Astra GSI
- Thread starter craig_t
- Start date
I've Owned the SRI-T (Pre-release for the GSI) for 2 and half years now. I've had 2 of these cars including the one I have now.
Common issues are Stem seals and turbo seals/turbos failing. Often due to not being looked after or using the wrong oil grades. You can get them to 300bhp quite easily as well they can be tuned to this on standard engine/block. Ideally anything above requires a Forge Build if you want it reliable and not running on borrowed time.
Fuel wise is all depending on how you drive it really. Average you'll be looking 250-300 miles to a tank driving round town.
Mines over 400BHP and it's pretty good on fuel if i'm on a run. Mines a weekend car though so fuel doesn't matter too much for me.
If you're looking at Tuning one if you buy one don't use Generic Tuners as another issue is rods being thrown through the block and pistons cracking the ring lands or melting due to generic files. Custom tune is the best for these engines. RND Motorsport is who does my tuning for me and is very well known in the Vauxhall Scene so just some extra info for you there bud.
Common issues are Stem seals and turbo seals/turbos failing. Often due to not being looked after or using the wrong oil grades. You can get them to 300bhp quite easily as well they can be tuned to this on standard engine/block. Ideally anything above requires a Forge Build if you want it reliable and not running on borrowed time.
Fuel wise is all depending on how you drive it really. Average you'll be looking 250-300 miles to a tank driving round town.
Mines over 400BHP and it's pretty good on fuel if i'm on a run. Mines a weekend car though so fuel doesn't matter too much for me.
If you're looking at Tuning one if you buy one don't use Generic Tuners as another issue is rods being thrown through the block and pistons cracking the ring lands or melting due to generic files. Custom tune is the best for these engines. RND Motorsport is who does my tuning for me and is very well known in the Vauxhall Scene so just some extra info for you there bud.
Be careful when buying one as if you don't keep your wits about you you could end up buying a Vauxhall.
I'm going to de badge it, so I can't be reminded it's a vauxhall
I've Owned the SRI-T (Pre-release for the GSI) for 2 and half years now. I've had 2 of these cars including the one I have now.
Common issues are Stem seals and turbo seals/turbos failing. Often due to not being looked after or using the wrong oil grades. You can get them to 300bhp quite easily as well they can be tuned to this on standard engine/block. Ideally anything above requires a Forge Build if you want it reliable and not running on borrowed time.
Fuel wise is all depending on how you drive it really. Average you'll be looking 250-300 miles to a tank driving round town.
Mines over 400BHP and it's pretty good on fuel if i'm on a run. Mines a weekend car though so fuel doesn't matter too much for me.
If you're looking at Tuning one if you buy one don't use Generic Tuners as another issue is rods being thrown through the block and pistons cracking the ring lands or melting due to generic files. Custom tune is the best for these engines. RND Motorsport is who does my tuning for me and is very well known in the Vauxhall Scene so just some extra info for you there bud.
Thanks - Fuel isn't massively an issue with me either I was just curious on what they were like. That doesn't seem too bad though to be honest. I'll try and find one that looks as if it has been looked after well and by someone who knows what they're talking about.
Interested to see yours at 400BHP too!
Yep - The power they have (none standard) but as above they can be got to 300 pretty easy, I love the noise of them too.
Maybe not that quick as standard but at an easily achievable 250-300bhp it's quite a quick car..
Coming across a good one will be a hard task. There aren't many GSI/SRI-T's left out there now really. There's 4-5 Breakers in the West Midlands/South of England and 3-4 in the North parts of England so quite a lot of places breaking them as there is good money in the parts from them.
Standard yes they are pretty slow. As said 300bhp is easily achievable. (FMIC Intercooler, Full exhaust system, Cross over delete and filter, solid boost pipes and top hat, VXR injectors, turbo and AFM and you're ready for Stage 3.5 Tune usually 300bhp area depending on the health of the engine really.
You could add an inlet cam/set of cams also an inlet manifold you'll be looking at 310-320bhp add a decent K06 turbo be 330+ standard block you're running on borrowed time over 300bhp imo
Standard yes they are pretty slow. As said 300bhp is easily achievable. (FMIC Intercooler, Full exhaust system, Cross over delete and filter, solid boost pipes and top hat, VXR injectors, turbo and AFM and you're ready for Stage 3.5 Tune usually 300bhp area depending on the health of the engine really.
You could add an inlet cam/set of cams also an inlet manifold you'll be looking at 310-320bhp add a decent K06 turbo be 330+ standard block you're running on borrowed time over 300bhp imo
300-310bhp you should be fine on a decent tune bud. A few have pushed to 330bhp but with ARP Rod bolts added. It's luck really as these cars are pretty old now.
Forged Pistons & Steel Rods you'll be looking at £790 including Delivery. Then you need:
ACL Main & Big End Bearings: £100
LEH Oil Pump: £185
Top Bottom end gasket kit: £130
Balance Shaft Delete Kit: £160
Main end bolts: £25
Cambelt kit & Water Pump: £120
Titanium Retainers and Piper Single Valve Springs: £295
Block Machine work(Honing/Oversizing if needed)/Head Work:
Off the top of my head I think that's it for a decent solid engine build. Mines built to a similar spec & I usually build engines to this spec if i'm ever asked to build one. Fairly easy building a Z20 Engine. You'll just need to add the cost of someone building the engine for you to the above prices if you don't feel confident doing it yourself.
Forged Pistons & Steel Rods you'll be looking at £790 including Delivery. Then you need:
ACL Main & Big End Bearings: £100
LEH Oil Pump: £185
Top Bottom end gasket kit: £130
Balance Shaft Delete Kit: £160
Main end bolts: £25
Cambelt kit & Water Pump: £120
Titanium Retainers and Piper Single Valve Springs: £295
Block Machine work(Honing/Oversizing if needed)/Head Work:
Off the top of my head I think that's it for a decent solid engine build. Mines built to a similar spec & I usually build engines to this spec if i'm ever asked to build one. Fairly easy building a Z20 Engine. You'll just need to add the cost of someone building the engine for you to the above prices if you don't feel confident doing it yourself.
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300-310bhp you should be fine on a decent tune bud. A few have pushed to 330bhp but with ARP Rod bolts added. It's luck really as these cars are pretty old now.
Forged Pistons & Steel Rods you'll be looking at £790 including Delivery. Then you need:
ACL Main & Big End Bearings: £100
LEH Oil Pump: £185
Top Bottom end gasket kit: £130
Balance Shaft Delete Kit: £160
Main end bolts: £25
Cambelt kit & Water Pump: £120
Titanium Retainers and Piper Single Valve Springs: £295
Block Machine work(Honing/Oversizing if needed)/Head Work:
Off the top of my head I think that's it for a decent solid engine build. Mines built to a similar spec & I usually build engines to this spec if i'm ever asked to build one. Fairly easy building a Z20 Engine. You'll just need to add the cost of someone building the engine for you to the above prices if you don't feel confident doing it yourself.
I should be ok building it, have built a few engines before although not forged, just standard replacement parts. I can hone, just not oversize.
Doesn't seem too bad a price for a forged spec, but think initially I will just look at getting close to 300 at first and if it blows up then go for the forged route and more power, to spread the cost a bit..