely down to warm, condensation laden air has nowhere to go, it has to be allowed to leave the house.
Tis true. The cold air outside, while it may have a high relative humidity, is actually pretty dry once you warm it up to room temperature
 
Just get a dehumidifier. I set ours to 55% and our house is about 20c the whole time give or take. Makes everything much more comfortable, prevents mould, allows us to dry washing indoors etc. Worth every penny. Ours uses about 180 watts, so costs about a quid per day, but once the humidity level drops it will turn itself on and off when needed. Might take a few days to get the initial level down.
 
I used a heater-type dehumidifier in very poorly insulated flat and worked well, just expensive to run, even back 10 years ago. We did have a fully internal bathroom, crappy electric radiators, and had to dry laundry indoors, so we were screwed no matter what.

Even now, I have all the window vents open in our house, and I swear it also causes issues, as the freezing cold air coming in makes the windows and sills colder, so even more condensation happens.

One of these days I will get a PIV system installed, or a proper MVHR if I really come in to some cash.
 
Back
Top Bottom