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You can go with the OCZ I guess, it does not have bad opinions.

But I don't give you my word on this :-).
The ones I can recommend mostly are Seasonic/Tagan/Thermaltake/Be Quiet.

If you get any of those, I swear that they will be fine.
Anything else is at your own risk ; ).9
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You have to keep in mind that this is probably long term investment ( I had one Tagan for 4years and then sold it about year ago, it's probably still working fine ) and if you ask me, 50 or 65GBP is not much of a difference when you look at how long you're going to use it.

It's not something that you change every month or two.
 
I take into consideration your helpful tips about it's a investment which lasts for around 3+ Years.
I heard that Corsair & PC Power Cooling are really good for PSU and vey good for the money, how about this one?

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CA-006-CS&tool=3
OR
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CA-002-PP

(Has To Power, Think 450W Would Be Enough?)
XFX ATI Radeon HD 4850 "XXX Edition" 512MB GDDR3 TV-Out/Dual DVI/HDMI
AMD Athlon 64 X2 Dual Core 7850+ Black Edition 2.80GHz (Socket AM2+) -
Kingston HyperX 4GB (2x2GB) DDR2 8500C5 1066MHz Dual Channel
Gigabyte GA-M61PME-S2P nForce 430 (Socket AM2/AM2+) PCI-Express DDR2 (Maybe Upgrading to http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=MB-336-AS)
Arctic Cooling Freezer 64 Pro PWM CPU Cooler (Socket 754/939/940/AM2)
Seagate ST3200822A-RK 200 GB (IDE)
X1 CD/DVD Drive (IDE)
X1 120mm System Fan.
 
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I might go ahead and buy http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CA-037-OC Seems a pretty low priced but highly perofrmable PSU, your thoughts?

450 of quality PSU will be plenty for this.

OCZ just started making PSUs not long ago, maybe 1,5 or something.
If you want to save cash go for the OCZ then I guess, I can't come up with anything better at this range as myself I've been usually be buying the ones in 80-100 range : ).

Corsairs been good value for money before their prices gone up by 50%.
I wouldn't say they're worth it anymore, and they're not as great as some people make it. But that's just my opinion : ).

I would pick seasonic/tagan/thermaltake over corsair anytime, especially the last one but they don't sell em here anymore.
 
450 of quality PSU will be plenty for this.

OCZ just started making PSUs not long ago, maybe 1,5 or something.
If you want to save cash go for the OCZ then I guess, I can't come up with anything better at this range as myself I've been usually be buying the ones in 80-100 range : ).

Corsairs been good value for money before their prices gone up by 50%.
I wouldn't say they're worth it anymore, and they're not as great as some people make it. But that's just my opinion : ).

I would pick seasonic/tagan/thermaltake over corsair anytime, especially the last one but they don't sell em here anymore.

I've just seen this PSU on "This Week Only Deal" which i thought was a realy mega bargain considering its modular and very powerful, this could last my upto 3-4years it seems. (Has 3-year power swap warranty also)
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CA-032-OC
 
I've just seen this PSU on "This Week Only Deal" which i thought was a realy mega bargain considering its modular and very powerful, this could last my upto 3-4years it seems.
Appreciate that your original supply could have always been defective - only finally became obvious. You could have seen it defective when first bought had you used the meter. Fixed it when still under warranty.

Supplies last ten plus years. Why are you so anxious to have failures in three?

Had you posted meter numbers, well, inaccurate numbers suggested facts that nobody else noticed. But then the discussion turned to shotgunning rather than identifying and curing problems.

Numbers suggested some other or additional problems. Until you had numbers from something more accurate - ie the meter - then I say nothing more. Your replies are only as good as the facts and numbers provided. I am still waiting for something that has meat. Additional facts provided only if you provide useful numbers.

You provided no facts. Therefore others only recommend shotgunning.

To make a decision based on knowledge, post voltage numbers. To make a decision based in wild speculation, replace a supply. Or is the problem in other components of that power supply system?

Meter is to find the defect AND then to confirm a replacement is good. Instead, you are doing exactly what you said you did not want to do - keep buying parts to replace perfectly good components - shotgunning.
 
Meter is to find the defect AND then to confirm a replacement is good. Instead, you are doing exactly what you said you did not want to do - keep buying parts to replace perfectly good components - shotgunning.

The PSU has 17 amps on the 12v line. If you know as much about PSUs as you seem to, then surely you know that a '500W' PSU with only 200W on the 12v isn't really a good component? The HD4850 has a TDP of about 110W - add in the CPU and the PSU is already reaching its limit.

Sammanu - fairly sure the problem will be the PSU, but even if it isn't, I wouldn't send it back. Running a gaming system off a cheap generic PSU is a bad idea. You wouldn't buy RAM that cost a quarter of the price of a respected brand - don't skimp on the PSU either. Most important component in the system :)
 
The PSU has 17 amps on the 12v line. If you know as much about PSUs as you seem to, then surely you know that a '500W' PSU with only 200W on the 12v isn't really a good component? The HD4850 has a TDP of about 110W - add in the CPU and the PSU is already reaching its limit.

Sammanu - fairly sure the problem will be the PSU, but even if it isn't, I wouldn't send it back. Running a gaming system off a cheap generic PSU is a bad idea. You wouldn't buy RAM that cost a quarter of the price of a respected brand - don't skimp on the PSU either. Most important component in the system :)

+1

People underestimate how important a proper PSU is.
Not only you have a piece of mind that everything will be working properly but also you know that in case it dies, it wont take all your components together with it.

On top of that it will be more efficient, saving you few quid on electricity bills.

Either way faulty or not faulty - it screams for replacing ! : )
 
The PSU has 17 amps on the 12v line. If you know as much about PSUs as you seem to, then surely you know that a '500W' PSU with only 200W on the 12v isn't really a good component? The HD4850 has a TDP of about 110W - add in the CPU and the PSU is already reaching its limit.

Sammanu - fairly sure the problem will be the PSU, but even if it isn't, I wouldn't send it back. Running a gaming system off a cheap generic PSU is a bad idea. You wouldn't buy RAM that cost a quarter of the price of a respected brand - don't skimp on the PSU either. Most important component in the system :)

Thanks man, i ignored the post before yours anyways. He obviously didnt read the whole conversation. Thanks again Phoenix!
 
TBH any of those PSU's would be better than that peice of crap you have now.
Cheep nasty PSUs are known to kill components and with that 5v rail over volting like it is id be pretty scared for your system.
Id use a volt meter to double check, but those readings are probbly about right shockingly enougth.

Although heres an example of why to use a meter :rolleyes:
2im5naa.jpg


Notice my 12v rail, lol
 
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TBH any of those PSU's would be better than that peice of crap you have now.
Cheep nasty PSUs are known to kill components and with that 5v rail over volting like it is id be pretty scared for your system.
Id use a volt meter to double check, but those readings are probbly about right shockingly enougth.

Although heres an example of why to use a meter :rolleyes:
2im5naa.jpg


Notice my 12v rail, lol

Your 12v rail !??!

Bloody hell... look at all of them... so much mess !!
 
Thanks man, i ignored the post before yours anyways.
I did and did not bother to add some facts he forget to include.

Always amazes me is how many fear to learn. How many will just replace parts on speculation.

What should have been obvious from those monitor snap-shots: defects exist - as others have shown. And still you would rather *know using speculation* rather than learn?

Will a new supply be sufficient? Same procedure to identify the defective supply is also how to know a replacement is good. Normal is for a defective supply to boot a computer. And then to cause other problems often blamed on later on heat, software, or other assumptions. Using the meter is clearly the best first step to a solution.

How do you know the power supply contoller is good? You don't. More speculation. Some horses just will not drink.
 
Using a meter could help prove the weakness, but you don't need one to know that it's fundamentally a rubbish PSU. It can only deliver 40% of its rated output on the 12v line. That's not speculation. It's a sure sign that the PSU isn't built to handle a modern gaming rig, which will draw the vast majority of its power from the 12v. Why do you reckon that the 520w Corsair, for example, can supply 480w (92%) of its power on the 12v?
 
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