Audio Help!

Soldato
Joined
7 Nov 2002
Posts
12,569
Location
Snorbans, UK
I'm currently experiencing a problem with the audio in my car. I have an amp and sub fitted, however the sub is disconnected, the amp is running just the 2 front speakers.

Basically, whenever I turn the headunit up too much, the music cuts, then comes back for a second, then cuts (and repeat)

I'm tried turning down the input sensitivity on the amplifier, to no avail :(

Any ideas?

Thanks :)
 
Jonny ///M said:
Where have you grounded your amp to? Sounds as if it has a bad ground so is cutting on and off.

The amp is grounded to a bolt in the boot, perfectly secure. I'll check the connections tomorrow. Its strange that it only happens when I turn the volume up though?

digitalwolf - a bigger capacitor? wha?
 
I'm not sure what they are. They are big cylinder like objects with digital displays on that most boy racers have on their systems (high watt systems) to regulate the power.

Pretty sure they are capacitors, don't count me on it though.
 
well the headunit is only supplying about 50w to the amp, and the amp is only about 400w maximum, so I don't think its big power!
 
Capacitors buffer the power - they store energy so that when you get deep bass from a sub for example, it draws more current hence the cap is needed to provide the extra power.

IMO its not really necessary in all but the most high powered systems. If used for the wrong reasons it more often than not causes more problems that it's worth (more strain on battery and alternator).

Sounds like a grounding issue to me, check and double check power connectors and that you don't have a short between wires at terminals anywhere. Does the amplifier have a warning/diagonistic light on it?
 
digitalwolf said:
What is on the end of the amp? A sub?

It goes:

HU ---> Amp ---> Sub
---> Front speakers

The sub is currently disconnected, so the amp is purely driving the front speakers.
 
Six6siX said:
Capacitors buffer the power - they store energy so that when you get deep bass from a sub for example, it draws more current hence the cap is needed to provide the extra power.

IMO its not really necessary in all but the most high powered systems. If used for the wrong reasons it more often than not causes more problems that it's worth (more strain on battery and alternator).

Sounds like a grounding issue to me, check and double check power connectors and that you don't have a short between wires at terminals anywhere. Does the amplifier have a warning/diagonistic light on it?

I had no idea westy was using a lowish powered system. I know my mate running 2 x 750w subs had this problem and the capacitor cured them.

My sub drops out when my HU is turned up and the amp is drawing too much power. It's not an ground/earth issue, it's that the altenator cannot supply enough current to the amp and the rest of the car electrics at the same time so it drops out.
 
digitalwolf said:
I had no idea westy was using a lowish powered system. I know my mate running 2 x 750w subs had this problem and the capacitor cured them.

Yup thats when it would be a good idea: the amp needs the power which it can't get without using the capacitor store. I just meant that they have their uses.

digitalwolf said:
My sub drops out when my HU is turned up and the amp is drawing too much power. It's not an ground/earth issue, it's that the altenator cannot supply enough current to the amp and the rest of the car electrics at the same time so it drops out.

Strange, I ran 600W+ systems from a weedy Punto 55 and had none of these issues. What gauge wiring you using? Does the amp go into protection mode or does it just cut out?
 
Six6siX said:
Yup thats when it would be a good idea: the amp needs the power which it can't get without using the capacitor store. I just meant that they have their uses.



Strange, I ran 600W+ systems from a weedy Punto 55 and had none of these issues. What gauge wiring you using? Does the amp go into protection mode or does it just cut out?

The cable is pretty thick stuff. The RMS of the sub is 300w and my amp bridged is pumping out 290w rms.

I have a feeling when the sub puts the amp under some heavy strain it just bails out.

Doesn't go into protect mode no. The HU used to drop out (lights on it etc) before I altered the output power/bass boost on the amp.
 
digitalwolf said:
The cable is pretty thick stuff. The RMS of the sub is 300w and my amp bridged is pumping out 290w rms.

I have a feeling when the sub puts the amp under some heavy strain it just bails out.

lol loud music much :p

digitalwolf said:
Doesn't go into protect mode no. The HU used to drop out (lights on it etc) before I altered the output power/bass boost on the amp.

What is the 300rms rating at 2ohms stable or 4ohms? I came across some issues when connecting a DVC sub in 2ohm mode, for example, across bridged terminals which are expecting a 4ohm load. The lower load resistance would give you higher current draw. I'd expect something like that to trip a protection circuit though...

Upgrade your alternator tbh ;) (jk)
 
Six6siX said:
lol loud music much :p



What is the 300rms rating at 2ohms stable or 4ohms? I came across some issues when connecting a DVC sub in 2ohm mode, for example, across bridged terminals which are expecting a 4ohm load. The lower load resistance would give you higher current draw. I'd expect something like that to trip a protection circuit though...

Upgrade your alternator tbh ;) (jk)

Well I upped the battery to a decent one lol.

I'm pretty sure it's 2 ohms.
 
All sorted now!

The connections for the sub (which I had stupidly left loose..) were shorting - I took them off, now it works fine!

Lucky I didn't fry the amp I suppose!

Thanks :)
 
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