Astrophotography EOS 60Da
- Thread starter Cosimo
- Start date
The inspiration of this thread took me outside with my 70-300mm lense to try and get a picture. Didn't get a very big or clear oneoh well
Can barely make out the cheese
(edit: The grin is for the cheese comment, I'm not mocking you! Just thought I'd better point that out, after re-reading this!)You can pick up a Kenko 1.4 extender for around £120. They do tend to soften the image a bit, but you can still get reasonable results after a tinker in Lightroom. I've been mulling over getting a Canon extender to get better results.
here some more work done on the full moon taken with the 1.4x. i've stich together coupe of the shot and the hyper saturated it abit to add colour. now this is my first time at stiching and hyper saturation.
the teleconvertor i used was the Kenko 1.4x DGX Pro 300. now their about four different version that kenko do, their DGX Pro 300 series is the better product.
the teleconvertor i used was the Kenko 1.4x DGX Pro 300. now their about four different version that kenko do, their DGX Pro 300 series is the better product.
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I had a very teeny dabble with proper astro-photography the other day. Well, I saw it all happen with a proper telescope setup etc. It is a different ballgame entirely
It is indeed a completely different activity
The problem I see with the majority of moon shots is focus. pecnarf's shot is a good example of correct focus.
Here's a crop of a native resolution shot at infinite focus for stars but at the moon:
Focal length 1340mm, 102mm apperature, ~3 second exposure. Nice but blurred - focus and a low position in the atmosphere, plus the scope is on the dawes limit at 0.83arcsec/pixel) will cause this.
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trick to focusing i found and can be used in other aspects of photography is to focus on the target with the optical first that use the 5x,10x digital zoom to get the focus even sharper. you be surprise how often this simple trick has achieve amazing results. but it also help having a telescope that has two level of focusing control on it. first one being standard focusing control and second one being fine focusing control. other than focusing correctly the only other thing to do is to shoot video of the moon that stack it.
as for the canon eos 60da. i too want to see some photo it has taken. as from what i read about this camera aside from being a great improvement over the older canon eos 20da camera. also has fix some of the problems people saw with that camera namely to do with the internal heat off the lcd screen becasue as now it is attach to the camera via a flip screen housing. but i won't be getting one any time soon as rrp for the body only is price at £1,174.99. so im more that happy staying with my 550d if need i can alway borrow my dad 600d for the flip screen when going to used my telescope at an angle where it will be hard to look throught either the viewfinder or the lcd screen on the 550d.
as for the canon eos 60da. i too want to see some photo it has taken. as from what i read about this camera aside from being a great improvement over the older canon eos 20da camera. also has fix some of the problems people saw with that camera namely to do with the internal heat off the lcd screen becasue as now it is attach to the camera via a flip screen housing. but i won't be getting one any time soon as rrp for the body only is price at £1,174.99. so im more that happy staying with my 550d if need i can alway borrow my dad 600d for the flip screen when going to used my telescope at an angle where it will be hard to look throught either the viewfinder or the lcd screen on the 550d.
Yup, my olde Pentax 105 SDP has a single speed focuser.. so I'm seriously considering adding a Borg helical focuser.
For DSOs it's a bit easier using a focus mask or an application to make the point spread function (i.e. the star) as crisp as possible.
It looks like the 60da is just so you don't have to mod the IR cut. The main heat source in a DSLR is the amp rather than the screen.
For DSOs it's a bit easier using a focus mask or an application to make the point spread function (i.e. the star) as crisp as possible.
It looks like the 60da is just so you don't have to mod the IR cut. The main heat source in a DSLR is the amp rather than the screen.
