Are *ALL* chainsaws dangerous?

psd99 said:
Ah pole saw might just be the one then….
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https://www.screwfix.com/p/mac-allister-hkpcs06d05-x-750w-220-240v-electric-20cm-pole-saw/446fg

I bought this one. I'm sure at a cheaper price. It's worked fantastically. I have a long 30m external weatherproof extension reel so I don't care that it's wired as I use that for all my powered outdoor things as it is so i prefer to save money and buy corded which tends to be cheaper and significantly more powerful than cordless variants (bar petrol powered).

You do need chain oil. Which is oil that lubricates the chain. So it eats quite a lot of chain oil as it needs constant lubrication. it does this by itself. It has and oil tank you will up and it should last 20-30 mins before a refill but depends on how hard you are running it i suppose.

it's designed for lopping off high branches but like i said i have actually cut down 7 trees with it, it did take a bit of work but much easier than a hand saw and literally went through branches like a hot knife through butter. it's more than powerful enough for minor domestic use. obviously if you are a lumberjack you would get a proper chainsaw but i'll likely keep on using this as i have 4 more trees to cut down and it's still going strong.
 
Mercenary Keyboard Warrior said:
The dangers are various

1) jamming, which is the one even pros fear, where the weight shifts of the tree onto the blade and stops it, Generally pros wont have this happen as they read the tree but its always possible and when it happens the energy has to go somewhere.
2) not being stable and your weight shifting whist operating the tool, wheres it going to go now?...
3) working at height with all the normal associated difficulties

But mainly the most dangerous tool is the one operating the tool ;)

When you say saw do you mean a bow saw or a normal wood saw. You want a bow saw for that type of work, but points above still apply, they are damn sharp as well to human flesh, but they wont remove a limb/head with misuse
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Nice way to write.

I like how you structured that and your other posts

you surely are an asset in your chosen profession. Your employers should be proud if you got em lol
 
Psycho Sonny said:
https://www.screwfix.com/p/mac-allister-hkpcs06d05-x-750w-220-240v-electric-20cm-pole-saw/446fg

I bought this one. I'm sure at a cheaper price. It's worked fantastically. I have a long 30m external weatherproof extension reel so I don't care that it's wired as I use that for all my powered outdoor things as it is so i prefer to save money and buy corded which tends to be cheaper and significantly more powerful than cordless variants (bar petrol powered).

You do need chain oil. Which is oil that lubricates the chain. So it eats quite a lot of chain oil as it needs constant lubrication. it does this by itself. It has and oil tank you will up and it should last 20-30 mins before a refill but depends on how hard you are running it i suppose.

it's designed for lopping off high branches but like i said i have actually cut down 7 trees with it, it did take a bit of work but much easier than a hand saw and literally went through branches like a hot knife through butter. it's more than powerful enough for minor domestic use. obviously if you are a lumberjack you would get a proper chainsaw but i'll likely keep on using this as i have 4 more trees to cut down and it's still going strong.
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Thanks great post for a physco
 
~Divine~Wind~ said:
slip with it and head towards your leg... yes very!
Kevlar all the way AFAIK with chainsaws

What about a smaller polesaw?
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Polesaw would be my solution. Remove weight side branches then hand saw the trunk.

My sister’s ex, a regular/experienced chainsaw user, took the tip of his finger off with one. Simply put avoid if your not going to treat them with the respect they deserve.
 
the aforementioned pole saw is nonetheless 4.7KG ... so, maybe 4KG you are waving around at 2.7M distance,
over the weight would you have precision to cut cleanly without splintering, or catching the blade -
so how useful is the pole component.
 
jpaul said:
the aforementioned pole saw is nonetheless 4.7KG ... so, maybe 4KG you are waving around at 2.7M distance,
over the weight would you have precision to cut cleanly without splintering, or catching the blade -
so how useful is the pole component.
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Well, the pole is adjustable. Not everything has to be cut at 2.7m :p

I have the MacAllister as well. can't grumble for the cost.
 
I'm keeping me eyes out but Im annoyed as I know I'll use it onve haha.
I currently have a pole hedge trimmer thing for the large holly tree, ladder + that and I can do the tree wihtout problem.

Theres one branch of the neighbours tree about a foot too high despite midget me standing precariously at the top of me ladder hahha
 
Psycho Sonny said:
https://www.screwfix.com/p/mac-allister-hkpcs06d05-x-750w-220-240v-electric-20cm-pole-saw/446fg

I bought this one. I'm sure at a cheaper price. It's worked fantastically. I have a long 30m external weatherproof extension reel so I don't care that it's wired as I use that for all my powered outdoor things as it is so i prefer to save money and buy corded which tends to be cheaper and significantly more powerful than cordless variants (bar petrol powered).

You do need chain oil. Which is oil that lubricates the chain. So it eats quite a lot of chain oil as it needs constant lubrication. it does this by itself. It has and oil tank you will up and it should last 20-30 mins before a refill but depends on how hard you are running it i suppose.

it's designed for lopping off high branches but like i said i have actually cut down 7 trees with it, it did take a bit of work but much easier than a hand saw and literally went through branches like a hot knife through butter. it's more than powerful enough for minor domestic use. obviously if you are a lumberjack you would get a proper chainsaw but i'll likely keep on using this as i have 4 more trees to cut down and it's still going strong.
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I have the same pole saw and this post is spot on.

Only points I can add are that its a lot easier to use at length when you get the balance strap right and bear in mind it doesn't have an auto-stop, so the chain will keep moving for a short while when you release the 'on' button. Pro chainsaws usually have an instant stop of the chain when you release the button. Make sure to buy chainsaw oil with it and check the level every time you use it.
 
jpaul said:
the aforementioned pole saw is nonetheless 4.7KG ... so, maybe 4KG you are waving around at 2.7M distance,
over the weight would you have precision to cut cleanly without splintering, or catching the blade -
so how useful is the pole component.
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All the weight isn't at the end but obviously a lot is, it does come with a strap and you hold it with 2 hands spread apart and you get a really good grip it's perfectly usable at full length. Obviously treat it with the respect it deserves if you are going to be swinging it around like a light sabre then sure you will have issues.

I have had zero issues using it but if you aren't that tall or not that strong you may struggle. As the smaller you are obviously the longer you will need to extend it and the weaker you are the less of a strong hold you will have on it. For domestic use it's perfectly fine. I've even lent it to my father in law who is retired and pension age. He used it fine with zero issues. He was just cutting branches though not trunks.
 
norm said:
To be honest I think a chainsaw is only as dangerous as the person using it.
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I tend to disagree. All power tools are dangerous, agreed. But some are more dangerous than others, or more importantly - their intended use and, as a result design, limits the safety features and mitigation of risk against injury or death.

The chainsaw, by design, has to have a largely (entirely) open cutting element. If it didn't it just wouldn't be fit for purpose or as effective.
These lack of guards etc pose additional risk and limit protection against accidental or negligent injury.

I personally think that one of the most dangerous tools is a table saw. So many things can go wrong, they go worse when riving knives, Blade guards and other safety measures are removed. Some cuts require their removal however. More risk though.

Whilst I agree lack of training, respect or hasty/negligence use of tools is more of an issue some tools are simply more risky.

You'd have to be doing something pretty creative to cause serious injury with a lawnmower for example. IE - Using it well outside of its normal operation. With a chainsaw however you could be Safety Sam with all the PPE and precautions and STILL cause serious injury.

Plus.....you could have the chainsaw all worked out but STILL be at risk of falls and/or the material you are cutting injuring you! Close colleague with time served experience in felling received a significant life changing, paralysing injury from chainsaw use.
 
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I just bought a chainsaw for a big branch that needed cutting up.

Yes it's dangerous. But it's also awesome!
The battery one I bought was pretty impressive!
 
NoobCannon said:
a spoon is dangerous if your dumb enough to stick it in a toaster.
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A bit of a myth that, when I used to test toasters at Russell Hobbs one of our tests was placing a metal rod on the element to both test the heat and earth.
There should be no bare wires in a toaster so you won't have a problem.
The same test was done on electric cookers where again you place the same metal rod onto their elements testing the same thing.
If you were lazy you just put your hand on it until you had to remove it 2 seconds later.
 
SexyGreyFox said:
A bit of a myth that, when I used to test toasters at Russell Hobbs one of our tests was placing a metal rod on the element to both test the heat and earth.
There should be no bare wires in a toaster so you won't have a problem.
The same test was done on electric cookers where again you place the same metal rod onto their elements testing the same thing.
If you were lazy you just put your hand on it until you had to remove it 2 seconds later.
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Can confirm I killed an element in a toaster after hitting it with a fork or knife.

Wife wasn't too happy it was a £60 toaster. I did tell her it was over priced tat.

Same with her fancy kettle.

I now just buy cheapest option in B&M or Argos in the colour she wants and they are usually bulletproof too. I killed hers within a few weeks of using it and b&m one has been 5+ years now and no issues. I used knives in it earlier to scoop out floppy caramel waffles
 
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