Best stuff for getting oil off chain ?

If you keep the chain reasonably clean and lubed

For those of us who live in the real world - wipe the worst off, degrease it, chain cleaner it, dry it & lube it takes too much time! ;)

I can't clean my chain 'reasonably clean' as there's not enough hours in the day (commuter riding 4 times a day, 5 days a week + leisure riding on the weekends). I treat my chains quite harshly - cleaning them only once a week (wipe down, spray with GT85, wipe down until clear-ish & dry-ish, reapply lube) regardless of the british weather. If it's a particularly wet week I will even apply more lube when things start to sound rough (without cleaning first) to get me to the weekend clean. My cassette is usually a horrible black colour for most of the week during wet & dirty british winter weather. My chains may only see a chain cleaner once every 3-4 weeks! My time and riding is more important than their health! :(

Disclaimer: I change my chains more regularly than I should (before fully worn), but at £14 a chain (using SRAM rather than Shimano) I weather that as an 'easy' maintenance cost. I get less than 2000 miles and have been known to get less than 1800 during the winter. Still certainly cheaper than replacing a £45 cassette, or my £250 chainrings (powermeter) more frequently by letting things wear further! :o

I'd say I get through 2, maybe 3 chains a year - rode 5000 miles last year. A cassette generally lasting me over a year (tend to change them once pitting occurs, usually after winter road salts.

You can get a cassette amazingly clean by removing it and scrubbing the individual cogs. I'll tend to do that every 2-3 months, the more regular cleans are with a rag soaked in degreaser threaded and 'shuffled' between the cogs with the cassette still mounted on the freehub (scrubbing the surfaces of the cogs).
 
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I usually rinse it down daily with water after every ride then GT85 it, put on wet/dry lube depending on the season.
At the weekend I use my chain cleaner with degreaser.
I do about 200 miles a month so I have two chains on rotation, swap them at the beginning of the month.
 
that is with the chain still on the bike ?

sounds as though I am unduly paranoid about having degreaser get into bottom bracket / block / rd|fd mech /jockey wheels.

My neighbour uses a ~3l pressurized garden sprayer to help in cleanup ... with diluted muc-off, I believe, which would help target fluid.

edit ... guess i need to watch a few youtube videos .
 
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ok this seemed a reasonable video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sf80DnCgHRQ

I'll maybe get a dummy hub, unless I can think how to contrive one with an old skewer and roller of some kind.
I guess Morgan blue degreaser is not too noxious, given the bare hands, versus swarfega.

The dummy hub is really useful, I bought that same one he's using by Morgan Blue.

You can make your own too if you fancy saving a couple of £

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cCP_A88wAqM

The swarfega stuff isn't noxious either, got some on my arms and they didn't peel or melt
 
A week and a bit later and I'm still working on this damn bike with moments where I've wanted to kick it and just buy a new one

Seems to be some issue with my hub it's no longer smooth spinning so looks like I need to get some more tools and grease so I can dismantle the hub to service it as I might have accidentally degreased the hub :confused: hoping the bearings and cone are okay

Still at least I've got a clean bike and clean disc brakes and perfect indexing, hopefully the hub will be the last thing I need to service and at this rate I'll be able to open my own bicycle repair shop with the knowledge gained and tools I keep buying
 
what's the BB then ?

Had just bought a Shiamno 'sealed' BB-un55 speculatively from wiggle and extractor tool, but had seen video indicating I can probably dismantle old one
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lar7mIMmTRE
despite it being 'sealed' ... have never done that before for a 'sealed' one, but had cleaned and replaced bearings in older type.
(liked the fact that wiggle would authorize a price match with amazon via chat)

... however tuneing the locknuts will be a pain, since it is only when the cranks are on that you can see what is what

edit : chain keeper vid was good - had never thought of using an old ptfe reel
 
Tried following this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PViSlroA1wc because it's the same hub

Ended up being not great and same gritty feeling as before I took it apart and cleaned so I've just gone with the easiest option of taking it to the local bike shop to see if they can do any better. I've probably just done one of the bolts too tight or not enough grease, but better to let the experts have a look
 
I'd put the axle back in the wrong way and tightened the cup screw too tight, still have a little resistance on the free hub part but nothing I can do about that as it's non serviceable.

Managed to get out last night and the bike feels so much better after the deep clean and service, switching from Wolverines to Hybrid travel contact tyres also made it a hell of a lot more speedy and responsive on the gravel/paved surfaces I go over on my current daily route
 
hopefully they did not fleece you -


no oil hole ? maybe that's only on my older freewheel, just run oil through till clean - nothing better than the click of a newly saturated pawl

Nope no way to get at it unfortunately

The bike works better than before I took it all apart and cleaned it though so it's not something I'm going to worry about
 
I find that unless I get the chain absolutely spotless I'm actually worse off trying to do a semi decent job on my chain. Instead I just wipe it down and re-lube these days.

I'm not really sure how this affects wear as I spent the best part of two years using a chain checker from Wiggle that over read chain wear by nearly 0.5% :rolleyes: I seriously doubt I'm getting good mileage out of my chains taking this approach but I don't do big miles and chains are cheap when you have a maximum of 9 speeds (only 8 on the winter machine).
 
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