Block paving a drive

Caporegime
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My front drive is all a bit worn out and looking sad

Had a guy around earlier who did a drive up the road. Looks really good so keen to get similar. Basically block grey paving with charcoal paving at the edges.


How much is the going rate for a 13m x 4m wide ish drive ?


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Just using a basic 50mm thick block paver, over a area 52 metres square, works out at around £19 per sq mtr £988.

Go up to a 60mm or 65mm block paver & the prices rise, add in the cost of sub base, etc, probably 4k.

EDIT: Beat me to the lower figure Macca.
 
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Don't bother!

Block paving may look good not long after its been done, but 10 years down the line it will look nasty no matter how much care you take of it. It's also not design to have vehicles sat on it for long periods of time (car parks are empty overnight) and stones will sink and so on.

I've installed several large car parks work g part time for friends all have to be maintained yearly to improve drainage and re level blocks.
 
Don't bother!

Block paving may look good not long after its been done, but 10 years down the line it will look nasty no matter how much care you take of it. It's also not design to have vehicles sat on it for long periods of time (car parks are empty overnight) and stones will sink and so on.

I've installed several large car parks work g part time for friends all have to be maintained yearly to improve drainage and re level blocks.

You're just admitting to bad workmanship rather than inherent problems with block paving. The right sub base and a quality block will last years but yes you are right some may need lifting and relaying which is a bonus as you can't do that with tarmac which also sinks.
 
You're just admitting to bad workmanship rather than inherent problems with block paving. The right sub base and a quality block will last years but yes you are right some may need lifting and relaying which is a bonus as you can't do that with tarmac which also sinks.

Exactly, skimping on the sub base, & lack of proper compaction is main cause of block paving sinking.

House up the road had block paving done nearly two years ago, barely 100mm MOT1 used, it's like a switchback now.
 
You're just admitting to bad workmanship rather than inherent problems with block paving. The right sub base and a quality block will last years but yes you are right some may need lifting and relaying which is a bonus as you can't do that with tarmac which also sinks.

I agree completely with you. I was working g for a cowboy and have since never worked for him (other than maintaining work he has let go).

How many people will spend the time to investigate how there drive has been built? And if the drive meets standards that are required for it to remain a quality job over a long period?

Blocked drivers are designed to last no longer than 10 years. Ground water movement and rain wash (as well as earth worms) will over time remove the sand base causing sinking of blocks. Tarmac is a whole other ball game and in my opinion should never be used on a drive way, it's designed for moving vehicles not static!

Your better off getting a moulded concrete drive if your looking to get one that will last the next 20 years+.
 
My parents house is in a cul-de-sac and in the last 23 years the block paving has been fine.
DSC03271.jpg


Just needs doing right I guess.
 
We only use 80mm blocks for roadways and areas for fire appliances or refuse wagons, 80mm will come with all the extra excavation needed and it'll be pointlessness putting them down and not beefing up the sub base so more excavation more skips more sub base.

50mm is fine for cars
 
We only use 80mm blocks for roadways and areas for fire appliances or refuse wagons, 80mm will come with all the extra excavation needed and it'll be pointlessness putting them down and not beefing up the sub base so more excavation more skips more sub base.

50mm is fine for cars
I prefer 80 purely because they'll last longer than 50.

That and last time I did block paving we got the blocks for free.
 
Thanks for the advice.

I think he mentioned 8inches of digging. He was also going to add a drain and soak away at the end of the drive.
 
Your looking at 250mm minimum depth, 200mm is skimping it in my opinion.

I have always used 200mm of type 1 hardcore well compacted, laid on geotextile membrane ,will be enough for a sub base, but a lot of people usually lay 150mm sub base, then 60mm - 65mm sand, compacted to 50mm, then the block paver.
 
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Simon my best advice is to see another couple of jobs this contractor has done and even pop in and have a word with the home owners.

Basically as maccapacca has already said, block paving that is regulary maintained can last for more than 10 years and still look good.
A decent jet wash every 12 months and re-sanding and also spraying weedkiller a couple of times will keep it looking good.
Also as you have a lot of trees/bushes next to it, i would reccomend you using a quality block paving sealer like Resi-block.
This is like a clear varnish that is rolled onto the driveway, and it will prevent oil stains, moss, algae etc.. and also preserve the colour of the blocks.
You can get it in a Matte or Gloss finish.

Regarding the excavation, 8 inches deep is plenty for a domestic driveway.
We will lay 5 inches of MOT Type 1, 1 inch of sand and 2 inches for the block paving.
We usually will never have the sand deeper, as we would rather the extra inch using hardcore and not sand, 1 to 1.5 inches is plenty.
Iirc the gross weight for a 50mm block is 5 tonnes.

And 3K is a decent price, we charge £60 per square metre.
But i will dis-agree with maccapacca here ;):p
2 men can lay 52 square metres easily in 1 day lol, in fact 2 professional layers in an open area and lets say a big rectangle eg. a car park with easy access can lay and cut in 100m+ a day

I have been laying block paving/slabs and tarmac for more than 20 years
Oh and don't touch tarmac on that driveway, the green stuff you get off trees, will rot the tarmac within a few years
 
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