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Are these components compatible?

jasonorme666

jasonorme666

jasonorme666

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Joined
18 Jan 2008
Posts
55
Hello,

I'm planning on buying a few things but unsure of on their compatibility as it is my first time purchasing a new chip.

Gigabyte PA65-UD3 Intel PA65 Chipset (Socket 1155) DDR3 Motherboard

Intel Core i5-2500 3.30GHz (Sandybridge) Socket LGA1155 Processor

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=MB-335-GI&groupid=701&catid=5&subcat=1965

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CP-361-IN

Anyone know the measurements for the motherboard as I hope to fit it into this case.
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CA-161-AN

Hope you guys can help.

Kind regards
- Jason
 
Yes they are compatible, and that case will take an ATX mobo so it will fit. I do strongly suggest you get the 2500k i5 instead though, the 2500 does not overclock.

I'd also recommend this motherboard which will allow you to overclock the 2500k nicely.
 
That will all fit - no problems.

Although i woukd swap the 2500 for 2500K as it's unlocked (in otherwords you will be able to overlcock it)

EDIT: Beaten to it.
 
the H61 mobos are not suited to overclocking. Just making that clear to the OP in case he still went for his original choice with a 2500K.

Also, I researched loads before recently upgrading and went Z68 instead of P67. Couple of decent advantages with the new chipset.
 
durbs said:
the H61 mobos are not suited to overclocking. Just making that clear to the OP in case he went for his original choice with a 2500K.
Click to expand...

that's what I meant in my previous post, although after re-reading it, it's not clear that I meant that at all :p
 
Just to make it absolutely clear to the OP the motherboard you have chosen can't be used to overclock a 2500K processor.

You need a P67 or Z68 chipset motherboard from here or here.

If you need help choosing one then post back.
 
As you're consdiering overclocking (which is very simple process with a SB) - ideally you would use a third party cooler.

Do you have one already you can use, if not what would your budget be?
 
jasonorme666 said:
I'm uncertain what a good price to pay for a decent one is.
Click to expand...

If you're after a middle of the road clock - 4.3 to 4.6Ghz then you only need to spend upto £30 - using air.

I would normally recommend the Gelid Tranquillo @ £25 but OcUk haven;t got them in stock - so you may need to google.

Also, the Akasa Freedom Tower is worth a look @ £30.

If you wanted to spend less then then the Cooler Master Hyper 212 is a great bang for buck.

If you want relative silence and exceptional cooling then the Silver Arrow @ £50 is excellent (2 week lead time.)

Which ever cooler you do decide on if you haven't got the memory yet - i recommned the XMS3 12800 sets - it's low profile, great value and will usually run at 1.5v which is a bonus when clocking 2500k.
 
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jasonorme666 said:
Just wondering, a lot of tutorials seem to use a thermal compound/paste when installing a chip and fitting the heat sink.

Would I need to do this?
Click to expand...

If it's not pre-applied to the HS already yes (always).

What HS have you got/getting as there are different methods of application depending on thermal paste and if you have exposed heatpipes etc...
 
The freedom tower has exposed heatpipes at the base so you have to prep/tint the base of HS to fill the voids - and then apply the blob method.

I've written a detailed description for someoneelse in a prevous thread - i'll search it out and post it up for you...
 
Here you go: (i copied and pasted a reply i did in another post to save retyping)

For flat surfaced HS i use a rice size blob or thin line down the middle of the CPU.

For exposed heatpipes on the base, susch as the Freedom Tower, i do the below:

If you have exposed heatpipes (ridged surface) you could try tinting the surface of the heatsink first to fill in the voids made by the exposed pipes on the base (artic silver 5 advises this but i've used this method with other gunk if i felt the heatsink required it.). You're basically filling the gaps, created by the exposed pipes, but scrape of all the excess so the base of the heatsink only has a very slight tint of gunk (credit card is great for this). The theory is that it fills, the sometimes pretty large, gaps that exposed heatpipes can cause on the base of the heatsink.

After tiniting the heatink you then only need to apply a single line (less than a mm thick) down the middle of the core (vertically) - but don't go from edge to edge leave a 5mm gap at each end. (you can use the rice blob method here too - depends on results)

This method should ensure that the pipe gaps don't suck up all of the gunk on the cpu and allow it to spread as it would on a shiny flat heatsink base.

I will stress that you only need to use this method on exposed heatpipe heatsinks (and even then not all of the time) - there is no need to use this method with perfectly flat based heatsinks.

Remember you'll need to buy some gunk (thermal paste) if you're getting the Freedom Tower.

If you're worried about doing the above the Gelid Tranquillo (great cooler) and the Cooler Master Hyper 212 comes with pre-applied paste and has a smooth surface - but you would still need spare gunk incase you need to remove the HS at later date or make a hash of the install.
 
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