Best non energy saving lightbulb type?

if that 105watt bulb is like the one i had from greenlamp they are around 6 inchs wide and 14inchs long.

you will almost go blind if you look at it aswell

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Mark A said:
Yep, they are mega bright, I think it said on the box it was equal to 500watt incandescent?
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seriously if you look at the bulb once its warmed up and then look away you get halos for a few minutes after.

you would have to be blind to have one dangling from your ceiling especially considering how big they are

^watcha growing there chum?
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it was an experiment for the chilli growing thread :P
 
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C.R.A.Z.Y said:
As others have said the flickering is inherent to fluorescent lamp technology and is why when installing fluorescent lights in workshops and factorys careful planning is needed. Otherwise you get what's called strobing (Sp?) where machines appear to be stationary when in actual fact they are turned on and moving :eek: :p
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this is the first time i've heard this :confused:
unless you are talking about the old style FL which aren't operated by electronics :)
 
Aod said:
That's actually not the case. Some CFL bulbs flicker at 50Hz just like the long fluorescent strip-lights do. The excited gaseous mix inside the tube only emits when the current is flowing through them in one way, unlike filament bulbs which have no polarity sensitivity.

In addition, some CFL's have noisy inverters which derive the High-Voltage from the mains, which causes higher-frequency flickering (between 200Hz to 5000Hz).

Only really new and quite high-end CFLs are "flicker free" and even then, that's only because they flicker faster than it is possible to detect.

Some people are a lot more sensitive to flickering than others.
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This could explain why the strip lights at work give me headache. Even though I don't actually see the flicker?
 
Energize said:
6800lm/s = 10W of light, you have confirmed what I just said...
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Can you show me how you're working that out as my calculations say very different!

P(W) = ΦV(lm) / η(lm/W)

= 6800/60 = 113.33Watts


dr_volki said:
this is the first time i've heard this :confused:
unless you are talking about the old style FL which aren't operated by electronics :)
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I'm pretty sure that ALL fluorescent lamps have to be controlled by some sort of electronics as they need to generate thousands of volts to get the gas's inside the tubes to strike?!?!?!

The strobing (Sp?) effect was taught to me a few years ago when I was doing my 16th Edition City&Guilds 2330. You can use HighFrequency fluorescent lamps to prevent it but that would probably be expensive!
If the site has 3-phase you could distribute the fluorescent lighting over two phase's to prevent it and I believe another method is to use lead and lag capacitors to phase-shift pairs of fluorescent lamps :cool:
 
PanMaster said:
Lumens aren't a unit of power. Based on what I read recently:

Power = radiant flux x total steradians
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Radiant flux is the total amount of EM radiation, not visible light.

1 lm.s = 1 cd.sr.s = 0.001464 J.s, multiply by 6800 = 9.96 J.s or 9.96W.

C.R.A.Z.Y said:
Can you show me how you're working that out as my calculations say very different!

P(W) = ΦV(lm) / η(lm/W)

= 6800/60 = 113.33Watts
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Clearly a light that uses 105W of power cannot output 113.33W, that breaks the conservation of energy. Energy cannot be created or destroyed.
 
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Halogen bulb, they are slightly lower wattage but plenty bright enough and work like an old fashioned filament bulb, they just have a halogen bulb (a bit like a car headlamp) inside an old style glas envelope.
 
Woden said:
Not that good a job, as its obviously running at 100% and overheating!
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The visual processing centre of the brain is very very sophisticated - It understands that flickering imagery is distracting and reduces clarity of vision, so it filters it out. However, your eyes still react to the flickering with discomfort which is why you are getting the headaches, presumably.

I'm lucky at work, everyone else has to make do with fluorescent strip-lights, but I get a nice 400W Halogen floodlamp (reflected off the low ceiling) to light my desk because I have a requirement for higher quality light.

That, and I just did it and no-one told me not to :D
 
C.R.A.Z.Y said:
Can you show me how you're working that out as my calculations say very different!

P(W) = ΦV(lm) / η(lm/W)

= 6800/60 = 113.33Watts




I'm pretty sure that ALL fluorescent lamps have to be controlled by some sort of electronics as they need to generate thousands of volts to get the gas's inside the tubes to strike?!?!?!

The strobing (Sp?) effect was taught to me a few years ago when I was doing my 16th Edition City&Guilds 2330. You can use HighFrequency fluorescent lamps to prevent it but that would probably be expensive!
If the site has 3-phase you could distribute the fluorescent lighting over two phase's to prevent it and I believe another method is to use lead and lag capacitors to phase-shift pairs of fluorescent lamps :cool:
Click to expand...

i would describe it better if i learned all about this in english but i didn't ;)
the old style FL used a different starter compared to the newer ones. Back in switzerland you could only really buy high frequency FLs so strobing was never really a problem for us. I don't know what these would cost over here though. :)
 
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