Basic painting question / advice

Push onto the wall about an inch away from the edge so the bristles spread out then slowly move the brush towards to edge with the same amount of force applied.
 
Nice tips here guys thanks. I think I'm just not steady enough so am happy to use tape. It will take longer but I would be happier with the result for me.

So if I do the ceiling, I probably shouldn't then use tape on that for a few days? Chap in previous page suggests 3 weeks?? But the tapes of HER say 24hrs later or when dry.

Thanks
 
Participant said:
Why would you want to thin the coat though (unless must choosing obviously)? Wouldn't that make it less dark than intended?
Click to expand...
Thinning the paint doesn’t change its colour, there’s just more liquid around the pigment. Thinned paint (cream consistency) goes on far quicker and more evenly I find than the stuff straight out of the tin.
 
I've been cutting up some cereal boxes and using a straight edge off that.

Previously used masking tape and well it ripped the skirting paint off when I went to remove it.

I'd say do the edges first of the ceiling then the large area and same again for walls.
 
sja360 said:
I've been cutting up some cereal boxes and using a straight edge off that.

Previously used masking tape and well it ripped the skirting paint off when I went to remove it.

I'd say do the edges first of the ceiling then the large area and same again for walls.
Click to expand...

Normal Masking tape will rip paint off a lot of surfaces, frog tape is much better as it has a very low tack, especially the delicate surfaces version
 
kinger8938 said:
Nice tips here guys thanks. I think I'm just not steady enough so am happy to use tape. It will take longer but I would be happier with the result for me.

So if I do the ceiling, I probably shouldn't then use tape on that for a few days? Chap in previous page suggests 3 weeks?? But the tapes of HER say 24hrs later or when dry.

Thanks
Click to expand...


I would give it 24hrs and assess how well the paint I’m applying the tape to has dried, generally the paint I’ve used is dry in a few hours but I still leave it overnight
 
Adam said:
I disagree with this advice and here's why. Even the low tack masking tape (i.e. https://www.screwfix.com/p/frogtape-painters-delicate-surface-masking-tape-36mm-x-41m/81496) can pull away the paint from the edges of the plaster hasn't been sealed properly (with a properly diluted mist coat after the wall/ceiling has been plastered). By using tape you run the risk of pulling the paint of the ceiling to the bare plaster. This will require you to fill the hole and sand it flat to the existing paint. It's not difficult but it's time and expense. If you use cheap masking tape there is a very high chance the paint will bleed through too.

My tip for you would be to purchase a decent cutting in brush (https://www.toolstation.com/axus-decor-blue-pro-angled-paintbrush/p52842) and get to as close to eye level to the ceiling/coving on a hop up platform or stepladders. Load the paint on the brush and use the angle to move it in as straight a line as you can. If some goes on the ceiling/coving then wipe it off and start that part again. It takes practice and patience but you'll end up with an excellent separation between ceiling and the wall. Don't underestimate how long it takes to mask up a room, this method is quicker too.

My other recommendation is decent trade paint such as Johnstone's trade covaplus vinyl matt.

Let me know if you have any further questions, I've done a load of painting so happy to help you out.
Click to expand...

I agree with this advice.

Masking tape causes more problems than it attempts to solve.
 
Thebug said:
Paint kettle with paint and a bit of water just to thin it a bit helps with cutting in
Click to expand...

Absolutely this, it is significantly easier with the paint thinned slightly and also lessens drag and reduces visible brush strokes. Try to keep the bulk of the paint on the 'underside' of the brush i.e furthest away from the surface you trying to avoid painting
It takes a bit of practice to learn how to manipulate a paint brush, but once you've cracked it you will whizz through and as also said a decent brush makes all the difference
 
If you are painting walls just cut in neatly, tape will be fiddly and time consuming to fit and not actually help that much, plus it can pull off paint creating more work.

If you need low tac tape just use any cheapo tape and de-tac is by sticking it to your jeans a few times to reduce the stick of it. Obviously not that practical if you are using a huge length of it, but if you just need a few short bits it works fine!

Dave
 
Hi go round edge of ceiling cutting in don't worry about getting on the walls i normally have a decent brush width from edge of ceiling once done roll it out then go have a cup of tea!
Then cut in round walls on skirting/frames etc then do tops a good clean "Wet" brush helps i like real bristle but many now are synthetic like Purdeys they do cutting in brushes which have a longer handle with a tapered end to bristles load brush up and push uptowards edge of walls/ceiling bringing it in and go along as straight as can but don't worry if edge ceiling as can snag that later once dry with a fitch.

Sash brushes make great fitchs as flat unless there the round dogs dick types!

If you don't load the brush you won't paint it! but not to much that it's dripping all over.

Make sure give the paint a really good stirring before use.
nylon bristles don't like getting dry so always watch paint build up on the flag so when not in use wrap in a plastic bag or wash out i use either a paint comb or wire brush going downwards towards tip to clean out or bristles snap once dried out.

Dulux trade or one below or Johnstones cova plus are good was mostly all ever used but crown is ok the trade paints have more body and contractor paints is coloured ****!
For a decent job keep out of the habit many have of stabbing at it tryo to get long brush strokes once get the hang of it will enjoy it.

I love the ones esp with gloss dab brush in the tin then wipe most of it off on edge of tin then wonder why gloss work looks so scabby!
Load the brush up don't be afraid! then lay it out/off so smooth!

Remember years back before we had those small gloss rollers was doing a big flat between Kensington and earls court(that Steven Waldorf was shot outside) had to Gloss to bathrooms in white gloss with a 2 1/2" brush.
"Fumey"
If you rolled Emulsion you had to lay it out with brush afterwards also!
 
Tape to cut a ceiling into a wall? Unless you have very low ceilings, a very unsteady hand and a huge colour contrast why would you need it?
 
Do what Adam and Area51 recommend.
Make sure you have good light, get up to eye level, make sure you have thinned the paint with water (unless it's "one coat" stuff) so that it flows better and take your time. Watch a few videos on youtube to see how pros do it.
It doesn't need to be perfect and no one else is going to look at the cutting in as much as you (except me if I can round to your house :-)
 
I’ve spent a lot of hours painting lots of fresh pine architraves and stairs spindle/balustrades

I’ve sanded, primed, filled , sanded again, another prime coat and ready to put on the final satin coats

After seeing other paint jobs in other houses I’ve came to the conclusion I’m trying to do too good of a job and because of that it’s taking too long

Not really sure why I’m posting, I guess it’s just to say have a look around at other paint work and like me you may realise perfection isn’t needed, only you will really notice or care about the finish
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom