Basic joinery - Linen cupboard

DiG

DiG

DiG

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Joined
16 Mar 2004
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2,257
Hi,
Looking for a bit of advice, I'm rebuilding a linen cupboard that goes in a space at the top of the stairs. I've created a basic plan but I'm not sure on what the best way to fix things together is.

In particular, as the cupboard will be enclosed by walls on two sides (back and right side) and the stair banister on the left side, I'm not sure on the best way of fixing the pieces together? The joins at the back between the green and yellow pieces as I won't be able to put a screw in from behind.

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Any other comments/tips or tricks very welcome, the only other thing I've built out of wood is a log store that ended up nothing like my plans! I'm intending on using 44mmx44mm pieces, do you think these will be sturdy enough?
 
I built a larger airing cupboard for my old house (it's now in my garage) to fit a wide recess in our converted attic. It's probably about 1300mm wide by 900mm deep.

Used 4 uprights of approx 60x40mm, built the shelves with a square frame of approx 40x40mm, and laid slats of approx 15x30mm across those, with gaps of about 60mm.

Used these for attaching the shelves to the uprights;
http://www.diy.com/departments/bq-z...rner-brace-bracket-h15mm-w505mm/240650_BQ.prd

And these for the corners of the shelf frames;
http://www.diy.com/departments/abru-silver-effect-steel-l-bracket-h10mm-w50mm/243271_BQ.prd

It was plenty sturdy enough for an airing cupboard and has held up well to all my camping gear in the garage. Some of the slats have bowed a little from the heavier gear, though.

Slats allows more "airing" than solid shelves, though takes a little longer to build.
 
I would have thought just follow some instructions online on building a stud wall, presumably for the left side. Put the horizontal supports (noggins) in the stud wall at the heights where you want the shelves to go. Once it's plaster boarded out then attach some horizontal battens at the heights you want shelves. In the new stud wall you can do this with wood screws into the noggins. The other two sides, use nylon wall plugs if a solid wall and metal expanding anchor fixings if hollow wall due to noggins not being same height as required.

Surely you're going to want a door on it too?
 
Sorry yes, doors will be going on the front I just didn't put them in the drawings as then you couldn't see the structure.

With the stud wall approach, how would I fix the noggins at the back? I want to try and keep it looking nice though obviously, it will be the back of a cupboard so doesn't have to be perfect!
 
If the wall is already at the back then is it a solid block work wall or it's a stud wall with noggins in already if its wooden stud work. If it's metal stud work then it may not have horizontal noggins. If the wall at the back is block work that's plastered over then you can fix horizontal battening for the shelf supports using normal plastic wall plugs and screws. If the rear wall is a hollow stud partition then I'd use the expanding metal anchors as your shelves are only shelves for linen.
 
Are slatted shelves still needed if all the linen that goes in will be dry already? I've never really understood and much prefer the look/solidity of solid shelves
 
DiG said:
Are slatted shelves still needed if all the linen that goes in will be dry already? I've never really understood and much prefer the look/solidity of solid shelves
Click to expand...

I would never have a linen cupboard with solid shelves even if you think everything is dry out of the dryer it often isn't and a lack of airflow results in musty towels and sheets. I'd also put a vent top and bottom.
 
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