Bathroom balls up - actual bonding strength of OB1 sealant / other construction adhesives?

Can't find the original retailer link any longer but it's this one:


Sounds like consensus is that I can't chance my arm with adhesives and I should go through the bedroom behind and make a proper fixing.

Very sensible, goddamnit. What a stupid ******* mistake with all the measuring and planning.
If it helps you feel less stupid I paid someone to make some pipes up which I'm now going to ask him to cut off to make it easier to tile over. Then will need to be made back up again...
 
Is one days work really that big a deal in the bigger scheme of things?

Doing the wall in the room behind is still probably the best part days work when you consider filling, repainting and tea breaks.

It would still be my preferred method rather than trying to get tiles off carefully before rewording and re tiling.

I’d say it defo needs the proper support though for a big vanity like the one linked
 
Just to be clear I understand it - if you use OB1 or some other adhesive you'd then be asking the tile adhesive to do the work right? i.e. the vanity is held onto the tiles and you're hoping the tiles don't come off the wall?

Wouldn't chance that in a million years. Mechanical fixings to the wall please.


Very sensible, goddamnit. What a stupid ******* mistake with all the measuring and planning.
It happens, we have all done it and anyone who says they haven't is lying :) How you then solve the problem is the real fun bit. It's good brain exercise for later DIY challenges!
 
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I've had a think (early morning active brain) and reckon I have an acceptable solution that doesn't involve going into any walls.

As I mentioned, there is wood between the studs for mounting, but it's lower than the position of the factory brackets.

What I'm thinking - and I think people alluded to this above - is that I could add brackets at the correct height and screw them into the vanity lower down, something like:

vNQaufh.jpeg


Combined with lots of OB1 on the sink and vanity, I'd have thought this would be fine?

Just to be clear I understand it - if you use OB1 or some other adhesive you'd then be asking the tile adhesive to do the work right? i.e. the vanity is held onto the tiles and you're hoping the tiles don't come off the wall?
That is correct, the tile adhesive would be taking the load in this situation. I believe the tile adhesive has been very thoroughly applied and could bear the weight though, especially since it would be spread across several tiles.
 
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That is correct, the tile adhesive would be taking the load in this situation. I believe the tile adhesive has been very thoroughly applied and could bear the weight though, especially since it would be spread across several tiles.
Just mechanically fix it. It'll be fine. Your idea of adding brackets at correct height of your wooden blocks and screwing through vanity lower down will be perfect. I'm sure you could even bodge some timber frame inside and fix it across the wall if you really wanted belt and braces.
 
Can't find the original retailer link any longer but it's this one:


Sounds like consensus is that I can't chance my arm with adhesives and I should go through the bedroom behind and make a proper fixing.

Very sensible, goddamnit. What a stupid ******* mistake with all the measuring and planning.
No worries, just wanted to see the mounting points, I've got a very similar but 800 wide basin, the basin has no fixings only sits on the cabinet, certainly with mine I'd have scope to move the cabinet brackets in.
 
If you have a multitool, then you could go through from the room behind by removing a rectangle of the plasterboard, which you should then be able to refit at the end and just fill the gap around the edges. As you say, it’s annoying and a faff, but you’ll know for sure that the sink is securely fitted at the end.
 
Hi all

To hopefully tie this one off, I used the following extra L brackets on each side directly below the factory brackets.

All four of the yellow screws on both sides are into the wooden noggins I placed between studs in the wall for mounting, so hopefully that is easily now strong enough. Not sure why I panicked about opening up walls etc., just didn't think of this.

Thanks for all the help anyway.

ny0Wt3T.jpeg
 
[
... just saying this is a moment force situation , it is the rear top edge fixture that carries the larger/tension pulling away from wall force, as the unit tries to pivot on the bottom compressed fixing,
so if you have a 50kg sink + 20kg foot in the basin centre of mavity 30cm from wall you have 200Newtons.

but ok this guy has 600N on one plasterboard fixing.


could countersink the toggle bolt bolt in the bracket (but how do you avoid dropping the spring if you wanted to change it) ..
you didn't put the toggles(strongest fixing) at the tops of the bracket though - where the force/moment is greatest.
]
 
[
... just saying this is a moment force situation , it is the rear top edge fixture that carries the larger/tension pulling away from wall force, as the unit tries to pivot on the bottom compressed fixing,
so if you have a 50kg sink + 20kg foot in the basin centre of mavity 30cm from wall you have 200Newtons.

but ok this guy has 600N on one plasterboard fixing.



]
Thanks - are you saying you have concerns that what I've done is still insufficient? 8 screws into noggins?
 
CT1 around the perimeter to seal

Some wild old sage on here at some point advisedd I used CT1

It has now been holding up a fence at the place we moved from in multiple storms (trampoline and tables over the fence type) as the physical fixings repeatedly failed.

Might need to knock next door down if at any point the fence needs moved :eek:
 
Thanks - are you saying you have concerns that what I've done is still insufficient? 8 screws into noggins?
It wasn't clear to me at what level of the unit those angle brackets are - near the top, or greater that half way up ? which is where the pull force is;
the white nylon connector is presumably just providing internal structure for the wooden carcass.

I suppose the misalignment of the noggins wasn't large - so near the top then ? ... and the ceramic/comp basin where the intended connections are is also supported by the wooden structure where you added the angles
 
It wasn't clear to me at what level of the unit those angle brackets are - near the top, or greater that half way up ? which is where the pull force is;
the white nylon connector is presumably just providing internal structure for the wooden carcass.

I suppose the misalignment of the noggins wasn't large - so near the top then ? ... and the ceramic/comp basin where the intended connections are is also supported by the wooden structure where you added the angles
The white nylon is the factory bracket that's basically at the very top; the brackets I've added are only ~50mm below them, so also very near the top.

Yes the basin is supported by the wooden vanity carcass and is glued to the vanity with OB1.
 
OK guess it should be fine then - the nylon hadn't looked like man enough for a 50kg basin (if it matched amazon link)
I'd expected the basin to be directly connected to the wall (like a traditional one) as opposed to exclusively using support from the floating cabinet beneath it.
 
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