Are these spikes normal?

Rowan88 · 16 Jun 2018 at 22:28

Hi,

I was just wondering if this was normal or if my HDD is failing.

The first screenshot is me copying a file from my S:\ to G:\ drive, both are HDD's
The second screenshot is me installing a game from my G:\

The write speeds jump from 25-150 but looking at the graph I wasn't sure if it spiking was normal.

Thanks

spolsh · 17 Jun 2018 at 19:03

It's either normal, or every HDD I've had has had a fault !

Rowan88 · 17 Jun 2018 at 21:01

Haha cheers.

I noticed when I open the drives the icons next to the file names take a while to load, is there something I need to change to fix that or is it normal too?

Mik3 · 17 Jun 2018 at 21:02

Since the spikes form a repetitive pattern I would imagine its the cache filling up. Run some benchmarks and check the smart readout

Danny75 · 18 Jun 2018 at 04:12

Does everything look normal in Disk Management? i.e. There's no non-OS drive marked "Active" or "Boot" for example?

Rowan88 · 18 Jun 2018 at 18:15

?

Danny75 · 18 Jun 2018 at 18:51

The S: drive is marked Active instead of the C: drive. Did you install Windows with all the drives connected, instead of just the C: drive? As that might explain it, and be the cause of the issues you've described in the other thread.

Rowan88 · 18 Jun 2018 at 20:10

All my drives where connected during install yes..

I have went into CMD and marked S:\ as inactive. Now my two storage drives read "Healthy Primary Partition".

Does that mean its fixed or should I reinstall windows without the other two drives connected?

Danny75 · 18 Jun 2018 at 20:31

It can be a bit tricky from what I recall (it happened to me once). The first thing I'd do next is shut down (and drain power) > unplug all drives except OS drive > start up again. See if it creates the appropriate file on the OS drive automatically. That'd save you some trouble if it works.

Rowan88 · 18 Jun 2018 at 20:36

I had only installed a few games on the PC and I have the latest windows on a USB drive so hardly any updates.

If I start from scratch do I need to do anything to the drives, or do I just only connect the SSD, format, delete, install?

Then once it boots back in fine I can shutdown and connect my GAMES and STORAGE drive back in without doing anything else?

When you say "drain the pc", is that just turn off PC, remove cables from the back, hold power button in for 30secs, plug back in and power on?

Danny75 · 18 Jun 2018 at 20:43

Rowan88 said:
If I start from scratch do I need to do anything to the drives, or do I just only connect the SSD, format, delete, install?

Just that.

Rowan88 said:
Then once it boots back in fine I can shutdown and connect my GAMES and STORAGE drive back in without doing anything else?

Yes, should work like that.

Danny75 · 18 Jun 2018 at 20:46

Rowan88 said:
When you say "drain the pc", is that just turn off PC, remove cables from the back, hold power button in for 30secs, plug back in and power on?

Yes. As long as the PSU is switched off no cables ought to need removing, but you can do that anyway, plus the rest you mentioned.

Good luck.

Rowan88 · 18 Jun 2018 at 21:10

Ok I followed all the steps and my disk management looks like this.

Is that it correct?

Danny75 · 18 Jun 2018 at 21:24

The two storage drives look as they should now. It is strange that Disk 0 doesn't say Active anywhere, though. Maybe someone else can advise whether that is fine.

Rowan88 · 18 Jun 2018 at 21:39

Something still isnt right ..

Opening WinRAR it freezes for about 5-10secs then shows the contents..

Opening random folders on windows it takes about the same time for the icon images to show. .

Starting to think its the SSD

Danny75 · 18 Jun 2018 at 22:31

It's unknown territory for me I'm afraid - not having any partition as Active (or rather not showing up as Active). Hope someone else has an idea.

I do wonder about that "OEM Partition". Is that usual for non-OEM system builds?

This is how it looks on mine:

Disk 0 System Reserved partition marked Active, along with C: and Unallocated (some overprovisioning).

Rowan88 · 19 Jun 2018 at 06:31

The .ISO I used was the one you download from the Windows 10 website.

If its any additional info, not that you probably need but the OS is on a SSD and the other two drives are HDD.

The WinRAR issue kinda started me thinking something wasn't behaving right, and then more stuff like the icons taking a while to load, sometimes slow freezes or glitches then the benchmark issues made me think that there was something going on...